P38 for off roading

Hi. Just after a little advice.
I’m looking to buy a P38 for the purpose of green laning / off roading. I have previously owned a Discovery 300tdi, used if off road for a number of years, eventually rot set in and I became fed up with welding it every year for the MOT. So I’m now looking for another off roader. I like the look of the P38’s and hear they are rather good off road. I’m looking a doing some green laning, not interested on wading up to the windscreen, and some pay and play days.
Just need some advice form the experienced.
Which engine would be best, Petrol / diesel?
If diesel, manual or auto?
I guess a post 1999 with full traction control would be a benefit?
I’m not looking at spending huge amounts of money as it will be used as a workhorse. Also not worried about the complexity of the Range Rover, I own a Touareg 5.0l V10 tdi, can’t get more complex than that monster.
Any advice will be very much appreciated.

Diesel will handle the wet stuff better.....

Petrol sounds better and got more grunt....

Diesel is better with the auto box......

Petrol sounds better......

Diesel costs less to run - unless petrol is LPG'd

Petrol sounds better......

A Touareg is a drop in the ocean compared with the diva fits Range Rovers can throw for no reason and with no obvious solution.....

Petrol sounds better.....

Petrol sounds better it is then!!!!
Any preference over the BMW 4.0 or the Rover 4.6? Only ever owned a 2000 4.0 SE some years ago.

Both the P38 petrols are Rover, and both luverly V8s.
Ideally suited to wading (Lie), as they are derived from a Buick marine engine.

myfirstl322 said:

Both the P38 petrols are Rover, and both luverly V8s.

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Apologies, I was thinking of the diesel.

Well stop it, you only get one life.

Point taken.
Seriously though, 4.0 or 4.6?

They're all fine engines, even the Diesel.

If V8 is tempting for you then all I know is that the 4.0 is probably the safer bet because it doesn't suffer liner issues.

If you decide diesel, then there is a vacancy at the moment for a fresh timing chain thread.

Saint or others is who you should listen to really.

4.0 can and does suffer from liner issues.
There is a theory that as it isn't as heavily stressed as the 4.6 that it doesn't suffer as badly from liner issues.
I have a 4.0 and whilst it's not a sports car, it cruises comfortably at 80mph and won't be phased by the occasional foray North of 3 figures. So my bet would be on the safe money of the 4.0

Dylan Banachowicz said:

Apologies, I was thinking of the diesel.

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Diesel only comes in 1 flavour, 2.5. I'd go 4.6 with LPG if you can find one. Diesel auto is a tad sluggish. The diesel manual (that I have) is OK but no racer. Yes, you want the 4W traction control from 99 onwards. Even then though it isn't as good as having diff-locks, particularly in mud. The traction control works by braking the spinning wheels so you lose momentum. You can get airlockers from Ashcrofts for about £750 per axle. Obviously tyres make a big difference.

Neither car likes water although you can get a snorkel. If you do go wading make sure all your door seals and grommets are good because the brain for the car is under the driver's seat. Get that wet and you'll be waiting for a tow.

Be aware it will cost more than a Defender of Disco to run. Best stick a grand aside ready for the inevitable.

the 4.6 is brilliant off road

Definitely get a v8

as said above ya only live once

I would recommend a V8 or if you are stuck a V8 and as a last resort a V8

As the P38 isn't a sheep in wolf's clothing, I wonder if anyone has shoved a Cummins diseasel in there?

And yes.... always get a V8.

I brought a 4.0 v8 petrol by accident a while back and used it for exactly the same purpose, very capable off road even totaly standard, very comfy on and off road.

People who know these vehicles inside out have told me many times that the 4.0 is much more reliable as mentiond erlier its less stressed.

DO put good TALL, THIN, AT OR MT tyres on it

I have often waded mine (petrol) over the bonnet for short time and amazingly it didnt hinder it at all, never had any issues as a result (might be more luck that i never drowned it) but they are not afraid if getting wet by any means.

DONT underestimate the cost of running the petrols, mine did 16mpg on a good day! Sounded great though.

Dont worry to much about the traction controll, mine didnt have it just the centre diff and i never missed it, decent tyres are all it realy needs unless your going realy serious, in that case air lockers are the order if the day.

Only retired mine as mot repairs added up to more than a new truck. I miss it!.

Hi and thanks for all your input.

Looks like I will be looking for a V8, not worried about running cost as this will be a third vehicle maninly used for off road and carrying tools, or as my wife would say, carrying me!

I did have a 1999 V8 4.0 some 10 years ago but didn’t keep it long due to personal circumstances. Am I right in understanding that because the Range Rover was classed as a prestigious veichle, Land Rover paid more attention to under chassis and body rust prevention? I vaugely remember the V8 I had looked very well sealed underneath, but that may have been the down to the previous owner. Any known areas to look for when buying?

Also with regards to tyres, I will be looking at putting a 2” suspension lift kit on, I would like to keep the air ride, what modifications and size tyres would be recommended for the Range Rover? I don’t particularly want to carry out any body modifications / arch trimming to accommodate larger wheels.

One other thing, is there any recommendations on either the Bosch or the Rover engine management system?

Thank you all for your time.

The P38 is well known for being the most rust proof of all Land Rovers built pretty much to date!!

Pay attention to the rear tailgate lower portion as this can rot out, along with the rear end of the chassis...but in general chassis wise they are built proof - it is the electrics that are the achilles heel - along with the liners obvs.

The THOR (Bosch) engines are the better and more grunty of the two units and is preferred. But a GEMS will chugg along nicely in any case.

As for lifting, it is possible to fit spacers to above or below the air bag fixing points to attain lift, and you'll need to source cranked radius arms and also elongate the EAS height sensors....all is possible with time, money and space.

Yea chassis are pritty bomb proof, as said just tailgate and sometimes bottom of doors, my mechanic sais put a 200tdi in a p38 and it will go for ever.

I had 235 85 16 MT in mine, was on springs not air but set to the highest std ride height. No rubbing and could get full articulation. This size was very good off road and a little loose on road.

Few other things;
Its very common for AC to not work and its a very involved job to fix apparently, most people dont bother.

Also check cats in exhaust before buying, there is a way of checking by tapping and listening for a rattle i think or something like that, google will probs explain more.

A saggy headlinig is not a simple thing to fix in my experiance.

90jc said:

Few other things;
Its very common for AC to not work and its a very involved job to fix apparently, most people dont bother.

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That isn't true. 9 times out of ten it is the condenser in front of the rad that leaks. Couple of hours to replace at £100 and then get it recharged. I wouldn't be without mine. My thermostatic expansion valve failed on mine too but that's another quick (and cheap) fix as it just bolts to the bulkhead. Haven't heard of anyone else on here with that though.

90jc said:

A saggy headlinig is not a simple thing to fix in my experiance.

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Dead simple. Follow Dopey's guide in the Technical section. A lazy afternoon's work and not unpleasant. Martrim do a kit for around £70 if you don't want to source all the bits independently. Once you've done it you'll be kicking yourself for not doing it earlier. That said, leave it till it is hanging off because then it is quicker and easier to get the bits that are still stuck off for the replacement.

I ran 235 winter tyres on mine for a while on 7J rims. Steering was a bit lighter but didn't notice much else. Grabber AT3 are a little noisier at motorway speeds but very capable all rounder.

Grrrrrr said:

That isn't true.

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Fair nuff, was just going from what my tame landy mechanic told me when i looked at getting mine fixed, he said it was a fan that had broken of its shaft or seased or something like that, said i would need to remove half the dash to get to it, said part was cheap though, also every p38 i have been in the A/C hasnt worked.
I have very little patiance for luxuries such as A/C and interior trim so in my opinion if it takes day to sort it its a long crappy job. always have a long list of more essential things to do first.
But cheers, good to know though for future