Yet another MOT Failure but nearly all solutions found but a few questions

Yes its that time of year its MOT time and, well i expected a huge failure but it wasn't as bad as first thought.

Heres the list and if i've allready solved it i'll say

001 Near side (Sill) Seatbelt Anchorage prescribed area excessively corroded.
Orded a new outer sill from YRM

002 Windscreen Damage to an area in excess of 10mm

Now this i've been told i cant repair due to the chip "Milking" and it will be a new screen, i've been quoted £130 BUT after a search on here i've found that for a 93 200tdi there not bonded and can be done yourself, i've found a local one for £30 but where can you purchase the seals from?

003 Inner wing excessively corroded near the break master servo/cylinder

Orded a new Wing from YRM

004 Steering box has significant oil leak

Its leaking from the drop arm and i've orded a new seal kit to hope this fixes it

005 Parking Break leaver has no reserve travelnow thisI've always tightened the little nut on the side of the drum but last time i tightened it at certain points it would catch and stop the car at slow speeds , a local dealer told me to slaken it off as its caused by warping in the drum, so i slakend it off and it fixed it but from what the MOT is saying its obviously still too loose so would i need to replace the drum? the shoes, shorten the cable?


ADVISORY

2 x Rear Tyres

Simple fix

Child seat

well tough that's staying in

and Corrosion to the boot floor

and as he put it. "its that bad i can see more carpet than floor from underneath, but i can't fail you for that as much as i want to"
well thats my next summer fix and its the lot that needs doing, but allready looking at this for that fix (Land Rover Discovery 1 Rear Tub Floor Assembly - YRM Metal Solutions)


So really im looking at 002 can i repair it? and where can i buy the seals from? and 005

as usualy from me any help is appreciated and a special thanks to people whos posts have already provided me with most of the answers!

Personally for £130 I would get the screen fitted, the seal will be £40-50 and you need to either know what your doing or be prepared for lots of swearing as you try to string it in...

Jongould said:

Personally for £130 I would get the screen fitted, the seal will be £40-50 and you need to either know what your doing or be prepared for lots of swearing as you try to string it in...

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well thats what i'm thinking now. i've just found the part no MWC8304 and the cheapest is £70 but slightly curious due to the costs i've just called the guy that quoted me back and he says that's £130 without seals if he needs a seal it will be £210 and from what i know mine are from original and they are cracking and showing there age.. not sure if they could be reused?

not sure an outer sill will sort your inner wing

can't you use your insurance for a window

dyte said:

not sure an outer sill will sort your inner wing

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Dam you copy and paste. forgot to change , thanks now sorted

dyte said:

can't you use your insurance for a window

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and my Insurance excess is £90 and if i can get it for a few quid more i'd rather do it via 3rd party or myself saves the robbing gits finding an excuse to charge me more on my next renewal



Edit : (Rather than Double post)

Just found this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/432635-post5.html so from what im reading it is like that...

Im now thinking £30 for the screen then £93 (inc vat) for the seal (may also sort my wet foot well out as im reading seals can be the cause) hmmm im gonna have to think about this...... food for thought.. only handbrake left !!! TO THE SEARCH BAR!

The-Wappy-One said:

Dam you copy and paste. forgot to change , thanks now sorted


and my Insurance excess is £90 and if i can get it for a few quid more i'd rather do it via 3rd party or myself saves the robbing gits finding an excuse to charge me more on my next renewal



Edit : (Rather than Double post)

Just found this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/432635-post5.html so from what im reading it is like that...

Im now thinking £30 for the screen then £93 (inc vat) for the seal (may also sort my wet foot well out as im reading seals can be the cause) hmmm im gonna have to think about this...... food for thought.. only handbrake left !!! TO THE SEARCH BAR!

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thats not bad to be fair, it won't go againt your no claims and you don't even need to call the insurance just call autoglass directly that way if they make an arse of it they pay for another screen .

dyte said:

thats not bad to be fair, it won't go againt your no claims you don't even need to call the insurance just call autoglass directly that way if they make an arse of it they pay for another screen .

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Cheers Dyte, just called autoglass and explained it and the guy was really nice and he explained they will replace the seal too... so looks like i've solved that problem lol ;-) just gonna double check with adrian flux then i'll just go straight to Autoglass and then let them sort it.

i've been told i probably wont get a NCB for this year tho

I had my screen replaced a week last Saturday. £80 on the insurance including all new trims and seals. It took two fitters two hours to remove the old and fit the new. I sat eating bacon butties and drinking tea

Do yourself a favour - go through the insurance but check if it affects you premium first.

auf_wiedersehen_pet said:

I had my screen replaced a week last Saturday. £80 on the insurance including all new trims and seals. It took two fitters two hours to remove the old and fit the new. I sat eating bacon butties and drinking tea

Do yourself a favour - go through the insurance but check if it affects you premium first.

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Just checking the document now as A Flux are now closed, but reading the fine print i have to pay £90 then a further £50 as i have PNCB but still with new seals and all for £10 quid extra... but yea it makes scene to go down that insurance route. plus the idea of watching them struggle while having a tea in the sun with a bacon buttie is a good one

The-Wappy-One said:

Just checking the document now as A Flux are now closed, but reading the fine print i have to pay £90 then a further £50 as i have PNCB but still with new seals and all for £10 quid extra... but yea it makes scene to go down that insurance route. plus the idea of watching them struggle while having a tea in the sun with a bacon buttie is a good one

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don't phone the insurance trust me they will find a way not to pay out ie. its an old chip bla de bla just go direct with autoglass they check on there system if your covered

dyte said:

don't phone the insurance trust me they will find a way not to pay out ie. its an old chip bla de bla just go direct with autoglass they check on there system if your covered

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Yea just reading they pretty much do it all first so just gonna go with it as i have PNCB anyway so shouldn't effect it.

I'll keep you lot updated on what the outcome is.

now my last problem just a update i've tightened the handbrake with a quarter turn and yes my handbrake is on within 3 clicks but a little roll backwards and then creeks and then stops and same pulling forward at the same point it stops /slows so something is now catching? is it the time for new shoes and a cable? or just shoes?


EDIT: I've just read on several posts about the Drum having a lip on in and tbh that would explain the sticking as it rolls as the lip is hitting the shoes. would i need a new drum or can it be rubbed out?

Edit 2 :
Just found this now http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/handbrake-shoes-renewal-98882.html im just gonna take it off and renew the lot... only way to tell but glad i found that post or i garuntee i'd have been screaming for weeks trying to get the piston things back in...

dyte said:

don't phone the insurance trust me they will find a way not to pay out ie. its an old chip bla de bla just go direct with autoglass they check on there system if your covered

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I'm with A Flux and the process could not have been easier. Simple and polite phone call to check policy details, transferred to fitters to check car details, courtesy call before arrival, polite and efficient fitters.

10/10 :clap2::clap2::clap2: for Flux.

Steps back and watches blue touch paper burning.

The-Wappy-One said:

I'll keep you lot updated on what the outcome is.

now my last problem just a update i've tightened the handbrake with a quarter turn and yes my handbrake is on within 3 clicks but a little roll backwards and then creeks and then stops and same pulling forward at the same point it stops /slows so something is now catching? is it the time for new shoes and a cable? or just shoes?


EDIT: I've just read on several posts about the Drum having a lip on in and tbh that would explain the sticking as it rolls as the lip is hitting the shoes. would i need a new drum or can it be rubbed out?

Edit 2 :
Just found this now http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/handbrake-shoes-renewal-98882.html im just gonna take it off and renew the lot... only way to tell but glad i found that post or i garuntee i'd have been screaming for weeks trying to get the piston things back in...

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Take the drum off to check for scoring and any oil leaking from the seal, check shoes for contamination/ wear.

If OK, adjust shoes first, (the bolt is right hand thread so it has to rotate clockwise to open out the shoes)... then take slack out of cable with adjuster in the cab

It may help to spray lube at underneath of adjuster threads as they get corroded ...

Dippypud said:

Take the drum off to check for scoring and any oil leaking from the seal, check shoes for contamination/ wear.

If OK, adjust shoes first, (the bolt is right hand thread so it has to rotate clockwise to open out the shoes)... then take slack out of cable with adjuster in the cab

It may help to spray lube at underneath of adjuster threads as they get corroded ...

Click to expand...

Well i know things were looking too easy... i've removed two of the nuts 14mm connecting the prop shaft to the drum but then i try the last two and they just spin freely with no resistance, if i try to tighten them they spin freely again.. i'm going to assume this probably indicates to a problem. before i start hacking with my angle grinder, am i missing something or is there a bigger problem?


Wow ok managed to get it down to 1 nut now as i was able to hold the drum and spin a rear wheel with my foot effectivly jamming the bolt and then undid, that isn't working for the last one but managed to get it half off, i will get there lool

Well finally got it all removed... And it was harder than I thought lol...

As you can see from the pics there full off gunk. Gonna replace the shoes but what can I do about the bolts that won't tighten?

New Shoes are on FINALY!!!!!!! i for the love nor money can't get those securing springs in (the ones that go from the rear of the drum through the shoes) so for now i've left them

BUT as the Prop shaft is removed i've got the break just right but as i rotate its still catching, you can hear it grinding and it slowing as you rotate it, so there is still too much play in the handbreak, am i missing something the drum looked fine but i have to assume it is out of shape by a few mm, but when searching i cant find anything on it? or anyone with the problem? so is that the cause?

So things to do on the brake. still

Figure out how to replace the bolts that connect from the prop to the handbreak (as two of the heads are rounded) and possibly fit a new drum unless im missing something?

Any help is appreciated. even if its to me that is the problem? lol

Edit i tink im over complicating it .....

Gonna try take up the slack in the handbreak cable first

Well learn something new every time with these (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f8/15585d1272892579-adjusting-me-handbrake-clipboard01.jpg)

Right i've tighten it as much as i can so i can only amuse the cable is at its limit. so i'm gonna have to change that too. and from the pics above would i assume that is the seal from the transmition on its way out?

I'm at my wits end and my amateur skills and knowledge are showing... But i have a question..
(remember my rear prop is still removed)
The handbrake is now fine. I i let down the car and removed the bricks and the Landy started to roll.. I jumped on the breaks and stopped it, tried to drive and nothing.. Not in low or high. So i put the diff on and it drove but in low or high it does nothing.... I can see the handbrake drum spinning but nothing apply the handbrake and that's fine it locks the drum.. But from the looks the handbrake only locks the rear tyres... Is this the case? Or have I got a problem....?

that's the case . h/brake only does rear unless dif locked

uncle albert said:

that's the case . h/brake only does rear unless dif locked

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Excellent thanks for that.... Made me feel better lol and like wise I'll assume all the power in lo and hi are just going to the rear as there's no prop, so it's just going to spin the drum.