A second key is useless while the vehicle is immobilised cos the BCU is locked for programming, you have to remobilise it first then a good used key can be programmed with nanocom by a friendly member close to you or you can hire one HERE ...or...
If you erase the codes do they all come back after a ride? The title is about suspension and only one code is related to that, possible causes attached:
Then you really need a diagnostics session cos it can be the MAP sensor at fault especially it's IAT side but this can be checked only with live data or eventually there is a fault code for it... though that's just a guess unless you want to...
As long as the fob doesnt work it becomes immobilised once opened with the key, replace the RF receiver cos it's the most common cause for such intermittent symptom especially if you have two fobs and it behaves the same with both
Hi, the SRS light can have multiple reasons you have to read the fault code instead of digging in blind, under the seats or dash the only relevant connectors for that light are yellow or red, that black plug is unused
I dont know that tool. If it's multivehicle type which lets you select the vehicle modell and covers the D2 and you can scan each particular ECU (in this case Td5 engine management/powertrain/what ever they call it) then you should try, if it can...
As your door latch seems to be fubar as well and you can't remobilise it with the EKA code all you can do is to replace the RF receiver and hope it's that otherwise you'll have to replace the door latch actuator to be able to insert the code or...
almost, it's for MAF, wastegate modulator and EGR(hopefully this was bypassed).... though the best would be to see some live data from a ride when the symptom occurs, that would be the really relevant thing
You should have use the unlock command before disabling things cos if it was locked with enabled superlock you should unlock it the same. Let superlock enabled when you unlock cos if you disabled it before trying to unlock it's possible that the...
Use a lubricant spray which has a flexible nozzle , something like THIS , see if you can reach it better through the under dash compartment where the fusebox is
Until today, we have not been able to find the cause of the fault. On Wednesday, we have an appointment at an authorized Land Rover service. I will let you know the diagnostic result from the service. Best regards, Jacek.
If a CDL is fitted with the proper linkage you must push the lever to the left to lock the diff no matter if it's in high or low, see this video from 2.20
In most cases, OEM means nothing these days if the brand is not clearely mentioned, it's just a marketing scam, the only reliabe suffix is LR for the genuines and those parts are coming in the LR box
IMO a D5 should be safe enough with it's factory settings as long as the owner takes care of it's keys to not be lost no need for add-ons... that's quite valid for any Discovery with factory fitted alarm even the early ones
Nanocom is from a different league, it can do more complex programming with the BCU than Foxwell or Icarsoft and these are not reliable at all when it comes to Td5 engine management(i learned that the hard way), they are usefull for the other...