Best Bolts for the Landy, 8.8 or other?

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NightShadow91

Active Member
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111
Location
UK
Very quick question,m sure it's been asked and answered many times.
I know grade 8 or 8.8 bolts are the best for automotive as they bend or warp as opposed to shear or snap like A2 or A4. I have replace a few bolts with A4-80 here and there, mainly on anti roll bar to chassis mount and the side and rear steps. Steps aren't ever going to be load bearing in that respect, or at least to the shearing degree, but for anti corrosion, ideal. Unless should I change the anti roll bar a4-80 back to 8.8?

I have tons of A4 and A2 and also lots of 8.8 bolts. 8.8 makes more sense, but they corrode like buggery. So my question is, would yellow zinc plated 8.8 grade bolts be better for both the strength and also a tad more weather proof?

Otherwise I can just get a load of 8.8 and take them to my coaters and get the ral 9005 black coated.

Thanks in advance.
 
Very quick question,m sure it's been asked and answered many times.
I know grade 8 or 8.8 bolts are the best for automotive as they bend or warp as opposed to shear or snap like A2 or A4. I have replace a few bolts with A4-80 here and there, mainly on anti roll bar to chassis mount and the side and rear steps. Steps aren't ever going to be load bearing in that respect, or at least to the shearing degree, but for anti corrosion, ideal. Unless should I change the anti roll bar a4-80 back to 8.8?

I have tons of A4 and A2 and also lots of 8.8 bolts. 8.8 makes more sense, but they corrode like buggery. So my question is, would yellow zinc plated 8.8 grade bolts be better for both the strength and also a tad more weather proof?

Otherwise I can just get a load of 8.8 and take them to my coaters and get the ral 9005 black coated.

Thanks in advance.

A4-80 is the equivalent of 8.8. So any 8.8 bolts “can” be replaced with A4-80. When I done my rebuild, I replaced every thing that was mild steel with A4-80.
 
Thats a bit good using stainless everywhere.
I just struggle when its time to unbolt things because of a bit of corrosion.
Don't think the Landy needs blinging but there are some places where a s/s bolt would be better.
8.8 = 800N/mm2 tensile strength with a yield point at 80% of that (640N/mm2)
The s/s 80 is presumably the same but I dont use them.
 
Don't get too excited by stainless steel, it needs Oxygen to 'work' and so when it's in a damp airless hole it's still going to rust. It's also prone to 'galling' which means that the threads get a roughness that makes them harder to do up and undo once they've been used a bit. Granted, the outside will always look better though, and the rust won't be as bad as other steels.
 
Don't get too excited by stainless steel, it needs Oxygen to 'work' and so when it's in a damp airless hole it's still going to rust. It's also prone to 'galling' which means that the threads get a roughness that makes them harder to do up and undo once they've been used a bit. Granted, the outside will always look better though, and the rust won't be as bad as other steels.

I have used an anti gall and anti corrosion paste on assembly. A2 will still rust, but A4 is “marine grade” and won’t rust.
 
I have used an anti gall and anti corrosion paste on assembly. A2 will still rust, but A4 is “marine grade” and won’t rust.

A4 rusts in the holes in me boat... it's good, but it ain't perfect! Anti gall paste is a vv good idea though. I had some horribly galled nuts to move at the weekend and was really surprised that the 20/50 I had in the oil can improved it enormously. I didn't expect that.
 
Thats a bit good using stainless everywhere.
I just struggle when its time to unbolt things because of a bit of corrosion.
Don't think the Landy needs blinging but there are some places where a s/s bolt would be better.
8.8 = 800N/mm2 tensile strength with a yield point at 80% of that (640N/mm2)
The s/s 80 is presumably the same but I dont use them.
Agreed, a little overkill in parts, but I had so many knocking about, can't use them for much else. Ta for the info.
 
Don't get too excited by stainless steel, it needs Oxygen to 'work' and so when it's in a damp airless hole it's still going to rust. It's also prone to 'galling' which means that the threads get a roughness that makes them harder to do up and undo once they've been used a bit. Granted, the outside will always look better though, and the rust won't be as bad as other steels.
Yeh I heard that, in the areas I used A4-80 I used A2-70 nylock nuts as I read this helps prevent the 'galling' effect. Whether that's true or not, no idea.
 
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