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Temp gauges are relatively simple things, they are reading a resistance derrived from a thermistor that gets lower in resistance as it gets hotter. There is a single wire to the 'sensor' which is effectively grounded through the sensor/thermistor...

Photo taken from another post in this group. I see a Disco II key & a Rover key. The difference I see is the extra yellow chip box. Please advise / explain what’s the difference in use or how it’s different when it’s being used. Thanks.

Which is safer than any of the newer CAN-bus technilogy these days which are easyer to be acessed by ”specialists” with proper scanners who dont even know how these old security systems were conceived. There is almost zero possibility for an...

On looking back at that video and another I just took it's moving within the bush itself. Not the mounting points on the tie bar or axle

Welp. I replaced the brake booster and it's worse... Now the first 7/8th of the pedal has no resistance and it won't build pressure, I tried to adjust what looks like an adjuster screw in the brake booster but it has not worked, when the engine...

They're torqued to spec, they shouldn't be moving at all. I don't recall the holes being ovalled but I'll remove it and check

Get a big bar & tighten them up… Has the hole ovaled ? As for video. Upload to YouTube & attach that way

I tried to upload a video but can't. I got my missus to rock the steering back and forth and everything is solid except for the panhard rod. The amount of movement in the bushes, especially the one at the steering box end, is ridiculous. I took a...

As per title my 1989 19J the gauge is reading at the very near end of the white scale, just replaced the head gasket twice (dont even go there ! ) its not boiling over tried a digital thermometer not even 70c at thermostat and 60c at head 70c at...

That worry had never crossed my mind, don't even know if that's an issue. I have never read anything about it elsewhere.

Think they have to be 'de-coded' before being removed before they can be re-coded again once fitted to the new vehicle. NB. It's possible that I am wrong though.

Snap on is OBD2 your P38 isn’t. Few might clear the fault but it won’t tell you how to stop it coming back on. You need a nanocom with the correct unlock code, test book t4 or a faultmate. If it’s stuffed a Hawkeye might do at a push, maybe?

The angle of the bulkhead will change the angle of the steering column. The UJs can obviously compensate but I would imagine only so much as they still need to be able to take into account the movement of the chassis

Sorry, I don't know what you mean with regards to the angle of the steering column. Are they not all the same and in a fixed position?

Anyone know anyone in Stoke on Trent area with this old school tech?

Im annoyed because I've got a genuine LR one acquired from the army many years ago and I've no idea where it's gone. The one I bought was 8 quid so hardly going to be outstanding quality but it's the last thing I can possibly change. Do you think...

Does anyone know if a refurbished unit can be reprogrammed? Each of the Land Rover specialists I've talked too have adamantly said no. It needs to be a new genuine unit. But yet I can find places selling refurbished units.

You are just going to have to start at the beginning and check redo everything from the radius arm to chassis bush forward. Mark each bolt with paint to show any future movement. This includes stripping down the swivels and resetting the shims...

Selling on behalf of my Father in Law. Nanocom Evolution unlocked for D2 and TD5. Used condition but plenty of life left in it. £330 including UK Delivery.

Do you have any links to a full guide for this method?

ah nice one! thanks for clarifying that for me, was thinking they may be military doors, wasn't sure. cheers

Yep, got to start somewhere, along as he is not the main driver. Also a possible downside is not earning any no claims bonus, maybe.

Mud UK do good door cards for series and military doors. I've got them on both fronts and the rear and they look smart. Had them for years and they're still solid

Think it took me about 3 hours to replace the o-rings by using come creative cutting and a lot of swearing. Still a pig of a job but not the worst.

In which case you already have the series type military doors I am referring to and have fitted to mine. In which case I believe the antiburst locks along with the correct striker will fit if you remove the door card. Also I believe the military...

No, the new tyres were step one in trying to fix it. Nothing to do with tyres or bearing.

Don't know about the F2 TD4, but my L Series F1 is known for throwing the drive/fan/aux belt (usually because of the tensioner rather than the alternator) which then gets wrapped around the main pulley and fouls the cambelt - sayonara engine...

Snap on doesn't work with the p38 you need to go old school

Ok, today started well enough, getting everything out of the car for the caroet and soind deadening. Turned less good when I failed to remove the front prop shaft, no big deal so. The real downer was the indicator light so. Those don't work any...