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They are exactly the same hole spacing. The series handle does sit snug up against the wiper cover (if you have one). I am trying to find a photo of it fitted to mine. I have one of the defender handle fitted to the series door where I swapped them over to show the spacing is the same:

On my 110 I found that running 35" diameter tyres was the same as fitting the 1.2 transfer box in terms of speed vs revs vs drivability (I am sure someone who can be bothers can work out the actual ratios and tell me different). Running both would certainly have made the thing struggle. I run...

Yes, I would treat anything metal in the same way. even if it galvanised it gets the same treatment. Then you can touch up the wax as needed and re-apply every couple of years, but the paint should last as the wax protects it, and the metal should last as the paint protects it.

That is the style that you will have had fitted before and tends to bend a break as you have found. The one you have ordered form ebay you can see where the bolt tabs have been bent, on a new one the bolt tabs are flat (pic below). It is the repetitive bending and straightening that causes them...

YRM has several workshop documents showing how to fit the repair panels. Most are just bolted or riveted in place so are nice easy DIY replacement panels.

Check YRM for repair panels, They have most of what you will need. It would not be cheap but is likely to be the same amount of work for a much better result than swapping the tub, as a replacement tub is likely to have similar issues even if not quite as bad as your current one. I am about to...

I would just use rivets. I have a chequer plate door card and just drill and replace the rivets when I need to remove it. If you are going to use self tappers make sure they are stainless, they will hold it no problem, especially with some penny washers on them, and they will look basically...

As @Anaconda says, Wax is the final treatment not the only treatment. If the axles, and other things are rusting they need the rust removed (wire wheel or similar) treating with a rust converter/stabiliser, painting with primer (I like red oxide for steel, zinc 182 for galv, a quality etch...

I know you can get different grades of stainless but I am always dubious using stainless for structural applications. It has different properties to high tensile mild steel. none structural I have replaced nearly everything with stainless, but would not trust wheel studs and nuts!

They are all old enough to be on the flat rate tax and are all classed as private light goods vehicle. Also all shortly to qualify as historic and be exempt so the tax class is correct for all. It’s just the body type.

You can see the old fordson standard owned here by a friend that we are halfway through applying it to in the photo You can see where has and hasn’t been done. Finish Still looks the same 18months later but it is kept in the barn. A litre did nearly the whole tractor with two coats. So it has...

To clarify at the start I am not interested in changing the body type so it is ULEZ or similar exempt. This is purely so things are correct on record with the DVLA. All the vehicles will be historic class in the next couple of years, and only the '89 is currently on the road. My '88 factory...

My suggestion may not fall into the cheap category either as Owatrol is fairly expensive but cheaper than stainless parts! Its also one of those things that once you have a can of it you find all sorts of other things to paint with it. My old barn box portable garage tool box is the last thing I...

You could try one of the patina oils that act like a clear coat, something like owatrol oil etc. this will keep them looking original, but stop them rusting. It is used a lot on old tractors etc to preserve the work worn look but prevent it deteriorating further. Do not think it is permanent and...

I would agree as that is my preference. But as there is already holes drilled in the wings for the separate headlight guards I would Be going guards and a-bar. @Landlover99 it may not be a cosmetic change. But I would fit a set of these: LINK. Best single mod I have done to mine and make a...

Many thanks for the link, having been looking around in this price bracket that looks like quite a lot of vehicle for the money providing the work claimed to have been done has been done and to a good standard. However I have just bought a station wagon for £2300 that will shortly get a separate...

As mentioned above it is your land rover do what you want to it, but if you are looking at a potential future sale then as you say originality is what is currently valued, but everyone will modify their vehicle in the way they want. That is what I have done to mine, may not be to everyone's...

That is a pic form my rebuild after the engine fire (Thread LINK) which was done in a friends barn. The old tyre belongs to a fordson standard N which has been in his family since the 60's originally used on their farm in Wales, and now on his farm in warwickshire. It still runs and drives but...

As above first thing is to ensure structurally and mechanically sound. If that has been done you can focus on cosmetics. What you have looks from the single photo to aboriginal and unmolested. As they are currenrtly what command the highest price I would not do anything cosmetically that cannot...

They look like normal hinges to me. Maybe the galv or zinc plateversion so they don’t rust?