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Ok my 3.5 RR which I owned from new had just over 100,000 miles and when at 10 years old I sold it, ait never has any ignition issues, and as all 3.5s then including my TVR before had the amplifier on the distributor… in fact I was unaware there was a perceived issue with the amp in that...

Was the amp already screw on the alloy bracket, which is also acts as a heat sink, if no you didn’t forget to smear the mating surface with MS4 silicone grease amp or an equivalent heat contacting compound if not the amp could go faulty sooner or latter. As for the separate earth, what earth...

Lucas parts are still around although owned North American company, but genuine Lucas parts are still manufactured in the UK I understand. Over the years we have been told that its best to carry on using Lucas if your Land Rover left the factory fitted with them… so of the top of my head… for...

Assume the amp is a pattern part of RTC5089 that you’re fitting. Haven’t you tried fitting the genuine part STC1184G three pin module remotely with its extension lead this amp as this supersedes the RTC item I see here’s already a few threads on this subject.

Depending on the model year... my 3.5 RR 1987MY had a direct drive. Then the 1990MY 3.9 with the Borg T box was around. so if Land Rover now decided to fit a a transducer which there are two versions (like the disco 3.9) either a short direct drive from the T box to an inline transducer mounted...

There were adverts 30 odd years ago in the LR magazines showing a replacement seal kit which had split seal and included the “special” adhesive.

Exactly, if the insurance company is happy to quote for D1 vehicles that are all have the same engines and performance for the given model, the only difference being just options either chosen by owner or standard fitting from the factory on the high end models and nothing to improve vehicle...

Only the 5 door XS and the ES had ABS as standard, with all the rest it was a customer option for a new vehicle, so it’s possible some D1s don't have ABS. Get a quote for repair as it could be something simple.

Like the previous posts, I can’t recommend any one either. As I had to lookup the item, if what I found is the correct item and with the lack of second hand items it appears to me you may have to purchase a new item (link below) then pay a visit to your main LR dealer and place your order, So...

Land Rover call it CONTROL UNIT BURGLAR ALARM (security although it also sends a signal to the immobiliser and central locking system. Otherwise known as a security ECU. Part number ANR4886 depending on the VIN and where you are in the world. You remote fobs (transmitter plip) will have to be...

I had an intermittent CC and it turned be an iffy master switch contacts, the system dropped out than returned or pressing the master switch off-on a few times reconnect it, but that was till the next time, dirty contact I suspected, so switch replacement time as my switch couldn’t be...

Perhaps you can also review Lucas Black Edition as they are advertised at 180% 😃 My disco has them fitted and now the headlamp lamp guards form a shadow on the road, buts thats it just test, as I don’t drive it in the dark, now hardly drive in daylight either 😃

Well so where do want to start? The master switch illuminates so that only tells you the bulb is ok, then then you have the ECU, Vacuum pump, Actuator which you show in two pictures, Set and Cancel switches, Vacuum hose, and Brake pedal switch plus if you have a manual gearbox a Clutch pedal...

Well, the vac pump is positioned between the belt pulley and the body of the alternator, but only if the engine is a diesel and not petrol. I may be missing something, but the engine type hasn’t been mentioned by the OP… until then its a waste of time with suggestions as the vacuum system to...

Brake squeal is a known issue. So try fitting anti-squeal shims if not fitted, or separately supplied in the box plus using a dab of brake grease on the rear of then pads if required, shims should be included in the box or fitted on the pad if u had purchased Genuine LR Part. Loads of info...

The EFI ECU needs to know the engine is running, so it receives a signal from the ignition coil, if it doesn’t then the fuel pump won’t continue to run after its initial priming of the fuel system. What addition of Haynes manual are u using RRC or Disco1 ? as I have both and it maybe possible...

Thats what you need, with steering components, stainless steel is more fragile as we all know. Hopefully the nuts supplied were castled. Nylock will require replacement when removed as they are “use once only “ … it appears there are some who don’t know about that recommendation. 🙁

Try these people https://www.rcv.co.uk/ I've only use them for bog standard servicing which was carried out okay.

I know what u mean as I have a car in the garage that has a lock nut on the ball joint thread that enters the track tube. Unlike the D1 which uses a clamp for locking the rod adjustment, the D2 is a wee bit different, it has this item thats called a lock flange, pic shown below . 🥱😴

D1s steering only has a drag link and a track rod, the end ball joints x 4 are similar but the near side is LH thread, all have a M12 securing nut on top, castle or nylock. The rod adjusting clamps have nut & bolt but that is 1/4 unf. Anyway agreed this thread has gone off topic some what, the...