Clutch bites at bottom of travel, what next?

Hi, guys and girls.

My son has just taken ownership of at very tidy 200Tdi (1993) with 2 previous owners and lots of history, however the clutch engages just off the floor (does not drag or slip) and was wondering what to do next?

Its done 100,000 miles and towed caravans occasionally, but can't see in the history if the clutch has ever been changed.
Is it just a case of leave it, adjustment or bleed it or will we need to prepare for a clutch change (we intend to tow a glider so its going to need to be reliable!). Cheers

Alex's Dad said:

Hi, guys and girls.

My son has just taken ownership of at very tidy 200Tdi (1993) with 2 previous owners and lots of history, however the clutch engages just off the floor (does not drag or slip) and was wondering what to do next?

Its done 100,000 miles and towed caravans occasionally, but can't see in the history if the clutch has ever been changed.
Is it just a case of leave it, adjustment or bleed it or will we need to prepare for a clutch change (we intend to tow a glider so its going to need to be reliable!). Cheers

Click to expand...

You can try bleeding, and check adjustment of master cylinder pushrod.
And check that the slave pushrod isn't going through the arm.
If not, probably a new clutch.

Its defo a hydraulic kind of problem, any leaking fluid? Was it doing this during the test drive?

nobber said:

Its defo a hydraulic kind of problem, any leaking fluid? Was it doing this during the test drive?

Click to expand...

Or massive wear in the spring fingers.

Hi,
In that order or should I look at the slave pushrod first then try adjusting the master cylinder pushrod and contemplate changing the clutch when the weather is nicer!
As I mentioned its not slipping yet so big jobs can wait!

It is possible to adjust the clutch pedal position as mentioned above, worth checking if the clutch works OK apart from the pedal engagement being right at the bottom of its travel.
Also l had exactly the same symptoms when the hydraulics needed bleeding.

Alex's Dad said:

Hi,
In that order or should I look at the slave pushrod first then try adjusting the master cylinder pushrod and contemplate changing the clutch when the weather is nicer!
As I mentioned its not slipping yet so big jobs can wait!

Click to expand...

Get a manual, and read up on master pushrod checking and adjustment. And use a lighted mirror on a stick to check for leaks, and examine actuator arm, it may go right through if you keep on driving.
Does the pedal pump up harder with repeated pumps?

Cheers, We will get the tools out and have a good check over and report back.
Its a bit of a generation thing...Me being old I just push hard on the pedal and don't hurry the stick and it works for me, but the lad is used to modern stuff and keeps hunting around trying to find the next right gear!!
There is no sign of it slipping at all or dragging so I just wanted to know where to start.
Thanks for all of the help, cheers

Remove cover on top of pedal box and see how much free play there is and adjust it up until most of it had gone. Look closely at clutch pedal and make sure nothing is broken or bent.

Did this happen during the test drive? Or did it come on all of a sudden?

I agree with nobber. Don't go delving in to deep until you have had a quick visual inspection and bled the clutch. My clutch did this when the reservoir went empty due to master cylinder leak

Have you checked the fluid level? If you have a leak you will get these symptoms just before it runs out of fluid. If the fluid level is very low, just topping it up may temporarily cure the symptoms, but clearly wouldn't fix the leak.

Just to throw a spanner in there, I had this problem last week, turns out my turbo was boiling my clutch fluid.

So, easy stuff first, check fluid levels. If levels are Ok does the pedal change when you pump it? does the bite point change when you pump it?
Master cylinder can let past the seals but fluid levels will stay the same unless its leaking, you will see fluid around the master, slave will leak if its letting past the seals so you might see fluid leaking out the bell housing, you will certainly see a low fluid level in the reservoir, let us know how you get on, but , important, did this just happen all of a sudden?

Alex's Dad said:

Hi,
In that order or should I look at the slave pushrod first then try adjusting the master cylinder pushrod and contemplate changing the clutch when the weather is nicer!
As I mentioned its not slipping yet so big jobs can wait!

Click to expand...

Don't go pulling the slave out, or the slave pushrod, that push rod clips into the clutch fork, the clip is plastic and not very good at doing its job, if you pull it out its a proper nightmare to get back in. I use a length of 10mm copper pipe down over the pushrod and it then keeps the clip steady while I locate it into the clutch fork, its keyhole surgery and a right PITA, anytime you remove the slave don't be tempted to pull the push rod out unless you have a new clip and a length of rigid pipe to hold it in place.