Recent content by discool

Seems a bit involved 😊

Could an early RR or disco1 key or later models with the security fob attached on the same key ring for remote central locking. If you think its a land rover key a main dealer service dept would confirm it is.

Your assumption is okay, as DVLA say that when a private plate is removed the vehicle will be given a age related plate.

The number is only a reference to the keys profile, which also you can find stated along other numbers on the vehicles LRs ‘Security Information’ card…

Something else, your attached link is applicable to the 3.5 Range Rover which of course I was aware off.

The L prefix registered vehicles were from August 1993 to July 1994 your reg certificate will give the first date. 1993 D1s were fitted with the 200 engine, but some owners in the past have mentioned in the forums that their early vehicles had the 300 tdi but the electric wiring was still that...

The 1995MY D1 with its 300tdi engine was introduced in March 1994, and of course it has “fusible links” located in the engine bay fusebox. The 1994MY D1 had the 200tdi engine. Just saying for those that are uncertain 🤔😊

You’re welcome 😊

it’s a printed circuit board mounted component which is factory built for particular inertia spec for its application, and part of the vehicles security ECU PCB. It can’t be adjusted and it is a safety feature.

From the road tests of the time very slow, auto 15.8 & manual 14.2 so could do with a bit of improvement 🤔

It should only be an issue when the vehicle has a very hard knock or bump as in an accident, there’s inertia switch which will signal the doors to unlock, if locked, and also set the hazards flashing. To cancel, is by switching off the ignition switch and then back on… which you have already...

Ok my 3.5 RR which I owned from new had just over 100,000 miles and when at 10 years old I sold it, ait never has any ignition issues, and as all 3.5s then including my TVR before had the amplifier on the distributor… in fact I was unaware there was a perceived issue with the amp in that...

Was the amp already screw on the alloy bracket, which is also acts as a heat sink, if no you didn’t forget to smear the mating surface with MS4 silicone grease amp or an equivalent heat contacting compound if not the amp could go faulty sooner or latter. As for the separate earth, what earth...

Lucas parts are still around although owned North American company, but genuine Lucas parts are still manufactured in the UK I understand. Over the years we have been told that its best to carry on using Lucas if your Land Rover left the factory fitted with them… so of the top of my head… for...

Assume the amp is a pattern part of RTC5089 that you’re fitting. Haven’t you tried fitting the genuine part STC1184G three pin module remotely with its extension lead this amp as this supersedes the RTC item I see here’s already a few threads on this subject.