Recent content by jacko68

Exactly that. The freelander auto box doesn't have a diff; it's a quill shaft that goes into the. IRD. So you could run a shaft back through the box outputs & bolt on LR drive flanges. The Rover 75 uses the same auto box, using that you could weld up the diff gears & machine the drive cups down...

Mine has the KV6 and freelander auto box; standard 2-pin diffs and shafts, doesn't seem to need a transfer box (it runs in second gear most of the time)

I think it would be more straightforward to use the PG1 box that comes with the engine. Then connect the props directly to the gearbox outputs If your lucky/ careful/ search carefully, you might just find a PG1 with a torsen LSD (standard Rover fitment, pre 2001 ;) )

Just to add to Owl's reply, make sure that the springs are a constant rate & compare your measured free length against the LR specs to make sure they haven't sagged too much....Should give you an accurate enough value.

I think that the engine position on most 80s is as much to do with the length of the drivetrain. Without getting creative with 101 bell housings, series boxes etc the issue is getting a sensible length rear prop shaft & the front of the engine ends up where it does...

I'm between Launceston & Callington, just the right side of the river:D

Hi, depends what you want the frame for and who's rules you will be playing by:). They've just done a CCV frame for me. Welds are all excellent & the bends are all smooth, with no rippling on the inside of the bends. Malcolm does jig build ALRC spec frames (MSA competition legal) both welded to...

Hi all, Been developing a Lnadrover habit over the last few years, first as tow vehicles for my wife's horses, now trialling... Have a disco TD5 for towing, 30tdi RTV trialler, and am building a V6 CCV trialler Thought I'd do the intro, as Whitbread built my CCV cage, see reply in the...