Recent content by swampdonkey

your wanting to buy a RR but already dont fancy the running costs?? believe me the fuel costs will be nothing compared to the bigger bills/depreciation youve got coming..... GOOD LUCK

x5/bmw 325and now your after a landrover? well after a short spell behind the wheel you should be able to handle the power welcome!

like i said.....i cant be certain....but having had it happen a few times and from what ive read/know im convinced its bio diesel that causes it,but then again im sure i saw elvis in the chippy too

ive had this 3 times now.....not the same engine though...one even bent a conrod as the piston made its bid for freedom As to the cause,thats simple...a leaking injector,the seal weeps and fills the bore which eventually shows as diesel in the sump...or it stays in the bore and you get a...

the usual routing/wiring if using a relay is one wire to the lamps themselves....one wire from a main beam trigger....one from the battery...one to earth,and i put a fuse on tyhe power feed from the battery as for wattage ive 130s on the A bar spots,55watts on the four roof lamps and uprated(i...

at a guess on level ground then min to max on a dipstick for a TDi would be about a litre

as the engine warms and expands at a different rate from the manifold tyhen its not unheard of if the manifold isnt quite tightened down correctly for it to allow air in past the gasket therefore upsetting the fueling

if it was a carb then id be looking a choke staying on from what you described....and it may be a long shot(but ive heard of it before now)but if the inlet manifold(s)are leaving a slight gap when the engine warms then again you could be getting probs only once warm from air weakening the mixture

:welcome2:

warning light- is it diff lock? see that thread,you may have the same prob

all of the above are correct.....pull it to the right to disengage then drive a few yards...the easiest way to tell if its the light or is actually still engaged is drive it....(slowly incase it is locked in) youl feel everything'tight' if its in and 'as normal' if its out and just a faulty...

if you are planning on keeping the car for the long term then id replace ird/vcu as they are the two main concerns with the freelander TD4s,if however your looking at moving on to a lambo/ferarri/bugatti or whatever it is you teechas are driving these days then just spend the minimum to move it...

steering guard

300tdi need bleeding.....easy enough to do

you are asking how long a rope is...there are no doubt LRs in here knocking on 300000m and there are some(talking to a guy in here at weekend with a blown engine at 40000m)with alot less than that.......and at the end of the day only you knows what jobs you could tackle yourself when things go...