Recent content by robgeev

I had one recently that had a new head-one of the injectors was loose-same problem, get it checked, not a big job, also make sure genuine injector washers were used.

Or wiring fault to XY switch, or problems with injector harness-communication time out fault. Essentially if it persists, you need a diagnostic check.

I've converted several, and actually they take to it fine. Tank locates under boot floor, chop off storage box and panel flat, 40ltr tank hangs underneath, make new exhaust - bit sporty sounding though! Make sure it's a good sequential system, an old single point system will backfire and blow...

Check compressor fuse in engine bay box, then fit a new compressor. Valves are integral part of comp assembly. Rob.

Autologics tune makes your heart beat fast! Delivered one I tuned yesterday, wahay! Just get it plugged in and find out for sure, buy almost certainly the injector harness. Could be fuel pump, change your filter, if it won't bleed up (5 presses of acc pedal), pumps knackd. Rob.

Sorry, I disagree with all the above, I've owned several high mileage D3's and the kick the arse of the finest 2 on the market in every way, if the two cars are the same price, either the 2 is mega overpriced or the D3 is stolen! 100% do not opt for the old model, but get the newer car checked...

So- you're going to stop it raining? Good luck with that!:)

From what I can see, they've probably buggered up the handbrake-probably damaged the cable. Can't imagine how they can have affected the starter-unless the earth cable to the chassis has snapped off? Regards the crunching, nothing they have done can cause this, so long as the clutch IS actually...

Part numbers you should need (upto KA chassis number) are FRC3890 and FRC3891, this is the CV with shaft. CV alone AEU2522 Shafts AEU2520 (RH) and AEU2521 (LH), removed from service by LR, but still available from everyones favourite! TBH, never had a problem myself, and have used lots over...

And at that age, you're unlikely to find the numbers stamped onto the axle case!

I would be surprised if the block was cracked, much more likely to be the head, I cannot remember ever having seen a 300 go that way-and I've seen a lot of busted ones! Sourcing a used one would be very easy,i've got at least one, or even a complete engine-but you'd have to take the whole car! Rob.

Either the park brake module or wiring to it, not cheap either way, the new modules are on restricted supply as LR are aware that the new ones are still a bit iffy! Calibration will make no difference, diagnostic will show loss of communications.

Do the UJ's move nice and smoothly when you move the yolks? Is there a lot of lift in the splined joint? Try running with the prop off altogether-just in case there's something else going on! Try a different prop if you can borrow one? New props are very cheap-barely worth fixing an old one TBH...

It certainly wouldn't be the first-also, have a look at the flywheel, make sure there's no tooth damage.

Regarding Brittpart, it's worth bearing in mind that they also supply genuine parts, ask your dealer who the manufacturer is, they can tell you as it's detailed in the price list, Allmakes likewise. Rob.