kill switch or not

RangeRoller dt · Mar 5, 2019

Voltage regulator can go on alternator too, over charges battery and cooks it. Never holds/discharges properly after that. Also belt needs to hold it firmly and bearings should run smoothly

Datatek · Mar 5, 2019

Robthebob said:
before start 12.5v
tick over 14.7
at 1000rpm 14.20
with full load lights ect 13.7

With the engine running, it should never drop to 13.7 volts, 14.2 minimum but more like 14.7 volts.

Datatek · Mar 5, 2019

Grrrrrr said:
That's with a decent battery? 14.7V will cook standard lead. Will need to be calcium too.
At 2000 rpm with full load on it should sit at the set-point which sounds like 14.7V for yours. 12.5V is low starting point for a RR.

You would be hard pushed to find any automotive battery that is not lead calcium so no need to worry about cooking the battery.

Grrrrrr · Mar 5, 2019

Datatek said:
With the engine running, it should never drop to 13.7 volts, 14.2 minimum but more like 14.7 volts.

Unless the battery really is fecked and pulling it down!

Datatek · Mar 5, 2019

Grrrrrr said:
Unless the battery really is fecked and pulling it down!

It would never start the car if it was that bad nor get to 14.7 at idle. A duff diode in the alternator diode pack could account for the drain and under charging, but full load at 1000 rpm is not going to give a true reading.

Jedd · Mar 5, 2019

just done a battery check, was down this morning 11.84.
cranking 9.97.
tick over 14. 18
1000rpm 14. 19
under load 14. 11

Grrrrrr · Mar 5, 2019

Robthebob said:
just done a battery check, was down this morning 11.84.
cranking 9.97.
tick over 14. 18
1000rpm 14. 19
under load 14. 11

It won't like 11.84V before it has even tried to start!

14.2V sounds a little low but might be OK for your alternator. They're all around 14.2V at least. It'll should charge the battery at that.

Odd that you had 14.7V the other day though. Seems a bit inconsistent.

brianp38dse · Mar 5, 2019

here`s a bit from the workshop manual looks like it should be 14.5v
https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-a/charging_and_starting/description/alternator/

Jedd · Mar 5, 2019

Thanks guys, fitting final stage resistor tomorrow that will be one job out the way and go someway to reduce drain, then I think the alternator could be suspect maybe draw back, is there anyway I can check to see if alternator is drawing power back.

Grrrrrr · Mar 5, 2019

Robthebob said:
Thanks guys, fitting final stage resistor tomorrow that will be one job out the way and go someway to reduce drain, then I think the alternator could be suspect maybe draw back, is there anyway I can check to see if alternator is drawing power back.

Oddly enough, that might cause battery drain! Essentially some systems that should be dead will have power.

Someone whizzy on electrics like @Datatek required. All I know is that the alternator creates alternating current (hence the name) and it then has diodes to make it the direct current the car requires. I'm guessing it has a few coils and maybe 1 diode per coil? So if only 1 fails you get a mix of AC/DC? Don't know. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along soon.

Datatek · Mar 5, 2019

Robthebob said:
Thanks guys, fitting final stage resistor tomorrow that will be one job out the way and go someway to reduce drain, then I think the alternator could be suspect maybe draw back, is there anyway I can check to see if alternator is drawing power back.

Disconnect the main power cable from the alternator, ( you may need to disconnect the battery first for safety), put an ammeter between the cable and the alternator stud, with the battery reconnected the reading should be near zero.
the alternator generates 3 phase AC, there are 2 diodes per phase plus an extra one for exitation.

Jedd · Mar 5, 2019

Grrrrrr said:
Oddly enough, that might cause battery drain! Essentially some systems that should be dead will have power.

Someone whizzy on electrics like @Datatek required. All I know is that the alternator creates alternating current (hence the name) and it then has diodes to make it the direct current the car requires. I'm guessing it has a few coils and maybe 1 diode per coil? So if only 1 fails you get a mix of AC/DC? Don't know. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along soon.

sounds a possibility that I'm losing some back through the alternator as I have done amp test a cross the fuses 2 show a pull that's the the alarm system 1 shows small pull to steering wheel adjustment another to the heaters, but when I add up I'm still losing 110mp, so that's must be alternator.

Jedd · Mar 5, 2019

Datatek said:
Disconnect the main power cable from the alternator, ( you may need to disconnect the battery first for safety), put an ammeter between the cable and the alternator stud, with the battery reconnected the reading should be near zero.
the alternator generates 3 phase AC, there are 2 diodes per phase plus an extra one for exitation.

thank you datatek that's my second job tomorrow, getting somewhere now thanks

Jedd · Mar 5, 2019

Robthebob said:
thank you datatek that's my second job tomorrow, getting somewhere now thanks

so do i connect the multimeter an set to amps for this test.

Datatek · Mar 5, 2019

Robthebob said:
so do i connect the multimeter an set to amps for this test.

Yes, set to 1000ma for starters, if no reading go down to 200ma, if no reading, there is no drain.

Jedd · Mar 5, 2019

Datatek said:
Yes, set to 1000ma for starters, if no reading go down to 200ma, if no reading, there is no drain.

great stuff , hopefully I can get to the bottom of this, just for reference fuse 12 in hand book says heater blower and heated seat, but it also does all controls on centre console ie, heated front and rear windows all heat settings.

Tricky of York · Mar 5, 2019

Hi Rob, You have a long thread here and plenty of good ideas to follow through. I fitted a "start stop" battery on my 4.2 on advise from my local independent LR specialist, they have found many of the power loss issues seam to be cured with these batteries.
Good luck and hopefully, you will get this sorted soon but when you do don't forget to keep the moisture out of the cabin it really makes a difference.
Tricky.

Jedd · Mar 5, 2019

Tricky of York said:
Hi Rob, You have a long thread here and plenty of good ideas to follow through. I fitted a "start stop" battery on my 4.2 on advise from my local independent LR specialist, they have found many of the power loss issues seam to be cured with these batteries.
Good luck and hopefully, you will get this sorted soon but when you do don't forget to keep the moisture out of the cabin it really makes a difference.
Tricky.

Hi Tricky, yes it's got quite long thread that's probably because it's a problem with the L322 and to me it's a very new thing, I will get to the bottom of this, I have had alot of feed back and some very good advice, they are good lads on here very helpful. Rob

brianp38dse · Mar 6, 2019

Robthebob said:
Hi Tricky, yes it's got quite long thread that's probably because it's a problem with the L322 and to me it's a very new thing, I will get to the bottom of this, I have had alot of feed back and some very good advice, they are good lads on here very helpful. Rob

Don't forget the lasses we have quite a few on here.

Datatek · Mar 6, 2019

Tricky of York said:
Hi Rob, You have a long thread here and plenty of good ideas to follow through. I fitted a "start stop" battery on my 4.2 on advise from my local independent LR specialist, they have found many of the power loss issues seam to be cured with these batteries.
Good luck and hopefully, you will get this sorted soon but when you do don't forget to keep the moisture out of the cabin it really makes a difference.
Tricky.

You need to look at the charging requirements before fitting a Stop/Start battery. A standard battery of the appropriate size does the job, better to fix problems than try to mask them.

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