750x16

Is 750x16 exactly the same size as 750R16?
I'm replacing the tyres on me 109 and it's getting a bit confusing!

Yes
The R refers to the speed rating - not sure of the exact figures, but R is plenty for a 109.

Great. Cheers!

I am soon to receive (fingers crossed) some ex-wolf 7.50 16's for my SIII. It has standard 205 16's on now and a mate has suggested I will need to get new, longer studs to take the wolf rims as they are much thinker. Anyone also had to so this, or did you get away with the old studs?

I have got some wolf wheels that I only bought for the tyres. I have heard that they need longer studs. In the morning I will get the hi-lift out and fit one to my landy and I will let you know what the studs look like.....

Nice one. Are you planning to use them for general road use? Am kind of hoping to be able to get upto 60mph with them on mine.....eventually.....

Been outside and fitted a wolf rim to my Landy. The thread comes almost to the end of the nut but not quite. Must be around 80-90% through, I am not sure what the law says about it. I would probably drive mine like it because my 8spokes are a bit thicker than the standard wheels. I have had no problems. You can use the tyres for 60 mph on the road I think mine are rated to 81mph, depending on the tread pattern most need careful handling in the wet. Hope this helps.....

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t81/leew78/wheelpics001.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t81/leew78/wheelpics002.jpg

Sorry dont really know how to get the pics on so it may or may not work

Nice one Lee. Looks like a goer to me!

Don't drive your vehicle unless the wheel stud threads come right to the end of the nut (or slightly beyond) when they are tightened to the specified torque. Otherwise they could come loose with potentially disasterous consequences - I know, because it happened to me!

general rule of thumb for any nut/bolt combo is to have a minimum of three complete threads showing through the nut.

Now then this bit about the male thread coming through the nut isn't that simple. If the end of the thread could be prone to damage or rust i.e wheel studs on a mans vehicle, then the male thread should stop inside the nut. Otherwise if the end of the thread was damaged or got really rusty, the nut could be difficult to remove or irreparably damaged when it's taken off the stud.

It is simple mechanical engineering, Grunt - you need all of the thread to be in contact to cover shear stresses in the threads. It is usual good practice to allow three threads to show through. If it is prone to damage or corrosion, other preventative measures should be used. If all the thread is in contact then the corrosion can be removed when the nut is undone. a change of nut type from, say, nylock to castellated will overcome some of the problems.

ok then mr fekin know it all, how about them wheelnuts that have an end on em, yer cant have 3 threads showin on them

I was just stating what one should aim for - of course it is not always possible, but if you cannot achieve the ideal, then you are going to compromise integrity, performance or safety.

so howcome the manufacturers dint put a warning stating this when they build a new car and fit alloy wheels with one ended nuts

they make the fooking things longer. Sigh!

so if they make em longer how do they make the bit at the end of the thread wide enough to be unthreaded

Whoosh!

is that your way of conceding

nope - its my way of sayin i didna understand wot yu is on about.