Yet another MOT Failure but nearly all solutions found but a few questions

The-Wappy-One said:

Excellent thanks for that.... Made me feel better lol and like wise I'll assume all the power in lo and hi are just going to the rear as there's no prop, so it's just going to spin the drum.

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yup, you'd need to stick it in diff lock to go anywhere.

re the bolts, see when you took the drum off you had the circular thing with the bolts in it. that's the rear output flange. the bolt heads are either rounded off or the flange has worn where the bolts turn. They are held in place by a big circlip, hope you have large external circlip pliers..

You'll need to undo the 30mm nut and remove the flange to have a butchers.. but! that's the rear oil seal behind there.. the ones that leaks all the time. So you might as well renew the bugger and all the transfer box oil will start to **** on you, so drain it all out first.

Sorry, that lil bolt spinning is about to cause you a bit of work

Btw, you can buy lil flange kits which come with a new flange, seal, felt washer and metal shield, they are roughly 16quid.

When the props off, check the ujs and splines for play and grease it all up.

The-Wappy-One said:

I jumped on the breaks and stopped it, tried to drive and nothing.. Not in low or high. So i put the diff on and it drove but in low or high it does nothing....

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not sure what you mean there. If the rear prop is off and you aren't in diff lock then you won't be able to drive anywhere. If you are in diff lock then power should go to the front prop and you can drive. Be carful though, the handbrake drum is only held on by those 2 screws with the prop off. It could come off!

or if you have a welder.. you might get away just welding the bolt in place as it is and replace it all in the future.

trax said:

or if you have a welder.. you might get away just welding the bolt in place as it is and replace it all in the future.

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I thought I might as well replace it saves a job in the future...

So the kit turned up yesterday and for the protective cover is different than my original.... I just want to make sure it's ok to use the replacement instead of the original?

The one on the left is the original and the one on the right is the replacement.


Edit - The original sits on the outside and the replacement sits on the inside over the seal.

The-Wappy-One said:

I thought I might as well replace it saves a job in the future...

So the kit turned up yesterday and for the protective cover is different than my original.... I just want to make sure it's ok to use the replacement instead of the original?

The one on the left is the original and the one on the right is the replacement.


Edit - The original sits on the outside and the replacement sits on the inside over the seal.

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Yep, they come with different dust covers now. As far as I can tell, it's upto you which you want to use. But it is meant to be one or the other.

This sounds a bit nuts and will probably fail, but having looked at it, i stuck the smaller one on first and then the outer as well. Thinking the oil seal with seal using the outer wall and the inner, and not the rear.. if that makes sense.

I'm expecting it all to leak anyway, as I followed a guide saying to lube the seal.. and james says don't, so meh! Time will tell.

ahh i was going to grease up the seal as a guide i followed said to as well lol ahh well damit i'll skip it i got an extra seal anyway, see how it goes without lube.

Thanks for the reply. and if they fit i'll slap both on too

The-Wappy-One said:

ahh i was going to grease up the seal as a guide i followed said to as well lol ahh well damit i'll skip it i got an extra seal anyway, see how it goes without lube.

Thanks for the reply. and if they fit i'll slap both on too

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Well, they fit, but probably not as intended :lol:

here's the thread where james mentions it http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/t-box-oil-seals-224064.html

the mudshield in picture is the earlier version used with seal frc7043 ,later mudshield uses seal ftc4939 sheild rubs on an external lip on the seal in an attempt to keep dirt etc away from seal earlier mudshield as in pic can be used with either seal, later mudshield only with later seal

no lube on the outside edge and its all fitted thanks guys.

just another question . sorry but

HOW THE B0110K5 DO YOU REMOVE THE DROP ARM TO FIT STC2848?????? LOL

jamesmartin said:

the mudshield in picture is the earlier version used with seal frc7043 ,later mudshield uses seal ftc4939 sheild rubs on an external lip on the seal in an attempt to keep dirt etc away from seal earlier mudshield as in pic can be used with either seal, later mudshield only with later seal

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yeah the kit i used had ftc4939, we'll see what happens.. probably a leak :lol:

The-Wappy-One said:

no lube on the outside edge and its all fitted thanks guys.

just another question . sorry but

HOW THE B0110K5 DO YOU REMOVE THE DROP ARM TO FIT STC2848?????? LOL

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It's either, not too bad or it is a nightmare and needs cutting off. If you have an engineering place near you, i would take the box off and ask them to take it off.

they will hammer off especially with force of a puller applied at the same time

Thanks you two! Got it sorted today. Still attached I was getting nowhere.. So took it off today and once off gave the drop arm a gentle tap with a 2.5lbs lump hammer and i came off no problems...

No before I put it back i noticed this (see pic.) behind the final seal there were lots of fragments of what appears to be a metal seal... Not the only metal in the seals I was was just after the circlip but that was hole... So where are these metal fragments from? And I've included a pic of what I can see behind the seals and it's lots of little rolls (all the at diffrent heights) is this ok or is the metal fragments something that covered these?

you need to rebuild or replace steering box thats the cause of your leak ,its the bottom needle bearing thats broken allowing shaft to move