Clutch or IRD (or Both)

Ok Next question on the Freelander recommitting (fast becoming rebuild!)


when changing up gear and lifting the clutch up to engage the next gear the car seams to ‘Kangaroo/bounce’ forward a bit in. My first assumption was the clutch need replacing but seeing how involved a job it is on the Freelander I thought I would check that is not a symptom of a worn IRD?


I know my IRD will need replacing (along with the VCU) as it is showing signs of wear, and was seeking advice if it worth replacing just the IRD and seeing if this cures the symptoms?


The Freelander is a 1.8 petrol with 82,000 on the clock and no paperwork showing a clutch change in that time.


Also last question, does the 1.8 use a DM Flywheel? and if so does it need replacing as a mater of course on the 1.8 ( I was always under the impression Diesels where the ones that needed DM flywheel replacement with clutch)


Thank you for all you help as always.


Kind regards,
Angus Redman

Angus-32 said:

car seams to ‘Kangaroo/bounce’ forward a bit in.

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I'd be looking at the lower engine tie bar first. When these fail, it allows the engine to rock quite a lot, which will feel like driveline shunt.

Angus-32 said:

The Freelander is a 1.8 petrol with 82,000 on the clock and no paperwork showing a clutch change in that time

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It should last over 100k miles.

Angus-32 said:

Also last question, does the 1.8 use a DM Flywheel? and if so does it need replacing as a mater of course on the 1.8 ( I was always under the impression Diesels where the ones that needed DM flywheel replacement with clutch)

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No DMF on the 1.8 K, just the TD4 has a DMF.

Once again thank you for your help Nodge68,

I will look this over first

I'm pretty sure problems with a worn lower tie bar will be magnified without the damping effect of the prop shaft being attached.

I'd also be lubricating the clutch release arm as it goes through the bell housing as it may be getting stuck and jumping back so the clutch isn't being engaged smoothly.

Hi GrumpyGel,
That make a lot of senses, I will replace the bush and see if it improves things, certainly looks a lot better job than changing the clutch!

thank you

Angus-32 said:

Hi GrumpyGel,
That make a lot of senses, I will replace the bush and see if it improves things, certainly looks a lot better job than changing the clutch!

thank you

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Yeh, its a piece of p*** to change that tie bar - just the 2 easy access bolts. I have a spare brand new one if you're passing

Very kind offer but I don't think shed make it to my local town, never mind the 12,000 mile trip to NZ ;-)

P.S the Pacific might slight exceed the Freelanders wading depth to!

GrumpyGel said:

I'm pretty sure problems with a worn lower tie bar will be magnified without the damping effect of the prop shaft being attached.

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They are indeed. The CV joint on the front of the prop acts like a variable friction damper, the more torque is applied through the propshafts, the more the damping affect will be. Removing the props can make a worn lower tie bar feel like it's just failed, as the CV does a huge amount of damping on the power unit.

Hi Nodge68 & GrumpGal,

Just a quick question as you have both been so helpful.

If replacing the clutch is it easer to simply lift the ending out? looks more fun than opening a hold day lying on the floor.

Kind regards,
Angus Redman

This might explain what's involved. As far as I remember, this guy's a mobile mechanic replacing the clutch on the customer's drive, so probably closer to how you would be doing it than a garage video where a lift would be used.

Angus-32 said:

If replacing the clutch is it easer to simply lift the ending out? looks more fun than opening a hold day lying on the floor.

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It's more work to remove the whole power unit as one, as you still have to remove the IRD and gearbox, once its out the vehicle. Oh you also need a lift, as the complete power unit goes out the bottom.

If it needs a clutch, then just to what's necessary to remove the box.