kill switch or not
- Thread starter Jedd
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Datatek
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Do a lot of short runs and the battery never gets fully charged, plus if you have a drain it will be going very low. Lead Calcium batteries die quickly if kept in a low state of charge, even quicker if allowed to go completely flat. Price of the battery means nothing these days, often you are just paying a premium for a brand name stuck on a battery that came from the same factory as a cheaper one. I have two fairly new Varta batteries that do not like cold weather.
Datatek
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Sorry I do not, but I would say it should not be much more than the 30ma of the P38, maybe 50/60ma, although it takes longer to drop. There have been posts about it, Saint V8 would know for sure, I steer clear of the L322
brianp38dse
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Robthebob is your motor an l322 vogue as the vogue takes a bigger battery than the other models and is often specced the wrong size by the motor factors, it should only just fit we are talking almost shoehorned in, Goldrover had this very problem over a few years and different battery's till someone twigged, it wont sort the drain but having the right battery has got to be better.
Datatek
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A bigger battery will cope better with the drain.
Hi Brian, yes it's an L322 td6 3-0 BMW m57, when I put this battery on from new never had an issues until the cold got it completely dead, charged it for two days up to full, 5 days later flat, so did a amp check at its worst with the car fully awake peaked at 6amps then quickly dropped to 1.5amp then after a fuse check got it down to 0.16amp , but now I'm at a lose as this is to high , can't find any other drain.
RangeRoller dt
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Investigate now, the difference will be easier to spot than after a new one is fitted.
You will do cheaper than £150, but chasing shadows will cost more. Dying battery's will do that.
Check this out
Someone did a detailed thread on here on how to check battery drop testing, be damned if I can find it for you
You will do cheaper than £150, but chasing shadows will cost more. Dying battery's will do that.
Check this out
Someone did a detailed thread on here on how to check battery drop testing, be damned if I can find it for you
yes still got to find the source of it, that would just mask the problem do you not think, wish a big battery would solve it.
yes your right it's got to be sorted now or its going come back and bite me in the ass
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Just out of interest, what volts do you get across the battery with engine running?
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That's with a decent battery? 14.7V will cook standard lead. Will need to be calcium too.
At 2000 rpm with full load on it should sit at the set-point which sounds like 14.7V for yours. 12.5V is low starting point for a RR.
ukadamwest
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Can you not just run an extension lead and if anyone complains just tell them it's electric and you're charging it to save the environment
yes I could but you know what they say were there is blame there's a claim.
after 2 days at trickle charge it sits at 12.7v
brianp38dse
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Looks like your alternator is not making the grade, you should have more than 13.7 full load, I believe it should be more like 14.8- 15.8v
others should know more.
others should know more.
I will check again tomorrow, I did only run up to 1000rpm, been told I should have run it at 2000rpm.
