Has anyone ever?

Has anyone ever made a series style "cat flap" rear window?

Im unsure weather or not to cut my existing van door in half when I king cab my 90 this year and hinge the the top..

or to buy one but they are getting rare it seems.

Yes.
hang on. I'll try to find some piccies

omg you legend!! just what i need! did you do a write up thread?

I think I'm going to either get hold of a rear bulkhead from a spare tub and put that in then the top half of my door as a rear upper tailgate.

Or just make a bulkhead out of chequer and L bracket strips to the tub and the CP to the L brackets. Not 100% sure yet.

I did it too using treweys pics as reference. Absolute doddle and didn't take me any more than an hour or two

what are the hinges called that he has used on the top? Think ill be using his pics to get my rear door to work!

IamRobbie said:

omg you legend!! just what i need! did you do a write up thread?

Click to expand...

I did but it was in 2007 and appears to have got lost......

couple of these i guess

Front Left Lower Door Hinge Land Rover Defender | eBay

Obviously Uk

Trewey said:

I did but it was in 2007 and appears to have got lost......

Click to expand...

No problem, I think i just need to jump into king cabbing my 90, I think far too much before starting things..

IamRobbie said:

what are the hinges called that he has used on the top? Think ill be using his pics to get my rear door to work!

Click to expand...

They're defender front door hinges, with a little bit ground off to allow them to open a bit wider than normal.
There's a piece of 1" box section inside and outside as bracing and 3" bolts through the lot.

Trewey said:

They're defender front door hinges, with a little bit ground off to allow them to open a bit wider than normal.
There's a piece of 1" box section inside and outside as bracing and 3" bolts through the lot.

Click to expand...

Great!

will it have to have a lip over it at the bottom so that when i put the flap down it sits over my rear bulkhead stopping water coming in?

IamRobbie said:

Great!

will it have to have a lip over it at the bottom so that when i put the flap down it sits over my rear bulkhead stopping water coming in?

Click to expand...

I pop-rivetted a bit of flat ally to the bottom to form a lip.

That's a cool idea!

Why not fit some gas struts so it stays open on its own?

harry2012 said:

That's a cool idea!

Why not fit some gas struts so it stays open on its own?

Click to expand...

Another idea is to adapt a Defender bonnet strut.

I used threaded rod, a garage t handle and locking bar and some holed brackets to pretty much replicate the series type locking mechanism. It worked extremely well, was very secure and I was quite pleased with it . If you're interested I can sketch up a quick diagram of what I made. Sold my hard top a wee while ago and the #### kept the cat flap despite me telling him it was not part of the deal

yes please, get sketching

If i can get all the bits and bobs together before i king cab mine ill be happy.

First I'm gonna split the roof then cut the sides, put in another rear bulkhead then just cut the rear door in half, bottom half to stay on the back of the tub and the top for a cat flap.

Apologies for the crudeness of this. All parts are cheaply available off Amazon, just have a search for garage door handle and the lock bar should come up too.

Basically I cut the door to size. Drilled a hole for the garage door handle and bolted this through using two long M6 bolts and nylocs. The locking bar is an elliptical shape with a square hole in the middle and two 8mm holes are either end. The square hole goes onto the pin coming from the handle (obviously) and is just tightened on with a grub screw. I then cut two lengths of threaded M8 rod to length, bent one end over on each and this bent end then goes into the locking bar with a washer and nyloc on the other side but not so tight as to stop it swivelling and a normal nut and washer on opposite side to keep it in place. I then got a short piece of box section and cut it in half and using existing bolts on opposite sides of the door I bolted it in place. I then worked out where the locking rods were best positioned and drilled holes in the brackets so that they locked home easily and securely. To hold the lock rods at the right position on the door when locked and unlocked I utilized two small pipe brackets and riveted these to the door frame so that the lock rods sat inside them.

When the door is closed down and the garage door handle is rotated the locking rods move in opposite directions and engage with the lock bracket, thus securing the door.

It sounds overly complicated but it was a piece of **** and from start to finish took me about an hour, if that. Cost of materials was no more than 25 quid

I want me bloody cat flap back now. Fat twunt, I may pay him a visit tommorow and kick over his ceramic gnomes

good info this is chaps, going to do this to my mates 110 when he king cabs his

For the bottom of the flap I just cut it down to size and riveted angle iron on both sides. This resulted in one overlapping the other underneath which wasn't a bad thing at all. I then deftly cut the ends of the angle iron to fit the shape of the door and filed down rough edges. Slap of red oxide to stop it rusting them another piece of steel riveted on top to provide a 'seal' against the tailgate when the cat flap is shut and bobs yer dad