Disco 2 Which rocker cover gasket?

My rocker covers is leaking quite bad, hopefully this will be the last oil leak for me to fix for a while.

TD5

which is the best rocker cover gasket to buy from here?

https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR7094-Rocker-Cover-Gasket-Td5-Pre-1A/

there are quite a few, some for a few pounds, some for around a tenna, or the genuine land rover for 5 million pounds.

Has anyone bought any of the others and what are your views on them?

I'm thinking maybe the Reinz gasket?

thanks

Reinz is high quality but if you want no leak there for good buy 13 x genuine ERR7266 then you'll be fixed for a while cos there's the main problem

Wouldn't bother with the dirt cheap ones, I tried one, it sort of fitted where it touched sort of thing.

I got one around a tenner, did the job fine

As fery says, get the bolt seals too, mine were as hard as a whores heart

Cheers

sierrafery said:

Reinz is high quality but if you want no leak there for good buy 13 x genuine ERR7266 then you'll be fixed for a while cos there's the main problem

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so you think the leak is from the screws and not the gasket?

Gordy88 said:

Wouldn't bother with the dirt cheap ones, I tried one, it sort of fitted where it touched sort of thing.

I got one around a tenner, did the job fine

As fery says, get the bolt seals too, mine were as hard as a whores heart

Cheers

Click to expand...

thanks guys.

The rocker cover screws are cheaper for the genuine land rover 1's lol

https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR7266-Seal-Rocker-Cover-Screw-Td5/?sfi=ERR7266&keep_https=yes

sierrafery said:

Reinz is high quality but if you want no leak there for good buy 13 x genuine ERR7266 then you'll be fixed for a while cos there's the main problem

Click to expand...

Fery nailed it here, it's pointless doing the gasket if not also replacing the grommet tophats, the rubber in these perishes over time and stops the lid being held down against the gasket with sufficient force to stops leaks....

Bennehboy said:

Fery nailed it here, it's pointless doing the gasket if not also replacing the grommet tophats, the rubber in these perishes over time and stops the lid being held down against the gasket with sufficient force to stops leaks....

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I guess this could be the reason to my leak, either way, all will be replaced, thanks

I might be wrong, but I seem to remember that there are different cam cover gaskets for the 10p and 15p Td5 engines. It might be worth making sure.
And while you have the cover off you might as well change the "half-moon" seal at the back end of the engine too.

What's this 'half-moon' thing ?

fellipe said:

What's this 'half-moon' thing ?

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There's a semi circular cutout at the back of the head where the rocker bar sits, the gasket has a 'half moon' rubber shape which sits in the cutout, this is the main place where oil leaks from - I usually put a line of RTV either side of the semi circular bit on the gasket and it seems to help (LR also instructed this to be done on 10p heads). There's no separate seal for it.

lets hope the gasket is the right 1, cus I bought it last night and will be fitting it at the weekend. the website I bought it from didn't mention anything about different gaskets

For 10P engine is ERR7094 and for 15/16P is LVP000020

yay, i've ordered the wrong gasket. are the grommets wrong too?

LandyMan said:

yay, i've ordered the wrong gasket. are the grommets wrong too?

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Grommets are same for both engine types.

Bennehboy said:

There's a semi circular cutout at the back of the head where the rocker bar sits, the gasket has a 'half moon' rubber shape which sits in the cutout, this is the main place where oil leaks from - I usually put a line of RTV either side of the semi circular bit on the gasket and it seems to help (LR also instructed this to be done on 10p heads). There's no separate seal for it.

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Thanks!! I'll also change the injector seals when doing this job.

fellipe said:

Thanks!! I'll also change the injector seals when doing this job.

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Make sure you use only genuine LR parts for those, aftermarket ones are crap.

Absolutely! Read there's no need for any special tool to remove the injectors, is that true?

fellipe said:

Absolutely! Read there's no need for any special tool to remove the injectors, is that true?

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Not as long as you are careful.

Make sure you put each injector back where it came from otherwise you'll need to recode the ECU with the injector codes.

Do NOT put any side to side pressure on the injector or you could crack the seat = new head time.

I use a long 6mm allan key with a chamfer ground on the inside edge, this can then be inserted under the bridge of the injector and very gently used to lever the injector out of the port in slow small steps.

A small deep socket can be used to evenly press the copper washers onto the injectors, be careful because they warp easily. Some washers just slide on, others need a bit of gentle persuassion, for the former use a tiny bit of vaseline to keep them in place as you lower the injectors into their bores. A bit of masking tape round the injector covering the ridge allows you to get the o-rings on without them getting stuck - bit of o-ring lube or vaseline helps em on nicely too..

When putting them back, just lightly place them into the seats, and use ONLY the alternate tightening of the clamp bolts to draw the injector back into the ports - DONT push them home, again you might crack the seats.

Ideally the clamp bolts need to be refreshed, they are stretch bolts - make sure you toque them up to spec and NO tighter.

Finally, make sure to reset the rocker adjustment for each cylinder, see RAVE for info.

Wow, sounds complex and too delicate no symptoms of failing injector seals. Guess I will only change the gasket and grommets and call it a day. Won't mess with the injector seals.

It's best left alone if you don't have any symptoms of problems.

fellipe said:

Wow, sounds complex and too delicate .

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Believe it or not I had almost a sleepless night before I changed mine LOL Mine needed doing so had no choice but luckily I had use of a slide hammer. I followed UP's write up, got some additional info on making it easier to set the clearance and the whole job was quite straight forward without drama.