Disco 3 (LR3) ZF 6Hp Filler plug

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gstuart

gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
Posts
30,790
Location
Kent
hi

May i pick ur brains please

Took a few pics of my AT gearbox and really concerned ref the level / filler plug, looks like it’s never been removed and wondering if anyone else has had issues getting them out please

The small black specs are Dinitrol and not oil

Gear lever moves fine but looking at the selector plate wondering if it’s worth fitting a new one as a bit of preventive maintenance , do u think the gear cable also looks good

Alas I’ve got no experience with these gearboxes so always prefer to puts my hands up and ask

Have got new filler and drain plugs, the pan and electric plug isn’t leaking so was going to leave them alone , don’t want to start getting into snapped torx sump bolts

Or as it’s just under 100,000 should I change the pan with the combined filter along with the electrical connector seeing the oil will be drained out

Many thks as always in advance

8B51B794-ACA3-4C0A-891B-5EDE9226D58B.jpeg
9CC7102E-FA50-49B0-94A6-D41DE623616E.jpeg
DBD575CB-E142-4034-8EDA-38A8FDCC70FF.png
 
Last edited:
Make.sure you can remove filler plug before attempting any work on box, 100k? No harm in oil and filter change, I try to keep cable end greased, preferably pfte, non sticky !
 
As freelance says keep it simple, new oil, leave filter/sump alone, slap some grease on the pivot and carry on.
Dont drain the oil do as per Filos thread on the D3 forum, easy/clean/fast.
 
lynall said:
As freelance says keep it simple, new oil, leave filter/sump alone, slap some grease on the pivot and carry on.
Dont drain the oil do as per Filos thread on the D3 forum, easy/clean/fast.
Click to expand...
Modern cars have their fluid replaced via a machine simple and effective. The sump isn’t removed and the filter (if they have one) which is only a screen is also left alone, plus it a long life fluid that’s now used.
 
discool said:
Modern cars have their fluid replaced via a machine simple and effective. The sump isn’t removed and the filter (if they have one) which is only a screen is also left alone, plus it a long life fluid that’s now used.
Click to expand...

Filos thread is good read.
 
Hi

Thks so much guys and indeed will ensure the filler plug can be removed first

Personally not keen on powerflushing and the only thing is it won’t tell me what the level is like without that filler plug removed in order for me to check at the correct temp

As surely, even if I followed filos thread it still won’t tell me if the oil level is correct

Good call ref the pan as indeed will just leave it alone

Know the filler plug has to come out, suppose in the back of mind I’m worried if it snaps

From other threads I haven’t found one yet that’s reported the pan filler being dirty so by that will just leave alone

Don’t wish to start opining a big can of worms that can indeed end up getting very expensive , so hopefully , can get the filler plug out as that’s really going to be the main issue , without that coming out I can’t go any further with the job , looks like it’s fused it self if that makes sense

I’m just able to do an oil change and grease up the pivot lever , have got a tin of ceramic bread which I could use

Got a Dremel with very fine sanding discs and being careful as possible cleaning the area around the level plug

Thks so much once again and as always very grateful for the help
 
gstuart said:
Hi

Thks so much guys and indeed will ensure the filler plug can be removed first

Personally not keen on powerflushing and the only thing is it won’t tell me what the level is like without that filler plug removed in order for me to check at the correct temp

As surely, even if I followed filos thread it still won’t tell me if the oil level is correct

Good call ref the pan as indeed will just leave it alone

Know the filler plug has to come out, suppose in the back of mind I’m worried if it snaps

From other threads I haven’t found one yet that’s reported the pan filler being dirty so by that will just leave alone

Don’t wish to start opining a big can of worms that can indeed end up getting very expensive , so hopefully , can get the filler plug out as that’s really going to be the main issue , without that coming out I can’t go any further with the job , looks like it’s fused it self if that makes sense

I’m just able to do an oil change and grease up the pivot lever , have got a tin of ceramic bread which I could use

Got a Dremel with very fine sanding discs and being careful as possible cleaning the area around the level plug

Thks so much once again and as always very grateful for the help
Click to expand...

Just wire brush round the plug, spray with plus gas penetrating fluid a few times for a couple of days before attempting to undo
 
gstuart said:
Hi

Thks so much guys and indeed will ensure the filler plug can be removed first

Personally not keen on powerflushing and the only thing is it won’t tell me what the level is like without that filler plug removed in order for me to check at the correct temp

As surely, even if I followed filos thread it still won’t tell me if the oil level is correct

Good call ref the pan as indeed will just leave it alone

Know the filler plug has to come out, suppose in the back of mind I’m worried if it snaps

From other threads I haven’t found one yet that’s reported the pan filler being dirty so by that will just leave alone

Don’t wish to start opining a big can of worms that can indeed end up getting very expensive , so hopefully , can get the filler plug out as that’s really going to be the main issue , without that coming out I can’t go any further with the job , looks like it’s fused it self if that makes sense

I’m just able to do an oil change and grease up the pivot lever , have got a tin of ceramic bread which I could use

Got a Dremel with very fine sanding discs and being careful as possible cleaning the area around the level plug

Thks so much once again and as always very grateful for the help
Click to expand...


The idea of filos method was you got a lot more oil out than simply draining it via the sump drain plug, measure what came out, put exact same amount back in then check level.
 
lynall said:
The idea of filos method was you got a lot more oil out than simply draining it via the sump drain plug, measure what came out, put exact same amount back in then check level.
Click to expand...
The fluid measurement/adding procedure for the 6hp26 isn't quite that simple.
 
lynall said:
The idea of filos method was you got a lot more oil out than simply draining it via the sump drain plug, measure what came out, put exact same amount back in then check level.
Click to expand...

Hi

Ah i see, would indeed be good to get out as much as possible

So if I may clarify please ) -

1) use filos method first to get out as much oil as possible , also measuring amount what comes out
2) get the level and sump plugs out, ( level plug first ) then fit new sump plug
3) refill oil up to level plug,, believe u can simply leave the level plug out so with the engine running can keep topping up
4) start engine
5 ) monitor atf temp via iid , allow landy to reach 35 c , button up just below 40 c max and torque both plugs

Think I’ve got some spare hose around alas don’t know what size though , will have a look in filos link to see if he specified the size

Thks again and always appreciated
 
Last edited:
dieseldog69 said:
I would be tempted to just take it off and clean it up first and give it the full check up.

Ref yo filler plug, I believe the ZF 6HP was considered maintenance free sealed for life type tranny,
Click to expand...

Hi

Apologises, copied u reply here as I somehow had done a double post

Many thks, indeed it even says in the owners manual that there supposed to sealed for life and now finding out that’s a load of tosh
 
gstuart said:
Hi

Ah i see, would indeed be good to get out as much as possible

So if I may clarify please ) -

1) use filos method first to get out as much oil as possible , also measuring amount what comes out
2) get the level and sump plugs out, ( level plug first ) then fit new sump plug
3) refill oil up to level plug,, believe u can simply leave the level plug out so with the engine running can keep topping up
4) start engine
5 ) monitor atf temp via iid , allow landy to reach 35 c , button up just below 40 c max and torque both plugs

Think I’ve got some spare hose around alas don’t know what size though , will have a look in filos link to see if he specified the size

Thks again and always appreciated
Click to expand...


Nah way to complicated, remove top oil cooler hose, (cant remember if oil comes out of cooler or hose thinks its the cooler stub!) add an extension hose to the hose/cooler stub than start engine and watch oil in the container when it stops rising switch off engine, using a pump put back in via the rubber cooler hose the exact same amount of oil you took out, refit the cooler hose then run it a bit and check the level via the level plug, no need to remove the drain plug at all.
Literally 30 minutes max.

I use a vac pump to run the oil into as it has handy quantity marks on the side and an oilsafe pump to put the oil back in, but Im sure a garden sprayer minus the spray bit would do just fine.
 
lynall said:
Nah way to complicated, remove top oil cooler hose, (cant remember if oil comes out of cooler or hose thinks its the cooler stub!) add an extension hose to the hose/cooler stub than start engine and watch oil in the container when it stops rising switch off engine, using a pump put back in via the rubber cooler hose the exact same amount of oil you took out, refit the cooler hose then run it a bit and check the level via the level plug, no need to remove the drain plug at all.
Literally 30 minutes max.

I use a vac pump to run the oil into as it has handy quantity marks on the side and an oilsafe pump to put the oil back in, but Im sure a garden sprayer minus the spray bit would do just fine.
Click to expand...

Perfect , thks buddy

All I’ve got to do now is pay someone to give me a hand , lol , really Don’t think I’ll manage on my own

Goes in for its MOT on the 3rd July and the mechanic there said he will do a service but not the auto box

So for the service I’ve got
New drain and fill plugs as req, for transfer, diffs, engine,
Millers EE 5/30 engine oil
Genuine engine oil filter
Mahle fuel filter , as per very 2 x years

So at least then it’s just the ATF to do

Have got one of the manual vacuum pumps and a new garden sprayer

Thks again as always

E325579F-1B96-455A-A4B3-067D024995B6.jpeg
 
Hopefully this will help and also keep all the info i one place

Diagram of which way the oil goes

C5F8EC82-4429-4F4D-BFC8-EF34D9991963.png
 
gstuart said:
Hopefully this will help and also keep all the info i one place

Diagram of which way the oil goes

View attachment 180581
Click to expand...

What an incredibly arse backwards way of cooling the fluid, goes in hot at the bottom and returns cold out the top?

Hot in the top and cold out the bottom, unless of course they have managed to completely alter thermal dynamics?
 
dieseldog69 said:
What an incredibly arse backwards way of cooling the fluid, goes in hot at the bottom and returns cold out the top?

Hot in the top and cold out the bottom, unless of course they have managed to completely alter thermal dynamics?
Click to expand...

Ah! Ze Germans are very clever you know ;) :D .... Of course it could be that LR have fecked it up (Surely not :rolleyes:) - or, perhaps the flow reverses on TQ lockup as it does in the 4HP22/4..

I love this "sealed for life" sh*te - it's hilarious - what they actually mean is that the best way of us selling you another in short order is to "make" you keep the same oil in it for ever, thus completely knackering the thing in short order .... yours sincerely, the large corporate numskies .

Being cynical, I would also suggest that the reason such things require such advanced additive packs in their lubrication is so that these will degrade in shorter order .... making you go back for another new one :rolleyes: .... How environmentally responsible :rolleyes::mad:
 
dieseldog69 said:
What an incredibly arse backwards way of cooling the fluid, goes in hot at the bottom and returns cold out the top?

Hot in the top and cold out the bottom, unless of course they have managed to completely alter thermal dynamics?
Click to expand...

Hiya

I was thinking that , maybe there theory is as heat will normally rise through the stratification layers they put the hot fluid in the bottom so as it rises has the full effect of the cooling fan and surface area of the rad , with there being a larger area maybe it cools better that way round

Clutching at straws really, lol
 
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