Go buy two, cut the heads off two of yer old ones and use them for dummy studs.
Blown head gasket agian....
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Go buy two, cut the heads off two of yer old ones and use them for dummy studs.
iannotts
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and how do i get to the landy shop
Where's that fokin motorbike, and surely you have friends, family.
You aint goin anywhere wif that on Monday anyway, it's fooked, so take yer time and sort it props, before you fook a piston or smash the engine.
If it's blowing as bad as that then it could quite easily leak into a cylinder when it's sitting turned off, you crank the engine and it's cheerio engine.
Northern Irelander
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Cmon Seany boy, lets not deceive ourselves with injection injuns, same sandwich design, same LM25 alloy.
Lets face it all LR (exception of the oldies) are crap, even the RR are a pile of junk, my father had 4 of them, the latest RR 4L HSE blew a gasket big time oil everywhere.
Dont throw stones if you dwell within one of those alum framed glass houses
Lets face it all LR (exception of the oldies) are crap, even the RR are a pile of junk, my father had 4 of them, the latest RR 4L HSE blew a gasket big time oil everywhere.
Dont throw stones if you dwell within one of those alum framed glass houses
Northern Irelander
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Well if LZ was more mobile phone compatible it wudnt have been posted twice, but then you insisted you were right about the whole IT thing on LZ, now we dont even have a gallery or search facility. Dream on Seany boy
so where are these posts from Tdi engined landies with HGF ?, you really are overly anal in your defence of your freebe
so not altering the entire site codeing to suit just you who wanted to be able to use LZ on the worlds least popular browser/PDA/mobile phone combination has caused the gallery function to fail ?
the search feature isnt broken
Reet orf ter bed the both of yeer, and remember ter brush yer teef.
a think that grumpy hippo humper is staying up all night trying to find posts about HGF in 200/300 Tdi's
lets not spoil Mr Notts thread cos there's very few on this topic (hint hint Mr Hippo Humper)
a think that grumpy hippo humper is staying up all night trying to find posts about HGF in 200/300 Tdi's
lets not spoil Mr Notts thread cos there's very few on this topic (hint hint Mr Hippo Humper)
I think that it's fairly common chapie, I think it may run a bit too hot and the header tank is too low on the disco. I fitted a kenlow to mine recently and the thermostat has to be set fairly high to prevent it running all the time, and even then on switch off it comes on twice for a period of about 4 minutes to cool the engine. There also seems to be occasions of thermal cracking of pistons. I replaced the radiator on mine when I purchased it and replaced the radiator with a larger capacity one coz it was rotten and the temp sits bang on the middle, it always did.
I think that it's a good engine though, and I hope that the fan helps prevent my head gasket blowing. One chap on here said that some bikes are like that so I guess it can only be good.
that's odd - i've probably done well over 10 disco engine into 110/90 conversions now and 4 of them had a kenlowe fitted - 2 owners eventually rang to ask if the fan was wired in correctly as they'd never heard it running - simple test is to go for a quick blast then turn the stat down to C (cold) and it kicks in - and they had the viscious fan removed
so i do'nt quite understand whats going on with your's
so i do'nt quite understand whats going on with your's
My fans off as well, and the thermostat is set about three quarters way up, set it at norm and the foker runs all the time. It's bran spankin new as well. Sensor in the top hose since the bottom is too cold, perhaps thats the problem that yours aint coming on.
I know that there is a bit of an argument where it should go, but I'm sticking with the top hose that's where all the heat will be in an overheat condition, coming out of the engine not cooled returning.
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still could be defective - check it witha thermocouple.
well said - that man
well said - that man
I think that if I were testing a kenlow I would prefer to know that it turned the fan on when it got hot, so I would run the engine up to temp, then above what I considered normal and where I wanted my fan to cut in and set it there, and then make sure it pulled it down.
I fitted mine blowing through since it was too tight the other way, but it works fine, and I am off road every other day loaded to my arse. I also leave my vehicle running whilst I'm cutting in case it dont start again, leaving me stuck in no-mans-land.
iannotts
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It runs again,
Checked the head with 12" Rule in all directions - its flat!!!!
block has no signs of cracks or damage
Conclusion. the head bolts have gone past there elasticity limit so are like putty. Streatched therefore letting the head sit loose.
Will be getting a new full set of head bolts and new gasket in very near futre to hopefully cure the problem, rather than masking it like i have done at the moment.
Checked the head with 12" Rule in all directions - its flat!!!!
block has no signs of cracks or damage
Conclusion. the head bolts have gone past there elasticity limit so are like putty. Streatched therefore letting the head sit loose.
Will be getting a new full set of head bolts and new gasket in very near futre to hopefully cure the problem, rather than masking it like i have done at the moment.
When you get the bolts let us know how much the old ones stretched and make up two dummy studs for yerself.
iannotts
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If it's blowing in the same place all the time, I would say no, however they do say that these bolts should be replaced every time, but I am guilty of re-using them and have had no problems other than one breaking occasionally. I do like to check them though for length, coz I have seen some that have been stretched and they bottom out in the bolt holes, but rare. But as I said if I checked them and they were the same length as new ones then I would use them again, I think that there is a difference between stretching like an elastic band, or a road spring deflection and actually stretching them longer. They are meant to have elasticity, or ductility I think it is called, but if they are longer then they are fooked.
That's the way I have always done it, both on cars and trucks, but the manufacturer says replace them. Caching caching!!
A crack in the head wont blow it at the flame ring, unless it's right on the flame ring, so rule that out, either the head has a warp in it, a low area where it's blowing or the same on the block, or a crack in the liner where the flame ring is.
If your bolts were fooked I would have expected it to blow in different places, each time.
Make sure all the bolt holes are clear, the threads are clean by running the bolts in with the head off. Lub all the bolts to reduce friction and take it down nice and evenly from the centre outwards. In theory all you are doing is squishing a gasket between two flat surfaces.
Oh and make them dummy studs it makes such a difference.
I hope it works out for you.
do they actually stretch in length or is it the thread that stretches... if ya get my drift .... and can you see the difference . i ask because we've had trouble with wheel nuts coming loose on our wagons at work , you know lost wheel sydrome and it dont go down well with vosa ... we'r strugglin to come up with a solution that works ...
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if the wheel stud is long enuf - drill a hole thro it and fit an "R" clip - thats the usual fix on racing motors - or wire lock em or use wot they do ont buses - use a "telltale".
