Recent content by Sheddist

Thought this may be worth sharing. Always had a bit of a creak from the rear of my Freelander 1 3 door. Not subframe mounts or anything to do with hard top or suspension. It turned out to be side to side movement between the taildoor latch and striker. Adjusting the striker outwards to take...

Strange one that. I would be surprised if the solenoid was at fault, given that the indiactors are flashing etc. It would seem that there is a spurious signal reaching the BCM, causing the solenoid to operate. Usually, those motors fail by not releasing the latch.

Could be an earth fault. What was the problem before you changed the "solenoid?"

V6 inlet plenum motors don't like oil contamination, so don't overfill. I measure 5.3L and fully pre-fill the oil filter. Not aware of dipstick problems.

After having 1 new tyre, front brakes and tracking, past MOT with no advisories. Had the headlining off, foam filled the pillars and stuck felt tape to all the overlapping bits of plastic. Lined where possible with closed cell foam sheet (camping roll at £2.50 a go!) Nice and solid and creaky...

Decided to hang fire on the headlining until some self adhesive felt arrives. Going to put this between the casings that can rub/rattle. Regarding foam, I use expanding foam in the windscreen and roof pillars after first taping over any holes where it could escape. Any closed cell foam sheet...

Recently acquired a 3dr sport premium as a dog chariot! Replaced front disks and pads and with the wheels off, took the opportunity to make sure the bolts holding the struts to hub would come out- the did - just! (have bad experiences with these before) Track rod end and track rod bolts freed...

Interesting project. Getting the tube right is a real PITA. It may be easier to have say, 3mm steel lasercut to match the tube with "feet" welded on each end. These would be more accurate and repeatable than tube bending the other sheet metal parts are easily laser cut and the strips across...

It is better to try to get the circlip back witht he master cylinder in situ. If the circlip has come off, then removing the master cylinder can cause all its "guts" and fluid to leak out, giving you a big headache when you try to bleed air out of a sealed system.

Is it a hydraulic clutch? If so, then a circlip that holds the "guts" of the master cylinder may have popped out. It can be re-assembled and pedal height will return to where it was before. Usually the circlip stays on the pushrod.

The odious bracket is a Rover part as are the silly plastic cracker novelties used for cylinders.

Warranty direct, if you ask the sales people nicely will let you service the car yourself. In the event of a claim, you will need to provide receipts for parts. Best to use OE for service items. Also, don't accept their first price, they will follow up a web enquiry with a call or two so haggle!

The thing to watch out for on the KV6 is the variable intake system. This comrises motor operated valves contained in the inlet plenum. The motors fail due to broken soldered joints inside and can be fixed: http://forums.xpowerforums.com/showthread.php?t=31504 The valves in the plenum can...

The Mrs. probably slams it harder and makes the intermittent connection work.

Any of them