Maybe things got worst in time cos based on the actual MAP reading it's obvious that it instantly goes to overboost so the lack of power is normal for that default
So that's definitely a big problem, now unplug the MAP sensor and read that way, eventually drive test it with sensor unplugged.... as you replaced the sensor seems that it's a wiring issue on that path or the ECU has a fault
Hi. If the job was done by real specialists who have the very expensive testing machine then your man is right you should have got new codes too but there are more rudimentary methods when they just simply clean them or change the...
Just a small addition to a post I put on a day or two ago. If you have a fluid leak and are considering a compression fitting repair and are concerned about the condition of the pipe surface where the compression fitting may be attached. The...
Buy a block off a breaker, dismantle, get all 6 holes drilled with flats inside to handle 1/4" BSP.
Swivel, 2m hose, 14mm banjo ,x 4
Pump short pipes 3/8 BSP to compression fittings on the cut off pump pipes.
In that case the system becomes "floppy" with clear technical reasons, i experienced it myself with loaded vehicle when i lost the fluid due to a massive pipe leak and at higher speed it can be tricky(to not say dangerous) while cornering hard...
The bolt is to remove the old seals... tap in the new seals and bin that black plastic part but after you removed the old seals clean very well the holes cos the old o-rings used to get stuck in there or leave residues which can hurt the new ones...
Be aware that if you bought complete pipes untill the block you need new seals(RVW100010) and plastic collars(ANR6700) under the bracket, some sellers say they are for air suspension which is wrong, the old ones are not reusable
Hi. Maybe i'm the man but i used to respect my own decision written with red in my signature ;)
Ok, i'll make an exception seing your pain... seems that you bypassed the fuel pump relay and the circuit to pump is OK, now bridge the main...
You have to see if power gets to terminal with ignition on 30 then if it closes to 87 when the relay clicks... from 87 the power should get to the pump
Hi,
I have no ideea what they mean by that
...all i can tell you is that the tacho signal on the D2 is white/grey wire going to C0230 pin 15 but that's a 2pulse/rev PWM signal i dont know if that "5v or 12V square wave signal" described by...
Then it's an interruption between the relay's output and pump if the relay's contact is 100% good and has power on the contact input pin... did you check if power enters and leaves the relay on the contact path?
You can't "bypass" the immobiliser all you can do is to disable it with nanocom or hawkeye once the vehicle is remobilised, while it's immobilised you can't do anything
You have to rule out the receiver first cos if that's the problem a second...
AFAIK those modells are pretty the same as functionality when it comes to the D2, maybe some differencies with Jags or newer LRs even though they get updates so it's all about price IMO
Hi. Search around for Foxwell NT520/or 530/or 510 Elite for Land Rover which ever you find cheaper, it will do the job for ABS and decent coverage for other systems except the engine management where it's not very reliable but better technical...
It's the other way around, too much fuel/lack of air = high EGT hence the superchargers are improving things, also if it's low boost for some management issue or other reason the EGT gets higher... the MAP sensor is quite suspect on your's at...
Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know that it was the crankshaft sensor!! Took a while to receive a genuine one and install but then the car is working perfectly fine!!! The only weird thing is that the radio has gone crazy. I dont know...
in this case i stand corrected... based on the handbook
:
seems that there are some specs which are doing that maybe those built for the UK market cos mine didnt do that not even when it was on the factory setting and now it's certainly not...
The alarm doesnt sound if you unlock the door with it's key just the immobiliser kicks in ... it would scream if you force open it or break a window if it's on factory setting
thanks, found the correct line, however i will have a go and replace the connector only... we ll see. For anyone needing the info, the ID is 6mm.
I also found this: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-line-quick-connect-broken.391969/...
I agree with that^^^
for the OP: IMO a well made remap can improve the engine's functionality and reduce the stress on it despite of enhanced power or torque but even if no gain in this area i'm sure it won't hurt... i dont think that the remap...