Yet another air suspension problem

2004 Range Rover L322 4.4. lpg conversion
Battery went flat so jump started, "Air suspension inactive" did the steering wheel reset and the fault clear from the dash but the lights on the suspension control were out, fault code reader gave ecu fault but wouldn't delete the code. I then tried a hard reset, disconnected the battery, connected the two leads together and left for 15 mins, reconnected and ecu fault still showing but this time I was able to reset it and the lights are now on the suspension control, only problem now compressor does not work? I checked the fuse and tested the relay and they are fine. Am I missing something or is the pump knackered, is there something else I can try before getting another pump? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Fully charge the battery with a battery charger or fit a known good fully charged one & see what happens.

Ratae said:

Fully charge the battery with a battery charger or fit a known good fully charged one & see what happens.

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Battery condition is very important.
+1

Thanks for the replies, bettery is now fully charged but still no compressor. Unless something is wrong with the pump I don't know what else would stop it working. Any other suggestions, Thanks

You could try unplugging it and directly connecting 12V to see if it runs ? The relay should be a 40A, so use thick wires to test it !! Also you need to confirm there is actually 12V getting to the pump when the relay is triggered. If the contacts are burnt inside, the relay will engage but not pass enough power to the pump.

waspie30 said:

Thanks for the replies, bettery is now fully charged but still no compressor. Unless something is wrong with the pump I don't know what else would stop it working. Any other suggestions, Thanks

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Have you checked the compressor electcal connector block? They have been known to need adjusting as the pins don't always make a good contact. if you earth the orange wire and it runs then the thermal switch is fecked.Welcome by the way.b this connector.the wire looks more pink on this one. Bloody photo didn't load..

So I put a jumper across the relay socket and the compressor worked so I have ordered a new relay. If that doesn't help I'll have to try somehting else
I hope I can get it sorted soon, had to drive a renault clio today never a nice experience

waspie30 said:

So I put a jumper across the relay socket and the compressor worked so I have ordered a new relay. If that doesn't help I'll have to try somehting else
I hope I can get it sorted soon, had to drive a renault clio today never a nice experience

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If the relay doesn't do the job does the fuse box smell burnt,well known failure ,there is a member on here who may be able to help but he may be busy now lockdown is ending.

seem to remember mr china have a smiler problem had to clear the fault from memory before compressor would start

waspie30 said:

So I put a jumper across the relay socket and the compressor worked so I have ordered a new relay. If that doesn't help I'll have to try somehting else
I hope I can get it sorted soon, had to drive a renault clio today never a nice experience

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I was wondering if you'd swapped for a known good relay. On the P38 you can force the compressor to run but if it won't it is usually a fried thermal switch from overrunning, usually from feeding a leak or conpressor piston seal is worn and not producing enough air.

Grrrrrr said:

I was wondering if you'd swapped for a known good relay. On the P38 you can force the compressor to run but if it won't it is usually a fried thermal switch from overrunning, usually from feeding a leak or conpressor piston seal is worn and not producing enough air.

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My bad,just seen it's not a P38

tomcat59alan said:

My bad,just seen it's not a P38

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Yes. I keep missing that.

Whenever we see "air suspension problem" or "EAS problem" we automatically assume P38. Tells you something there

I know what you mean about the P38 had one with all the usual problems. So finally got this sorted, replaced the relay and cleared the fault, everything started to work except o/s/r would no raise and as soon as I drove it the fault returned and I was right back where I started. So I took it to a local landrover specialist and turns out it was the o/s/r height sensor, so now it is all fixed and working. Now I'm just waiting for the next problem, although I do have to find the parasitic drain that keeps killing my battery.
Thanks for all the help and advice

waspie30 said:

I know what you mean about the P38 had one with all the usual problems. So finally got this sorted, replaced the relay and cleared the fault, everything started to work except o/s/r would no raise and as soon as I drove it the fault returned and I was right back where I started. So I took it to a local landrover specialist and turns out it was the o/s/r height sensor, so now it is all fixed and working. Now I'm just waiting for the next problem, although I do have to find the parasitic drain that keeps killing my battery.
Thanks for all the help and advice

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For your parasitic drain you want to insert your multimeter between battery lead and battery post and then start pulling fuses (unless you are fortunate enotuh to have a low current clamp on DC meter so that you do not have to break the circuit).

Most battery drain problems seam to be the RF receiver picking up stray signals from all the modern wifi stuff, door bells, weather stations and other cars.

Sorry my bad i was thinking p38 on the l322 there are quite a few usual suspects the lcm the final stage resistor the head light wipers the rear entertainment pack etc

brianp38dse said:

Most battery drain problems seam to be the RF receiver picking up stray signals from all the modern wifi stuff, door bells, weather stations and other cars.

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L322 as well?