Discovery 2 TD5 fuel consumption question

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Cotswolds
Hi all!

I’m new to registering to landy zone so I dunno if I’ve done this right but here it goes!
I’ve got a 2000 Discovery 2 TD5 on 163000 miles, not so long ago I was doing around 600-620 miles to a tank about 32 MPG but then about mid way October last year it just all of a sudden dropped and started doing 500 to a tank about 24 mpg, it’s not my right foot as I can be miss daisy all day long
I’ve replaced the MAF sensor as it was faulty, EGR deLeted before all this anyway, new second hand intercooler, tried new MAP sensor nothing; ran fuel cleaner through and seemed to make a slight difference?
Anybody got any ideas as it’s just click from 32 to 24? I’m thinking maybe injector wear and sticking what’s everybody else’s prior experience and knowledge??
TIA
Cheers
 
I have a 2003 td5 manual in really great condition and never had below 28 mpg (mixed driving condition). Are you sure that you had 32 mpg before? Have you checked it several times?
I usually refill the car on the same way and on the same petrol station (full, one click on the pistol) and calculate the mpg that way.
 
Assuming you're using genuine or at least VDO / Bosch for the MAF and MAP, the other sensors that affect fueling strategy are the ambient pressure sensor, the coolant temperature sensor and the fuel temperature sensor. Also you don't say if performance is impacted but if yours is a manual, a slipping clutch can also affect fuel economy.
 
I have a 2003 td5 manual in really great condition and never had below 28 mpg (mixed driving condition). Are you sure that you had 32 mpg before? Have you checked it several times?
I usually refill the car on the same way and on the same petrol station (full, one click on the pistol) and calculate the mpg that way.
Yes bid it obviously verified slightly when I went greenlaning but usually I was getting about 620 miles to a tank which is five or take a couple 88-92 litres or there abouts and what I was putting in was about 89 litres each time which works out between 31-32 mpg?
 
Assuming you're using genuine or at least VDO / Bosch for the MAF and MAP, the other sensors that affect fueling strategy are the ambient pressure sensor, the coolant temperature sensor and the fuel temperature sensor. Also you don't say if performance is impacted but if yours is a manual, a slipping clutch can also affect fuel economy.
Well I ran it for two fuel tanks worth on a new proven good genuine LR maf sensor and MAP sensor and no difference, oh ok so I see I’ll check them later, no performance doesn’t seem to be affected at all still running ok, and no the clutch doesn’t slip I’ve been before now towing (not usually) up a steep hill and no clutch slip.
Cheers
 
Didnt you change the tyres prior of this consumption increasement? when was the air filter changed ?
how is that? :confused:
No tyres were still the same general grabbers AT air filter is clean and brand new even tried a Kone to see if it made a difference and no;
Arh I managed to get hold of a good secondhand intercooler from a friend and had it pressure tested for good measure as i wasn’t paying the price for a new one
 
Well I ran it for two fuel tanks worth on a new proven good genuine LR maf sensor and MAP sensor and no difference, oh ok so I see I’ll check them later, no performance doesn’t seem to be affected at all still running ok, and no the clutch doesn’t slip I’ve been before now towing (not usually) up a steep hill and no clutch slip.
Cheers
And btw it’s running a VDO MAF sensor and is reading fine on snap on box
 
Next time after a longer drive touch around all the wheels and the handbrake drum, if you feel hotter than normal anywhere it means it's stuck and that's the reason for higher consumption
You mean for binding callipers? Well calliper service is on the list of jobs but they all seem to spin freely when up in the air like can’t feel any if not much drag
 
Cast your mind back to October last year when you say you first noticed the 'problem'. Was there anything you did/altered then that could have caused it.
Well I serviced it, run genuine oil filters, John Deere fully synthetic 0w-40, and Mayle fuel filters, in addition I changed the injector harness and rocker cover gasket, I’ve since changed the injector harness to a genuine LR one thinking it might be that but no, apart from that she hasn’t been adjusted or changed from memory
 
:confused: That oil is definitely not recommended for a Td5
Well for one it provides better protection on start up, if you go through the oil specifications JD oil has more additives to help provide more protection on start up, furthermore, the up to temperature viscosity is correct as to LR recommendations. Also it’s still fully synthetic so still have that.
Also I find my engine runs cleaner for longer on this oil compared to normal 5w-40 Castrol magnetic or something can’t remember what they call it.
Finally it’s free so ‍♂️
 
Well for one it provides better protection on start up, if you go through the oil specifications JD oil has more additives to help provide more protection on start up, furthermore, the up to temperature viscosity is correct as to LR recommendations. Also it’s still fully synthetic so still have that.
Also I find my engine runs cleaner for longer on this oil compared to normal 5w-40 Castrol magnetic or something can’t remember what they call it.
Finally it’s free so ‍♂️

Free always wins, think I ran my td5 on 10/40 syn, as it was free, did 50k in that machine.
 
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