Started my 200tdi conversion today

So far got the engine out of the donner disco (this took longer than expected) everything out of the series except for physically lifting the engine out, this will be done in the morning.

Was going to change the timing belt on the 200tdi, but, only realised after taking it off the disco that you need to be able to stop the engine turning. So now looking at doing it when back in the series.

I shall be following your thread closely as i am about to do the same to my S3

Got 2 1/4 out (which involved a trip to A&E ) cut out the bits i don't need or don't think i need... i can weld a bit if i've got it wrong... Put engine in, looked at what doesn't work, removed, adapted bits, put back in, found more bits (repeat)

Also came v. v. close to setting fire to myself... managed to 'sit' on the fuel pipe whilst grinding... suddenly realised my leg was soaked in petrol with sparks flying everywhere. That was fun.


Anyone wanting to offer a bit of guidance on clutch issues. I think i have a 2a but so much of my landy is 3 i just don't know if i have a 2a or a 3 clutch - i.e. do i need to weld a spacer on or not?

Continuing work tomorrow morning so any clutch related responses before the morning really appreciated.

MikeDowson said:

So far got the engine out of the donner disco (this took longer than expected) everything out of the series except for physically lifting the engine out, this will be done in the morning.

Was going to change the timing belt on the 200tdi, but, only realised after taking it off the disco that you need to be able to stop the engine turning. So now looking at doing it when back in the series.

Click to expand...

keep the log book for the disco,2 of my mates have had there defenders took by the police today in chesterfield because they had disco conversion engines in,they'll get them back because they are legite but its just the inconvinience,the police investigating have'nt a clue about landrovers there just taking them on the hope of finding stolen parts,at least if you got the disco log book it proves the engine's leggit and does'nt give them any bullits

cheers for advise, guy i've sold the rest of the disco onto wasn't bothered about log book, so when it comes back to me from the DVLA i will register it as scrapped and keep the book or if i have to return it keep copies.

MikeDowson said:

cheers for advise, guy i've sold the rest of the disco onto wasn't bothered about log book, so when it comes back to me from the DVLA i will register it as scrapped and keep the book or if i have to return it keep copies.

Click to expand...

are ya still allowed to self declare a scrappy ? - think i read only approved de-polluter can do that now ?

bet ya didn't take the glow plug timer/relay and loom orf ?

It didn't come with the glow plug timer but it's only £8 on eBay - what you see in the first picture is what i got.

Wiring loom... there are lots of bits of wire attached to engine, but not sure if it's the complete loom. Not a major problem, intend to re-wire the whole series anyway. Wiring in one thing i can do!

Hmm... if you can't self declare scrapped, but broke and sold all the parts what the hell are you meant to do!?

MikeDowson said:

It didn't come with the glow plug timer but it's only £8 on eBay - what you see in the first picture is what i got.

Wiring loom... there are lots of bits of wire attached to engine, but not sure if it's the complete loom. Not a major problem, intend to re-wire the whole series anyway. Wiring in one thing i can do!

Hmm... if you can't self declare scrapped, but broke and sold all the parts what the hell are you meant to do!?

Click to expand...

think they might just have removed that tick box on the new V5s - tis all coming back to me

Defenders taken by the police for dodgy engine conversions, sounds iffy, never heard anything like that before.

You put the engine in the wrong end, doesnt it go in the front.

I see like me you work out in the cold and rain, most of my mates are soft and wont venture away from their central geating and nintendo.

I think you might need a spacer on the end of the rod that goes in the slave cyclinder for the clutch, but I'm not really sure mines not done yet, and even if you do you could do that afterwards anyways.

Can someone please explain about this spacer as I haven't heard about that before. Ta

MikeDowson said:

I think i have a 2a but so much of my landy is 3 i just don't know if i have a 2a or a 3 clutch

Click to expand...

Your Landy is entirely series 3, chassis included.

TheSmiths88 said:

Your Landy is entirely series 3, chassis included.

Click to expand...

What makes you say that?


Yup, i work out in the cold, rain, snow, sleet, whatever! Garages are for wimps / those with more money than me.

I decided to put it together and try, clutch feels fine, no spacer in, will find out for certain in due course.

Its basically taken a day to mate it up to the fly wheel housing. On no article did i read that this is a bloody pain in the arse Not helped by not initially replacing the clutch so tried to line a 20 spline (?) with a 8 spline (?) doesn't work!!!

Also managed to snap the rubber engine mount but that is easy to replace.

So now comes the fun fun fun part of wiring up, building accelerator connections, working out how the exhaust will run, radiators, intercoolers and then electrics throughout.

Thinking of leaving power steering pump + reservoir in and just not connecting the hydraulic outputs... any downside to doing this? Any cool toys (compressor?) i can run off the pump?!


Oh also doing the timing belt. From what i read that will be an experience of its own.

protactor said:

Can someone please explain about this spacer as I haven't heard about that before. Ta

Click to expand...

Basically Some 2a's have 9" clutches S3 have 9.5" - so the travel isn't enough on a 9" clutch to disengage the clutch (or is it engage?!) - if you weld a 1/2" spacer then it makes it all work basically.

Well... that's my understanding of it.

I wouldnt leave the pump, bad things might happen.
If you look through my earlier thread 300tdi in a series, then you'll see some pics of where I removed the rollers from the power steering pump to make the whole thing into an idler, you just then fill up the case with gear oil and blank the input and output.

Glad to hear about the clutch, that means mine will probably work then.

MikeDowson said:

What makes you say that?

Click to expand...

well, apart from the really obvious stuff ... windscreen, bulkhead, dash, hinges, front wings, heater intake, plastic grille - all of which could easily have been retrofitted,

this detail ...

... says the chassis is also Series 3.

If you want further ID on it your clutch slave cylinder should be vertical & on the drivers side, and your axle numbers should start with a 2 [edit: if it's a 2a].

I'm exceedingly jealous of the nice shiny load leveller on your engine crane!! Good luck with the project.

I realised the body and bulk head were S3, but was working on them being retrofitted, things like the additional holes in the dumb irons at the front, which i believe were a S3 thing - they have been repalced as can be seen my welding on the chassis, so that's what made me a bit unsure about the chassis.

I'll have a look at the axle numbers tonight and see, cheers.

The load leveller was knocked together by a friend... Extremly useful little device!

Cheers for the advise on the pump Dr. P, i'll look up your post.

Hopefully get some more pics posted up tonight of where i'm up to too.

Like this thread alot - nice honest showing of a job so many, I am sure, are keen to see.

One a side note, what exactly is the deal with the drivetrain wear after a 200(t)di conversion? I know when I got my gearbox rebuilt for my series 3 the guy said alot of good boxes & diffs are shredded by higher power units. Is there any truth in this? I mean, obviously the boxes and gearing are designed for less power output and so the driver needs to drive accordingly..but I always imagined it was more about the driver in this situation? I.e. not drive on the limit the whole time..

Would be interested to hear from those who have 200tdi's in their series.

From my understanding if you drive sensibly you should be ok. I'll let you know in the future though!!!

I'll keep it updated, quite happy to admit i don't exactly know what i am doing, haven't done anything close to this complexity with vehicles before and there is a bit of intelligent guess work going on!

Failed on taking more pics though... it gets too dark too early!

To split hairs power isnt the issue its torque, the v8 will make more power than the diesel but at higher revs, therefore less torque so the 'box can take it, the 200tdi with the turbo produces loads of torque, in excess of what the box can take, its a matter of being aware what rpms the tdi produces max torque, and not booting it at this speed, I'm gonna put a boost guage on mine so I've some idea of output power.

The V8's still have bucket loads of torque and will make mincemeat of a series box if you give it hell all the time but the torque curve is different to a tdi. Not had much to do with the tdi's in series 2/3's but if you put a more powerfull/torquey engine on to standard running gear it's gonna put more strain on it.

I used to have standard transmission with the V8 but kept disintigrating diffs,so uprated to rangrover ones, after that the diffs never went but kept poping halfshafts. Got fed up of replacing them so put disco 300tdi axles on Instead, so far no probs but.......cos I've beefed up the axles the weak spot now will be the g/box. I dare say you will need rangrover diffs with a 200 tdi but I would keep the standard box and stick to standard halfshafts(your weak point) at least then when one goes you can still get home and Shafts are cheaper than a new box

like most conversions it's gonna be trial and error

jon