Disco Immobiliser question

Hi,

My 96 Disco has a jamed door lock so I can't use the key in there.
Now it only came with one remote lock and that sometimes pays up and I can't lock the car and can't start it as the remote is not working.
So I asked my the guy who fixes Landrover and he said he can take out the immobiliser. I said go ahead.
Picked up the car today and I have the immobiliser unit in my hands but it's still working. So still only unlock with the remote. He couldn't understand it and neither could I.
The little black box I have in my hands has a few numbers:
AMR 4889
7TH
52010169(A)

It has one connector with 10 pins underneath. We looked on the manual he had and it said this is the immobiliser. He got a part to put in that plug instead of the immobiliser. It was fitted behind the radio in the center console.

Does anyone understand this ?
Is it possible to uninstall the immobiliser and only use the remote as central locking and if the remote does not work you just open the door with the key and start the car ??

Matt

Immobilisers arent necessarily for central locking and door workings, but more to do with disabling the engine and fuel management systems. Perhaps thats the bit you have in your hands.
Just a thought

Is it possible to disable this whole "I only start with the remote key" thing ?
Can't I just open the door and start the engine ??

Matt

one way of getting around this is to permenantly earth the starter relay, if you have a Tdi then the immobiliser only stops the engine from cranking (unless it has EDC then it does the injection pump aswell).

The starter relay is located behind the offside kick panel trim (next to throttle pedal), there's a few relays in there, the starter one has a red/white wire going to it, I cant remember the other colours off hand but you need to earth out the earth wire to this, its normally earthed by the immobiliser ECU.

The ECU that controlls central locking is located behind the glove box and is green in colour, also known as the 10AS ECU

Why dont you just get a couple of new remotes,(£30 odd + vat) and get them coded up - I charge £20 to code them - there must be an independant willing to do the same for a similar sum.Its a reliable system,why not use it ?

I got a new remote off ebay but it was from the UK and I'm in Australia. I've read somewhere they use different freq. Not sure if that's true. My guy could not program it.

I've seen the 10AS ECU. When I disconnect that central locking is not working.
When the immobiliser kicks in I have the indicators flashing and a car with a key symbol in the dash flashing.

Matt

The frequency that the system works off is written on the front of the ECU,it should be simple enough to get the right one,also if you only get one fob you can get them to read the EKA code out of the ECU.With that you can remobilise the car if the fob gets broken - its best to have at least 2 tho.Where in OZ are you ?

I'm in Tasmania.
The problem is my river side door lock is busted (was already when I bought the car) so can't morse the code.
I'll have a look at the frequencies. How can I see which freq. the remote is ?

Matt

Dealer here in Western Australia wants over $300 for a key and fob, plus another $150 to code it, and he needs the vehicle to do it (500klm round trip)
Wishe there was a cheaper way, I only have the one key.

I also only have the one.
Also is it possible that sometimes other things interfere with the remote.
I have one parking spot in town and every time I park there the remote does not work. I drive around the corner and everything is fine.

Matt

Roadrunner said:

I also only have the one.
Also is it possible that sometimes other things interfere with the remote.
I have one parking spot in town and every time I park there the remote does not work. I drive around the corner and everything is fine.

Matt

Click to expand...

Yes, that is true. The LR dealer just informed me about that problem which is normally due to under ground wires.

BUT
I still have a problem with my immobilizer.
The problem comes and goes, and has nothing to do with where the car is parked or with the voltage of the battery
Sometimes, like today, of course raining cats and dogs, suddenly coming out of the supermarket the remote does not work. Up with the spare remote - does not work.
Useing the key - the alarm blast off - but of course no starting.
Deactivated the alarm through the key turning. Alarm stays off, but no action - NO REACTION at all - when using the remotes. (Deactivating with the key should make it possible to start normally, says the works hop manual)
The gear into 5th and out into the rain and pushing a few decimeters.
Into the car - suddenly the remote works.
I drove the car back to the workshop where it has spent the last five -5- weeks. Parking and suddenly the remote is dead again.

Observed: When the car was new I could open the car with the remote at 100 meters distance (not recommended). Now I have to be very close, even with new batteries in the remotes. (when it works at all)

And now:
PLEASE what can I do? The workshop has not got a clue (Yes, the are the LR guys here in Oslo, NOrway) I cannot sleep looking forward to the bill for 5-? weeks in the WS.

H E L P

Roadrunner said:

I got a new remote off ebay but it was from the UK and I'm in Australia. I've read somewhere they use different freq. Not sure if that's true. My guy could not program it.

I've seen the 10AS ECU. When I disconnect that central locking is not working.
When the immobiliser kicks in I have the indicators flashing and a car with a key symbol in the dash flashing.

Matt

Click to expand...

Just for info:
Europe 433.92MHz and the rest of the world: 315.00 MHZ

eightinavee said:

Why dont you just get a couple of new remotes,(£30 odd + vat) and get them coded up - I charge £20 to code them - there must be an independant willing to do the same for a similar sum.Its a reliable system,why not use it ?

Click to expand...

In fact is possible to initiate the handset without any "gadgets" using the procedure in the WS handbook

Roadrunner said:

I'm in Tasmania.
The problem is my river side door lock is busted (was already when I bought the car) so can't morse the code.
I'll have a look at the frequencies. How can I see which freq. the remote is ?

Matt

Click to expand...

See above for frequencies. Yours are 315.00 MHz if bought outside Europe

abutoma said:

In fact is possible to initiate the handset without any "gadgets" using the procedure in the WS handbook

Click to expand...

Well I would love to see you do it,I think you are confusing yourself with the earlier single button fob system which you can programme fobs to without Testbook.

Well, the instruction is in the Workshop manual for Disco 96 with two knobs controller.

Its wrong then,just show us how to do it.

clutchdust said:

one way of getting around this is to permenantly earth the starter relay, if you have a Tdi then the immobiliser only stops the engine from cranking (unless it has EDC then it does the injection pump aswell).

The starter relay is located behind the offside kick panel trim (next to throttle pedal), there's a few relays in there, the starter one has a red/white wire going to it, I cant remember the other colours off hand but you need to earth out the earth wire to this, its normally earthed by the immobiliser ECU.

The ECU that controlls central locking is located behind the glove box and is green in colour, also known as the 10AS ECU

Click to expand...

My dear friend,
after spending time kneeling inn the snow I managed to get out the starter relay. Grounding it - It does not work! by the way I am not sure it is the right relay because the colour coding on the wires are different. However it wa the only relay that operated when I turned the ignition key.

I think I have tried everything except take out the spider.

But again, it should not be difficult to get a diesel engine started. But where the heck is the relay controlling the starter solenoid ????

Still waiting.

There are 2 black/orange wires on the alarm module, green plug terminals 10 and 11.

Short them to ground and your car should start.

Term. 10 is the Spider control line and term.11 is the starter motor relay inhibit.