Service fluids and parts....

Hello All,

I'm just building my shopping list for a major service for my 1997 4.6 V8.

So far I've got...

Engine Oil 5w/40 - 6 litres
Diff Oil 75w/90R - 4 litres
Gearbox, Transfer box, P Steering ATF Dextron III - 15 litres (!)
Brake Fluid DOT4 - 5 litres
Coolant - 11 litres

HT Leads x 8
Sparking plugs x8
Air Filter
Oil Filter
Suspension air dryer
Suspension inlet filter

The quantities were got from RAVE, and so are probably approximate.

My question is, does anyone know of any offers for fluids they've seen online or in shops anywhere recently? I've got a Halfords, and a Euro Car Parts nearby.

I like to buy OEM quality parts if possible, but Dextron III ATF is really really expensive everywhere I've looked. Around £12 a litre (and I need 15) I wasn't expecting it to be a cheap car to run, but christ!

Dont go to halfords - go to a motor factors (the people that supply garages). Much cheaper and the staff know what they're talking about!

I bought a load of Castrol GTX 10w40 from Asda Direct last week at £12 per 4 litres

B&Q (yes, B&Q) do Castrol ATF TQ DIII at a fairly competitive price - from memory around the £8 per litre mark - although I bought mine at around £60 for 12l from Broughton Lubricants last time:

Broughton Lubricants: Castrol - ATF TQ DIII - Automatic Transmission Fluid

In practice, you'll probably only manage to change around 4 - 6 litres at a time on the transmission, as half the fluid gets stuck in the top half of te gearbox. I did mine last week, and having run it for a week will change the fluid again this weekend, but also change the filter and throw in a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix for good measure.

When changing the transmission fluid, make sure you check the level with the engine idling (from cold), and after cycling through all the gears.

Transfer box fluid can be a bit of an arse - I use a small hand pump and some tubing to fill it, as I find it easier than trying to pour direct from the bottle, even the 1l bottles.

Watch out for the oil filter if you haven't changed it before - there are three versions, I think yours will be the one with the plastic ends, but worth checking against your chassis number.

I thought the gearbox had to be cold then cycle through gears leave in neutral with engine idling to check level. Coolant only needs 50/50 mix so 5-6 litres should be all you need .i got 5 litre tubs of carlube ATF for about £23 so best to shop around

MrGorsky said:

Hello All,

I'm just building my shopping list for a major service for my 1997 4.6 V8.

So far I've got...

Engine Oil 5w/40 - 6 litres
Diff Oil 75w/90R - 4 litres
Gearbox, Transfer box, P Steering ATF Dextron III - 15 litres (!)
Brake Fluid DOT4 - 5 litres
Coolant - 11 litres

HT Leads x 8
Sparking plugs x8
Air Filter
Oil Filter
Suspension air dryer
Suspension inlet filter

The quantities were got from RAVE, and so are probably approximate.

My question is, does anyone know of any offers for fluids they've seen online or in shops anywhere recently? I've got a Halfords, and a Euro Car Parts nearby.

I like to buy OEM quality parts if possible, but Dextron III ATF is really really expensive everywhere I've looked. Around £12 a litre (and I need 15) I wasn't expecting it to be a cheap car to run, but christ!

Click to expand...

if you buy your fluids in 20 ltr containers its much cheaper that's the ATF engine oil and antifreeze and even diff , don't forget pollen filters
.

defender300td1 said:

if you buy your fluids in 20 ltr containers its much cheaper

Click to expand...

I don't mind that, I mean I'll always use it. Where do I go for 20ltr containers? My local motor factors only sells 5s, as far as I'm aware.

Euro parts , partco, CPA, many just ask them or online

Buy Engine/Motor Oil For Car & Motorcycles | Online UK Suppliers | Smith & Allan

For my oil I tend to use Opie Oils online, always have an offer of some description.

Smith and Allan look like a goer.

Excellent prices, bulk buying, delivery to your door.

I hadn't heard of them before, but the internet is full of good reviews of them and their products. I'll give them a go.

Thanks for that.

Endeleus said:

When changing the transmission fluid, make sure you check the level with the gearbox warmed up, the engine idling, and after cycling through all the gears.

Click to expand...

Should be auto box cold

I'm going to print off all the relevant pages from RAVE for gearbox, brakes, engine, transfer box and all the other stuff I've spent £200 on fluids for today. Add to that the £130 quid I'm about to spend on sparking plugs, filters, washers, and a cubby box strut makes for a fairly expensive service. Nice to know everything has been changed though.

There is a place near me that rents vehicle lifts out by the hour, so rather than lie on my back in the snow I'm going to give them a whirl. Not sure what they'll make of me turning up with printed instructions, but I'm too OCD not to use the manual when I have it!

Datatek said:

Should be auto box cold

Click to expand...

Indeed it should... corrected

MrGorsky said:

I'm going to print off all the relevant pages from RAVE for gearbox, brakes, engine, transfer box and all the other stuff I've spent £200 on fluids for today. Add to that the £130 quid I'm about to spend on sparking plugs, filters, washers, and a cubby box strut makes for a fairly expensive service. Nice to know everything has been changed though.

There is a place near me that rents vehicle lifts out by the hour, so rather than lie on my back in the snow I'm going to give them a whirl. Not sure what they'll make of me turning up with printed instructions, but I'm too OCD not to use the manual when I have it!

Click to expand...

Good man nothing like a reference when you need it especially for brake bleeding personaly whist cold I would do water/ antifreeze after that
with warm engine drain oil,change filter whist its draining do air filter plug up fill up start up circulate leave to check then fuel filter where is yours in list??? Then do brakes while it all cools down , after
Brakes, check engine oil, drain auto box plug up fill up where is your auto box filter ? Start up fill up plug go through gears recheck auto box after that t box drain plug and refill
Up to level plug . Then diffs drain plug fill to level plug then ( clean hands ) spark plugs and leads one at a time that's it did I miss something



Oh yes air compressor dryer and filter

And grease you nipples

MrGorsky said:

I'm going to print off all the relevant pages from RAVE for gearbox, brakes, engine, transfer box and all the other stuff I've spent £200 on fluids for today. Add to that the £130 quid I'm about to spend on sparking plugs, filters, washers, and a cubby box strut makes for a fairly expensive service. Nice to know everything has been changed though.

There is a place near me that rents vehicle lifts out by the hour, so rather than lie on my back in the snow I'm going to give them a whirl. Not sure what they'll make of me turning up with printed instructions, but I'm too OCD not to use the manual when I have it!

Click to expand...

the only problem with renting the ramp is your gearbox needs to be cold i.e left overnight to get a correct oil level.it might be better to leave it for a couple of days untill the snow has gone and then do it on your driveway

clarkie said:

the only problem with renting the ramp is your gearbox needs to be cold i.e left overnight to get a correct oil level.it might be better to leave it for a couple of days untill the snow has gone and then do it on your driveway

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Don't think you need to be that efficient what if its just around the corner for the ramp , by hot means don't Come of a motorway and attempt checking levels or drain whist boiling hot , a small
Trip and left for too cool for at least half an hour would be Sufficient.

There is really no need to change brake fluid, you can just check and top up the diffs and transfer box. Your anti feeze will also be diluted with water so probably wont need 11 litres. If you are going to be doing the brakes be carefull if the bleed nipples are siezed in. They are easy broken. Take care with the plugs too and do them one at a time.

As for oils and fluids, a motor factors would be best. You get more for your money buying the bigger containers

defender300td1 said:

Fuel filter where is yours in list???

Oh yes air compressor dryer and filter

Click to expand...

All taken care of. I've bought an OEM kit with all plugs, filters and shizzle in it.

Air compressor filter I've got, dryer will have to wait. I've run out of cash!

The ramp is 1.5 miles up the road. If the weather doesn't change by Friday, I can leave it outside for 2 minutes. It'll soon be cold!

Thanks for all the tips, knowledge is the key.

Just so I've written it down somewhere as much as anything.

Here is what Microcat lists as whats needed for a 72,000 mile service. 1998MY 4.6 V8.

Cartridge Engine Oil Filter (1) - ERR3340
Filter Pollen Air Intake (2) - BTR8037
Battery (2) - STC1853
Kit-Air suspension drain plug (1) - STC3810
O Ring Auto Trans Strainer to Control unit (1) - RTC4276
O Ring Auto Trans fluid suction pipe (1) - RTC5818
Washer-Sealing, sump drain plug, ALSO SERVICED AS PART OF A KIT (1) - UAM2857L
Element Assy - Air Cleaner, With diesel engines (1) - ESR341
Strainer oil automatic transmission fluid automatic (1) - RTC4653
Gasket-Sump/transmission case automatic transmission (1) RTC4268
O ring, air flow meter to air cleaner with petrol engines (1) NTC3354
Plug, Sparking (8) - ERR3799

FLUID Hypoid Axle Oil (3.4l) - FLD81-1
FLUID Oil Engine (6.65l) - FLD82-1
FLUID Oil Transfer Box (2.4l) - FLD84-1
FLUID Automatic Transmission (9.1l) - FLD90-1

Labour (skilled) 5.6hrs.

Not sure why it mentions the air cleaner with diesel engines, but there you are. I've got 5.6 hours to get it all done.

Just a quick question, I need to top up my brake fluid im thinking of using Castrol Dot 4 Brake Fluid in my 90 300tdi does anyone have any views on this also could i use it to top up clutch?

Daz.