Nanocom Faults

managed to get started and went for a drive, few miles at 70mph then home, stalled on driveway but was able to get the following codes….

NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file

ROAD SPEED SENSOR OUT OF EXPECTED RANGE
Type: INVALID FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 172
OCCURRANCE = 2
---
INJECTOR TIMING VALUE OUT OF EXPECTED RANGE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 125
INJ. FLOW = 162
OCCURRANCE = 6
---



road speed sensor???

injector timing? that the bit in the middle of the FIP?

I believe the EDC gets injection timing from the CPS and Injector No.4

Inj.4 is used for the start of injection timing and this is matched to the CPS reading to check where abouts in the stroke the start of injection is....if it is too soon, it retards the FIP and if it is to late it advances the FIP.

I'd forget the road speed sensor fault for the moment, note it's accompanied by zero rpm, probably due to low voltage.
The fueling is the one to worry about. If you clear the faults, what comes back?

JohnnyCrash said:

managed to get started and went for a drive, few miles at 70mph then home, stalled on driveway but was able to get the following codes….

NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file

ROAD SPEED SENSOR OUT OF EXPECTED RANGE
Type: INVALID FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 172
OCCURRANCE = 2
---
INJECTOR TIMING VALUE OUT OF EXPECTED RANGE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 125
INJ. FLOW = 162
OCCURRANCE = 6
---



road speed sensor???

injector timing? that the bit in the middle of the FIP?

Click to expand...

Second one is your problem believe i have already mentioned it. Number four injector playing up, timing solenoid playing up or static that far out that timing solenoid can't adjust injection point correctly. What is the modulation and injection % from TDC with a warm engine at idle?

caggiano said:

I can use larger head gaskets in order

Click to expand...

Yes you can

Saint.V8 said:

I believe the EDC gets injection timing from the CPS and Injector No.4

Inj.4 is used for the start of injection timing and this is matched to the CPS reading to check where abouts in the stroke the start of injection is....if it is too soon, it retards the FIP and if it is to late it advances the FIP.

Click to expand...

CPS measures TDC, number four injector measure actual start of injection. ECU compares the two and adjusts injection timing via timing solenoid until start of injection measured by number four injector coincides with map referencing TDC for various engine speed and power requirements. If the static timing is to far retarded (delivery piston off cam) the timing solenoid may not have enough travel to correct the incorrect static timing. So not enough fuel can be provided to allow engine to run. If the OP removed the centre section and reset for 750 RPM whilst static timing was far out any further chain stretch would retard the static timing beyond the scope of a maybe failing timing solenoid.

Thanks guys, should have mentioned that I bought a new fuel temp sensor so on the nanocom it no longer shows -11

Will adjusting the middle plate on the fip help? Should I order up a new injector for number 4 then?

I managed a drive out today down the motorway (30 mile round trip) while on the move it feels fine, and acceleration is not affected. Soon as I stopped it would stall :-( so at lights I had to brake with left foot and hold the revs above 1000rpm

On the nanocom the air temp never went above -33??

Readings from nanocom while out on motorway

Speed is in kph not mph!!





Fuel temp working as it should now

Wammers would know, but I'm not sure timing modulation should be at 94%. At idle, mines around 57% and 60% at 2k rpm.

If that is at idle, modulation is way to high. With the engine at normal temp at idle, modulation should be 45 to 55%. Ideally 50%. Don't reset the centre section until you have set static correctly. It may not be needed. Special tools and a little know how for static timing though. Although you can set modulation with Nanocom by slightly undoing pump mounting nuts and tapping pump slightly towards engine. Wooden block and hammer. Nipping nuts up and running engine to check. And repeating until modulation is correct. Can take some time though. Manifold off for this job.

Ps. Obviously not at idle but much too high.

The pics were taken while on the move at 70 ish

JohnnyCrash said:

The pics were taken while on the move at 70 ish

Click to expand...

Yes i realised that after i wrote the reply. You need to check modulation at idle with the engine at normal temp. But it is still far to high. 94% i think is out of normal range for any speed. It basically means the timing solenoid is at 94% of it's available range to try and correct injection timing to match the ECU MAP for that engine speed and load.

wammers said:

Yes i realised that after i wrote the reply. You need to check modulation at idle with the engine at normal temp. But it is still far to high. 94% i think is out of normal range for any speed. It basically means the timing solenoid is at 94% of it's available range to try and correct injection timing to match the ECU MAP for that engine speed and load.

Click to expand...

Thanks, modulation is still high even at idle (not that you get much chance to look as the engine usually cuts out)

I've upped the idle value with my nanocom started at 132 I am now at 139 and so far have seen no change at all?? I don't want to keep going up and up?

so modulation, you say I can move the FIP toward the engine to correct this?

JohnnyCrash said:

Thanks, modulation is still high even at idle (not that you get much chance to look as the engine usually cuts out)

I've upped the idle value with my nanocom started at 132 I am now at 139 and so far have seen no change at all?? I don't want to keep going up and up?

so modulation, you say I can move the FIP toward the engine to correct this?

Click to expand...

If the idle value started at 132 the centre section of the pump is in the wrong position. Reduce idle value to 128 and adjust centre section for a rock steady 750. Move pump top in VERY small increments towards engine. You can use a reference line scribed on pump and engine case. If there is not enough movement to reduce modulation to 45-55% suggest you look at timing chains. If one of those parts you are in deep ****. If after all that no change you will be looking at a new injection pump.

wammers said:

If the idle value started at 132 the centre section of the pump is in the wrong position. Reduce idle value to 128 and adjust centre section for a rock steady 750. Move pump top in VERY small increments towards engine. You can use a reference line scribed on pump and engine case. If there is not enough movement to reduce modulation to 45-55% suggest you look at timing chains. If one of those parts you are in deep ****. If after all that no change you will be looking at a new injection pump.

Click to expand...

Thanks, will get my hands dirty again as soon as I can and come back to you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUUnnz_HalE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Link to video of diesel idle issue

Managed to get car started and moved centre section on fip until it stopped stalling 1200rpm. Then set the idle with nanocom to 128 then adjusted centre plate to as low as poss without stalling

When I put in gear (you'll hear reverse sensor beep) the idle levels out? ?

I know something is wrong with modulation as it jumps from 40 to 90??

JohnnyCrash said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUUnnz_HalE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Link to video of diesel idle issue

Managed to get car started and moved centre section on fip until it stopped stalling 1200rpm. Then set the idle with nanocom to 128 then adjusted centre plate to as low as poss without stalling

When I put in gear (you'll hear reverse sensor beep) the idle levels out? ?

I know something is wrong with modulation as it jumps from 40 to 90??

Click to expand...

Looks like your injection pump is knackered. You can try static timing but it maybe a lost cause.

Thanks wammers

Will give it a go and let you know

You think I would be able to replace just the centre section or should I do the full pump? ?

JohnnyCrash said:

You think I would be able to replace just the centre section or should I do the full pump? ?

Click to expand...

You could replace the centre section and see what you get, if you can get hold of a good one. Personally i would go for a complete known good or reconned pump. Obviously something is causing the quantity servo to oscillate, could be a failing timing solenoid if the modulation is bouncing around. But that is not in the centre section. A diesel specialist could maybe tell you. Where are you maybe someone could point you to one.