kill switch or not

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Jedd

Jedd

Active Member
Posts
301
Location
Leek
I'm about to fit an isolator too the negative side on my L322, what are your thoughts on doing this, one member says that it could cause problems, do I or do I not that is the question.
 
Not to sure but I think you would effect the computer if any static charge is near to cause a grounding as the positive would react. Could be way off beam here and I'm ready to be shot down in flames. That why they prefer both to be disconnected when doing any work for period of time. Nothing wrong with positive being isolated as grounding stays active but the computer becomes inert I think. Please feel free to slap the back of my bonce.
 
I wouldn't. what are you trying to solve with doing it ?

from FFRR wiki the disconnect and reconnect procedure... a battery isolator wont be doing this....

battery dis-connection procedure
DISCONNECTION:

Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
Ensure the alarm is disabled.
Wait at least 2 minutes ( I gave it 5) for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Guage
Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
Now wait 10 minutes ( I gave it 20) for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
Battery disconnected!



RECONNECTION:

Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
Reconnect the �jump lead� cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
Reconnect the multiplug.
Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
 
thanks for the advise, the problem I have I don't use the rr very much only once or twice a week that gives battery problems.
 
Robthebob said:
thanks for the advise, the problem I have I don't use the rr very much only once or twice a week that gives battery problems.
Click to expand...

get a solar battery conditioner .. personally I have a couple of CTEK 5.0's and use those to keep batteries in condition
 
If it was a Defender I would say yes. The L322 is funny about losing power. Think your supposed to change battery's certain way as not to let it go without - like a kill switch would do. I may be wrong but personally couldn't stand resetting the radio/windows everytime I got in my P38.
 
thanks guys think by what your all saying it's not a good idea, shall have to dig deep into what could be causing the issues.
 
ukadamwest said:
I wouldn't. what are you trying to solve with doing it ?

from FFRR wiki the disconnect and reconnect procedure... a battery isolator wont be doing this....

battery dis-connection procedure
DISCONNECTION:

Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
Ensure the alarm is disabled.
Wait at least 2 minutes ( I gave it 5) for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Guage
Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
Now wait 10 minutes ( I gave it 20) for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
Battery disconnected!



RECONNECTION:

Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
Reconnect the �jump lead� cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
Reconnect the multiplug.
Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
Click to expand...
so do you use the same for battery charging as you would to jump start thanks
 
well I have a spare 100A/H battery, so if I do need a jump start I can use a battery rather than twaddle around juggling cars to get jump leads on.

however.... with a couple of C-Teks I haven't needed to jump start for a while. if its not been used for a couple weeks I throw it on a CTEK I have the comfort lead fitted to all my cars so its just plug in and leave, no battery compartments to open. the main battery on the cayenne sits under the passenger seat and its a ball ache to get to
 
Trickle charger will work fine. It seems daunting at start but if you have something draining your battery it is best to find it first as last and sort the problem than tackle the effect.

How old is your battery now? L322 need tip top battery, when they start to age they can start to play up even though they seem okay
 
On the l322 does it not also have a pyrotechnic charge on the positive cable that blows up if heavy impact, hence some off the disconnection procedure.
 
Robthebob said:
thanks for the advise, the problem I have I don't use the rr very much only once or twice a week that gives battery problems.
Click to expand...
I normally use mine less than that, and with the coarrect battery there are no issues. In fact I can now leave her for weeks at a time with no issues.
Is it more a case of little use and very short journeys?
 
Don't fit an isolator to the L322.

Also be careful with the Solar panels, make sure you buy one with enough capacity, most aren't even strong enough to overcome the normal static drain off of the computers and jazz ;)

Ctek gets my vote.
 
ukadamwest said:
I wouldn't. what are you trying to solve with doing it ?

from FFRR wiki the disconnect and reconnect procedure... a battery isolator wont be doing this....

battery dis-connection procedure
DISCONNECTION:

Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
Ensure the alarm is disabled.
Wait at least 2 minutes ( I gave it 5) for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Guage
Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
Now wait 10 minutes ( I gave it 20) for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
Battery disconnected!



RECONNECTION:

Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
Reconnect the �jump lead� cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
Reconnect the multiplug.
Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
Click to expand...
ukadamwest said:
I wouldn't. what are you trying to solve with doing it ?

from FFRR wiki the disconnect and reconnect procedure... a battery isolator wont be doing this....

battery dis-connection procedure
DISCONNECTION:

Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
Ensure the alarm is disabled.
Wait at least 2 minutes ( I gave it 5) for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Guage
Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
Now wait 10 minutes ( I gave it 20) for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
Battery disconnected!



RECONNECTION:

Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
Reconnect the �jump lead� cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
Reconnect the multiplug.
Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
Click to expand...
RangeRoller dt said:
Trickle charger will work fine. It seems daunting at start but if you have something draining your battery it is best to find it first as last and sort the problem than tackle the effect.

How old is your battery now? L322 need tip top battery, when they start to age they can start to play up even though they seem okay
Click to expand...
it's 8 months 100amph I did a metre check it's pulling0.16amp when at sleep
 
gold rover said:
I normally use mine less than that, and with the coarrect battery there are no issues. In fact I can now leave her for weeks at a time with no issues.
Is it more a case of little use and very short journeys?
Click to expand...
yes little use hence why I was thinking of a kill switch, but not anymore thanks for the info
 
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