L322 TDV8 or D3 TDV6

Hi guys,

I'm in a bit of a dilemma. I've moved to an area, which gets a lot of snow (40cm dump regularly, 1m occasionaly), and last 15km of the roads is bad tarmac or gravel, deep in the sticks. I also tend to travel long drives for work (Slovenia to Sweden) several times per year.

My relic (1995 P38a DT) is on it's last leg, has 350k km, leaks everywhere and electrics playing tricks, so i can't really trust it anymore, it has to go (SWMBO says so as well).

And now the dilemma - should I get a 2007ish D3 TDV6 or a 2007ish L322 TDV8. I need 2 seats, really, and some place for a dog. Interior space is not an issue, both have enough.

What I'd put most emphasis on is, a winch mount possibility(detachable), good headlights (so i can see all the bears, wolves and deer on the road), reliability (if you can talk about reliability on the same page as about LRs), comfort (for the long drives).

What are your opinions?
Cheers
Crt

The D3 mods up nicely.....and the gear is plentiful...the L322 is an awesome vehicle and I wouldn't have anything else.....but a specced up D3 with all the gear looks the nuts!

Here's a friend of ours D3....



Me i'd have an L322 any day of the week over a Disco....but we did think about a D3 to join the L322 a while ago, so I wouldn't discount one.

As for your dilemma, the D3 would be a good choice, the early TDV8's are awesome, but parts are silly money.

chort said:

Hi guys,

What I'd put most emphasis on is, a winch mount possibility(detachable), good headlights (so i can see all the bears, wolves and deer on the road), reliability (if you can talk about reliability on the same page as about LRs), comfort (for the long drives).

Crt

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If you need the winch then it is the D3 as the RR TDV8 can't have a winch mounted on its front as it will take the front axle over its design weight.

Other than the winch the D3 is not patch on a TDV8

Hmm, Andy thanks for that bit of info... i guess a detachable winch could work as well, gives you the flexibility to have it on only when you need it. Any particular thing to look at a TDV8 Vogue SE with 180k km on the clock?
Saint, my P38a was a learning curve but i'm perfectly comfortable working on my own (complicated) car, and i'm counting about 2 grand per year for maintenance. Reasonable? I'm actually in a situation for the first time when the price doesn't (too much) dictate the car to buy, and if it will cost more, then feck it I loved the old one (and hated it on certain, not plentiful occasions), so i guess the new(er) shape should be miles better car.

chort said:

Hmm, so i guess the new(er) shape should be miles better car.

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Not necessarily.

I can now say i have owned both cars. not exactly the TDV8 L322 but an early TD6 model.
and i have now traded it in for a 2012 SDV6 Disco4.

must say there is no comparison on the better car, i was pleasantly surprised but the 8 speed twin turbo SDV6 in the disco is a dream to drive and a more suitable car due to the larger loading area etc...

i can see why they are so popular on the roads now !

would save up and get the later disco 4 (2012 onwards) if you can, they are much better than the earlier TDv6 6 speed ones were.

good luck !

We had a D4 at work the SDV6, ours was the cmmercial version....basically just had no rear seats, but still had the rear doors, windows were disabled and there was some plastic panelling over the inside ofthe windows.

Great car, plenty quick enough, ours was a 2011 6 speed box, but went well...I found the cabin cramped compared to the L322...maybe because the L322 I have is light interior and the D4 was black cloth...so it was dark, but I could get comfy-ish in it....felt a bit plastic compared with the L322, but we only had the poverty spec version. so no toys, leather or anything...only air con and bluetooth...thats it!

Nice enough car, but I am an L322 man...if I had to choose!..

Main things to look out for on the RR TDV8 VSE - I am not good a Kms so it will be in miles
- Engine is pretty strong and has plenty of poke
- Alternators give up at 80-100k miles and normally destroy the battery at the same time, pig of a job to replace as alternator is low down in engine bay, but can be done as a DIY job
- EGR valves have been know to fail, normally on high milers. Some people have had Turbo failure after replacing EGR's
- Turbo's reasonably strong, but actuator arms can stick. Can be unstuck as diy job, but LHS turbo is really difficult to get at. NB if the turbos fail they are not cheap to replace £2k or more
- gearboxs pretty bullet proof, LR recommend fluid change at 150k miles, most forums recommend fluid change every 70-80K miles to protect gearbox. You must use the correct ZF fluid in the box though.
- rear arches and top tailgate can rust
- Front and rear bushes can take a hammering so listen for knocking noise on test drive
- for VSE make sure heated/cooled seats work, they use a peltier unit to heat and cool the seat and air is blown through the seat cushions. Make sure headphones and remote for rear set entertainment are with the RR. Should have adaptive headlights, switch the lights on and it should go cross eyed on starting engine (adaptive self test)
- TPMS tyre valves can corrode and snap off, check the valves carefully or get the TPMS system switched off and replace tyre valves with normal rubber ones

Andy_J said:

If you need the winch then it is the D3 as the RR TDV8 can't have a winch mounted on its front as it will take the front axle over its design weight.

Other than the winch the D3 is not patch on a TDV8

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I keep a Tirfor in the boot. Attaches anywhere and not reliant on electrics. You'd be amazed how quick it is too.