Puma - power failure. Any ideas??

Edgarbug said:

Hi, guys.

Brand new member, brand new Puma (90 hard top). Love this vehicle truly, madly and deeply .

The fact that the rear demister doesn't work and that the door seals aren't properly fitted is just ... charming. However, took brand new car (i.e. week old) on drive to Bournemouth and, about an hour into the journey, the power died away. It did it several times thereafter. It came back reasonably quickly, but not before we had gone down from 55 to 15 mph and ****ed off half of the south of England.

Its pretty clear that the turbo just died away and then came back, eventually.

No changes in the revs, engine temperature, no warning lights. Didn't seem to be linked to any particular speed or gear change or road conditions.

Land Rover Assist came out and found ... nothing wrong.

Did it on the way back, too, so it is real. Obviously going to warranty the **** out of this, but does anyone have any idea what it might be? Have I bought an expensive metal shed that I can't rely on?

Any thoughts from those that know (or might reasonably guess) would be much appreciated.

Many thanks.

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It's new and has A WARRENTY make land rover fix it make a note time day and driving conditions contact them and have repairs done, If not fixed then call the company and bitch like hell but have all your facts.
Also mention deal who did ir sis not fix it

You put a spanner on it and you stand a very good chance on VOIDING you warranty, be careful

Must be something about the LR spec of the engine as I havent heard this kind of thing happening on Mondeos or Transits

Tuskenraider said:

Must be something about the LR spec of the engine as I havent heard this kind of thing happening on Mondeos or Transits

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The motor is good in the original form, but they detuned it to 110hp and that is when the problems surfaced.

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I'm having the exact same problem with a 2010 Defender I bought second hand from a dealer. Having bought it and modded it slightly, I made contact with the original owner only to find it was a pre-existing fault and part of the reason it was sold. It wasnt you was it??

Dealers are currently trying to wriggle out of fixing it and are claiming they cant provide the previous error codes from work completed under warranty! Am I wrong to expect a premium service from a premium brand, albeit a defender!

ellebarto said:

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I'm having the exact same problem with a 2010 Defender I bought second hand from a dealer. Having bought it and modded it slightly, I made contact with the original owner only to find it was a pre-existing fault and part of the reason it was sold. It wasnt you was it??

Dealers are currently trying to wriggle out of fixing it and are claiming they cant provide the previous error codes from work completed under warranty! Am I wrong to expect a premium service from a premium brand, albeit a defender!

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Search for the "what to do if you bought a crock of ****" thread there's some good advice there that will help

Oh and then sell it and buy a pre 2007 Defender, maybe even pre 1999

Helpful input! Cnut!

ellebarto said:

Helpful input! Cnut!

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Dont bother looking then I int the one with a shagged car

:welcome2:

Like the tdv6 Disco 3 the Puma cat is too close to the turbo! problem area!Remove cat .

new to this forum so coming late to this party,

I HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM

for me and I hope any one else, it was a cooling (well over heating problem) if the engine temp moves even a tinny bit above the half way point the engine looses all power but as soon as it starts to cool, and costing from motor way speeds to 15mph always seems to do it, the temp drops just enough for power to return,

mine was due to mud in the radiator, silly me used it off road

not sure what would be causing your over heating but, its an area to look at,

and I know its a long time since this thread was started but this may just help some one,

Mark

I would like to share my experience about power loss/failure, sorry in advance for my bad english!

This summer I made a 5760 Km trip to Morocco, Spain and France.
Puma engine run almost fine even in very hot climate condition and hard track.

In the middle of the trip, suddently I experienced a MAP Sensor (the one near the vacuum pump) fault that appear when the engine was under fairly load, for example while driving in a steep road.

When the engine was loaded, suddently the power drop down to almost zero and the engine turn off by itself. To restart the engine I need to wait a couple of minutes and then the engine could be restarted. I then was able to drive for many km, but only trying to load the engine the less as possible.

The problem was not easy to investigate due to the absence of useful DTC and engine malfunction light or overheating.

The MAP sensor was cleaned and problem then disappeared.

Try to clean or better replace the MAP sensor.

Eyup.
Mine goes to limp mode every time I take it on the motorway.
Following the advice from MD5 I have just removed my map sensor. I was stunned to see how much crap was caked to it.
I was expecting a bit of dust, I was not expecting the thick sludge of carbonised oil caked deep into it, obviously from the EGR which vents in close by.
A soak in turps and a thorough but carfull clean with a thin paint brush and it came up shiny as new.
I'll post in a few weeks if it works or if it doesnt.

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Eyup!

Two weeks later on and its working fine. I havn't experienced a powe loss since cleaning the sensor. Pleased as punch. Cheers. J
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Eyup. Problems back. Might not have been the map sensor after all. Shame, I felt sooooo cocky. Its worth cleaning the filthy sensor anyway.
Just had it in for a brake recal and the LR dealership said that it is possibly caused by water in the fuel due to a cracked fuel tank breather pipe. the pipes are useless and do crack like buggery, but I have so little faith in the stealership I simply dont believe them. They were kind enough to offer to sell me a new car though. Theyre only £28K. Problem solved.

Eyup again
Finaly solved it.
Diagnostics said it was Turbo Overpressure, possibly caused by either or both the airflow sensor and the EGR.
Repalced the airflow sensor. it wasn't that.
Put a blanking plate in the EGR and Bingo it hasn't died since. The EGR's already been electronicaly neutered by Alive so no engine warning lights.
Now runs fine and seems to be a bit more efficient. Bonza!

hi Edgarbug,
it's a long time ago now but did you get that problem sorted? I have a similar problem with my 2007 defender which is a bit boring and no mechanic can offer a solution. I would be grateful for any information.
regards
Pete

We recently bought a 2007 van body 110 with about 140000 miles. Started playing up with the engine dying out, no throttle response and the engine finally cutting out. re-start and it would more than likely do it again.
Got a local guy to look at it and he spent nearly a whole day on it. Nothing on the diagnostics, nothing obvious like filters.
He eventually cleaned out the EGR which was choked solid which solved the problem. Nothing since. Does seem that a faulty EGR on the TDCI engines seems to cause all sorts of funny problems.

Go look at Transit forums, EGR is a common problem.