TD5 2000 Air Compressor

Any thoughts about testing, repairing the air compressor. My TD5 dragging its backside, has two new bags 6 months ago.

Tommo

First of all check the SLS fuse and relay in the engine bay fusebox.

if the fuse and relay are good check if u have voltage at the compressor's connector...if yes u need a new one, if no we'll speak about this later

Thanks guys, is there a way of checking voltage at the compressor without completely removing it.

aussieland said:

Thanks guys, is there a way of checking voltage at the compressor without completely removing it.

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U dont have to remove the compressor just the cover of it to reach the connector.

Have some sparetime this weekend, will investigate more. Will let you know if I require more help.

Cheers Tommo

Disco 2 Rear Coil Spring Conversion Kit (ZBS3027) For Sale At Brookwells Land Rover Parts

best fix .. ive done two (one 7 seater and one 5 seater )and they work great

Well, it's hard to be under a car when there is 36degress and enless sunshine at the beach.

There is voltage at the compressor, upto 14 volts when I activated the extra lift. I now believe the compressor has an issue.

A couple of questions;

Replacement vs repair? What are my options
How's best to remove exhaust hose and intake hoses, do these just pull out or do I slide back the nylon shroud first.
Do I need to order replacement 'O'rings when replacing.

1. If u find somebody who can repair your compressor and give a hand upon his work go for it....though i'm not sure it's possible.

2. U have to use a spanner on the unions/pipes(10mm if i recall well) and it wont hurt to have new o-rings too.

sierrafery said:

2. U have to use a spanner on the unions/pipes(10mm if i recall well) and it wont hurt to have new o-rings too.

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He was asking about the exhaust & intake which are the push-in type. You do have to push the collars back then the hose just pops out. The screw unions go to the valve block.

I was going to try to fix my old compressor but mine had suffered water ingress (how odd...) and the brush plate was all melted. Plus I snapped the stud holding the big end (I suspect it's left hand thread). But worth taking apart to see what's in there.

iansoady said:

He was asking about the exhaust & intake which are the push-in type. You do have to push the collars back then the hose just pops out. The screw unions go to the valve block.

Click to expand...

AAAAARRRRRRGHHHHHH .... u are right, my mistake... sorry

Well, we are up and running, thanks for the advice, finally decided to dismantle the whole unit, compressor and electric motor full of water.

Couple hours of cleaning and discovered one of the brushes was not making contact. Ripped a spring out of a blue pen to preplace a broken coil spring that loads pressure on the brushes and we are back in business. I greased the piston with bearing grease?

Inflated ok, but the electric motor was raging hot, any thoughts. Extra lift not engaging?

Valve in the piston sticking?

Just out of interest, is the bolt holding the compressor big end onto the crank RH or LH thread? Or didn't you take it off?

I didn't take if off. The big end cover is rivited on and I was not interested in extra work at 8pm with parts all over my drive. I will look to pull apart again on the weekend to check the piston, make shift spring, clean and regrease with some silcone (white) grease in the piston. The bearings were in ok shape and applied marine wheel bearing grease to test. Tommo

alright chaps, sorry to dig up the past, i have converted mine to coils, and want to remove the compressor unit, to ebay has any one ran with the connectors removed ? does it f&ck the ecu up and shi...; ?