Recent content by dag019

I have a compressor. I still refuse to learn to spray it. Far too much risk of getting it wrong and messing the panel up. At least with a brush and roller if you get it wrong you can recover it by going over it again while Still wet! Two year is longer than it took to rebuild mine after the...

I cheat and use coach enamel and a gloss roller, so if you are doing it properly and trying to spray it then you have a even steeper learning curve than I did. Mine is not perfect and is a daily drive so i am not going for concourse and you can get a good enough finish with a roller as for my...

As you seem to have replaced all of the steering components already I would echo the do not assume a recon box is a good bax. however I would be also looking to check some of the other components. You say you have replaced the radius arm bushes but have checked the back end a-frame and trailing...

Agree with the above, but if you want them to last a lifetime replace the stock pistons with stainless before refitting. You talking about prop shafts in point B? If so just use the original style, you are not lifting and the wheel and trye choice are normal factory options so use the factory...

Have some pictures to help you and OP, depending on how much work you are doing to the rear body there is a fair amount of station wagon body rebuild documented on my thread here: LINK You can see on the below the panels is removed showing the bottom of the c-pillar that it rivets onto You...

Very valid point above ^^ 2x 100watt halogen spotlights have a 16.6 amp draw at 12v so you do not want more than a 20amp fuse. If you are using a standard 2x 55watt bulb then that is a 9.2amp draw at 12v so you want a 10 amp fuse. If you are using LED then they are likely to need a very low...

I think the answer is to not trust the gauge and reset the trip metre every time and refill on mileage. I refill at 200miles as a maximum. I have played with my sender repeatedly, added additional earths to it etc, and it still only shows 3/4 when full but it does show empty when it is empty so...

15/40 will be fine, mineral is what will have orginally been speced but any 15/40 will work with the engine. the 19J is also renowned for leaking and smoking (similar to most land rover products of a certain age!) do you have a couple of pics of under the bonnet, specifically that corner/sid eof...

and if you really want to go the extra mile once you have cleaned it all off give it a dusting of talcum powder to really show up any oil leak pathways.

That is correct, paint them before fitting as the lip on it sits behind the main side panel on the tub so cannot be accessed for painting after fitting.

Not a large job at all. They are riveted just riveted into place. Through the line of holes you can see In The picture. Will take longer to paint to match than to actually fit!

Are they not a straight m6? The other captives in the pillar for the toe plate seat box etc are.

I only have the single side on my 110, you can buy them just as a single. I also bent mine so it does not act as bumper but the towball is the furthest rear point which is more robust than the step if you do hit anything.

keep everything in as large a section as possible until you have a chassis you are ready to start fitting things to. e.g. remove the leaf springs form the chassis leaving full axles assembled, remove the bulkhead complete, do not strip down the dash etc. keep as much of it assembled for as long...

Pictures, All the pictures, both of the vehicle as a whole so we can be nosy, and also some of the side of the engine leaking (I apricate that may not show much but will give an idea) @meego retracted his comment but the oil filter and cooler will be on the other side. There is nothing filled...