Disco 3 (LR3) ZF filler plug

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gstuart

gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
Posts
30,790
Location
Kent
hi

Well had another good look at the filler plug on my auto box, looks like it’s never been removed

Wondering about maybe using a dremel with a small wire wheel attached to clean it up first , or maybe a sanding wheel

Just wondered if anyone knows of some good tips please and the best way to get it out , would rather ask before hand than just going for broke and ending up in a world of grief

Many thks as always

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OK, we've been going old school recently in another thread so here is my 5pennorth.
It looks to me like a wretched Allen key type thing so, once you've done as you said and cleaned it up as best you can, you might want to use a touch of deruster around the outside of the plug, at the joint, citric acid mixed with a light oil to help it stick a bit, or your favourite other stuff. Then give it good brushing with a wire brush and a mixture of acetone (nail varnish remover NOT the non-acetone type) and ATF. Leave it and repeat. As many times as you want.
Tapping it all the way round with a drift and a hammer. Hard but not too hard. while the liquid is on it.
Once you've done all that, then give it a bash with the Allen key /spanner whatever. But try to crack it clockwise a tiny bit first.
If it starts to move the right way then just rock it a tiny bit back and forth until it starts to come free.
If all else fails, order a new one then weld a (bigger) nut or bolt onto it and use a conventional spanner or socket to get it off.
I do feel your pain. My sump plug hasn't used for ages so I syphon the oil out using a pump and a long plastic tube through the dipstick hole. don't want to risk hurting the sump, by too much action. Plus the plugs flats are a bit rounded.
 
gstuart said:
hi

Well had another good look at the filler plug on my auto box, looks like it’s never been removed

Wondering about maybe using a dremel with a small wire wheel attached to clean it up first , or maybe a sanding wheel

Just wondered if anyone knows of some good tips please and the best way to get it out , would rather ask before hand than just going for broke and ending up in a world of grief

Many thks as always

View attachment 183255 View attachment 183256
Click to expand...
clean it up and give it a few good whacks including fitting a socket type allen key and hitting that so as not to deform the hole
 
Hi

just wished post a pic of the new plugs to show them better when there new , plastic one is the drain plug

Did also buy some decent Allen key bits for them so can at least put a bar on the end

Right, now to read ur kind replies, thks as always

387B1C90-0D59-4DCF-804B-B63AD9010DC5.jpeg
D8B3BADC-2C66-4C46-88F6-266D977D62AF.jpeg
 
Stanleysteamer said:
OK, we've been going old school recently in another thread so here is my 5pennorth.
It looks to me like a wretched Allen key type thing so, once you've done as you said and cleaned it up as best you can, you might want to use a touch of deruster around the outside of the plug, at the joint, citric acid mixed with a light oil to help it stick a bit, or your favourite other stuff. Then give it good brushing with a wire brush and a mixture of acetone (nail varnish remover NOT the non-acetone type) and ATF. Leave it and repeat. As many times as you want.
Tapping it all the way round with a drift and a hammer. Hard but not too hard. while the liquid is on it.
Once you've done all that, then give it a bash with the Allen key /spanner whatever. But try to crack it clockwise a tiny bit first.
If it starts to move the right way then just rock it a tiny bit back and forth until it starts to come free.
If all else fails, order a new one then weld a (bigger) nut or bolt onto it and use a conventional spanner or socket to get it off.
I do feel your pain. My sump plug hasn't used for ages so I syphon the oil out using a pump and a long plastic tube through the dipstick hole. don't want to risk hurting the sump, by too much action. Plus the plugs flats are a bit rounded.
Click to expand...

jamesmartin said:
clean it up and give it a few good whacks including fitting a socket type allen key and hitting that so as not to deform the hole
Click to expand...

Thks so much guys and very grateful u sharing ur experience with this as I didn’t want to rush this

Casing by the looks of it is aluminium so indeed know I’ve got to be careful

Wondering if using plus gas may be an alternative for the acetone / ATF plse after I’ve cleaned it

Also got a bench grinder so wondering if I should just take the rounded bit off the end of the Allen keys

Thks again , will of course update the thread when I start doing this , got to do my front brake hoses first
 
gstuart said:
Thks so much guys and very grateful u sharing ur experience with this as I didn’t want to rush this

Casing by the looks of it is aluminium so indeed know I’ve got to be careful

Wondering if using plus gas may be an alternative for the acetone / ATF plse after I’ve cleaned it

Also got a bench grinder so wondering if I should just take the rounded bit off the end of the Allen keys

Thks again , will of course update the thread when I start doing this , got to do my front brake hoses first
Click to expand...
yes if you can square the end of the allen key it will help, i have some sockets ive done the same too for shallow nuts,ive found its the best way to keep tapping and trying, otherwise it will turn into a bigger job, it might take awhile and quite a few attempts but it rarely fails the only other option is heat and i wouldnt use a torch there
 
jamesmartin said:
yes if you can square the end of the allen key it will help, i have some sockets ive done the same too for shallow nuts,ive found its the best way to keep tapping and trying, otherwise it will turn into a bigger job, it might take awhile and quite a few attempts but it rarely fails the only other option is heat and i wouldnt use a torch there
Click to expand...

Thks buddy

Just taken a few more pics, don’t know if they show what u need to see clear enough , they look flat on the ends, but do have that rounded bit

Put it against a flat edge to try and make the ends stand out more

Wondered what u thought plse, shall I take a bit off with the bench grinder

Great ideas and appreciated as indeed always like to ask before hand

Thks again

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Clean the Allen "female" out with a dremel and a small wire wheel to clean the crust out, this will allow you to get the tool in deeper.

A good coat of penetrant and a whack with a hammer.

Constant pressure might strip it ;)
 
Also watch the sump bolts those T27's are cheese. ;)

I use a manual impact on all the bolts when they're original to negate stripping ;)

New Bolts are T40s ;)
 
Henry_b said:
Clean the Allen "female" out with a dremel and a small wire wheel to clean the crust out, this will allow you to get the tool in deeper.

A good coat of penetrant and a whack with a hammer.

Constant pressure might strip it ;)
Click to expand...

Thks, have got different bits for the dremel to ensure it’s all cleaned before hand , will just take my time

Gearbox is aluminium so got to be extra careful

Inc a 2 x foot bar if it really wants to misbehave , lol
 
gstuart said:
Thks, have got different bits for the dremel to ensure it’s all cleaned before hand , will just take my time

Gearbox is aluminium so got to be extra careful

Inc a 2 x foot bar if it really wants to misbehave , lol
Click to expand...

Shouldn't need that bar ;)

Clean penetrate and whack ;)
 
Henry_b said:
Also watch the sump bolts those T27's are cheese. ;)

I use a manual impact on all the bolts when they're original to negate stripping ;)

New Bolts are T40s ;)
Click to expand...

Thks, not touching the sump bolts , all the times I’ve read where others have removed the sump to replace the filter there all clean , so going to leave it well alone

Got 10 x litres of Mannol AG55, so after I’ve got the level plug out , will drop the oil , fit a new drain plug, refil then start the engine and wait for it to come up to correct temp, will monitor that via my iid

Plus won’t reset the adaptions at the same time, will do that later
 
gstuart said:
Thks, not touching the sump bolts , all the times I’ve read where others have removed the sump to replace the filter there all clean , so going to leave it well alone

Got 10 x litres of Mannol AG55, so after I’ve got the level plug out , will drop the oil , fit a new drain plug, refil then start the engine and wait for it to come up to correct temp, will monitor that via my iid

Plus won’t reset the adaptions at the same time, will do that later
Click to expand...

The sump is the filter ;)
One piece ;)

Be careful with the drainplug, nip it up till it stops, and thats it ;)

They strip like you wouldn't believe ;)
 
Henry_b said:
The sump is the filter ;)
One piece ;)

Be careful with the drainplug, nip it up till it stops, and thats it ;)

They strip like you wouldn't believe ;)
Click to expand...

Thks, see there’s 2 x different types of sump, Indeed my one is all one piece , other ones u have the sump and filter separate , it can stay there, lol

That’s what I thought ref the drain plug if it would strip the threads easily
 
gstuart said:
Thks, see there’s 2 x different types of sump, Indeed my one is all one piece , other ones u have the sump and filter separate , it can stay there, lol

That’s what I thought ref the drain plug if it would strip the threads easily
Click to expand...

You can get a metal "aftermarket sump" with a separate filter, however they tend to leak.

And tbh I've never had issue with the plastic sump ;)

Put some oil on the drain plug rubber and you'll be golden ;)
 
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