P38A Won't turn over on the key

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52 classic said:
A Range Rover was always on my 'one day' list but I could not have entertained running one without the LZ back up crew.
Click to expand...
+1
Only 40a fuse I have in there is for ABS pump
(below the 30a EAS/SM)
Mine are rated same as in owners manual.

Grrrrrr said:
If it were me I'd have the starter on its own circuit.
Click to expand...
Like mine... :D
 
Taken from owners manual of 1995 DT

Under bonnet
730B5C01-C6EF-48DD-913F-4E6D3A127DE5.jpeg 47B2CC37-346A-4C41-A8E3-5382F627406B.jpeg

Right hand seat
32006BED-1FAB-45A1-83C8-D4D09FD690CD.jpeg B59CCAB3-27E8-4B70-84A4-82C1A3093A70.jpeg
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Taken from owners manual of 1995 DT

Under bonnet
View attachment 215645 View attachment 215646

Right hand seat
View attachment 215647 View attachment 215648
Click to expand...

Only difference seems to be that Maxi fuse position 2 is empty on my car, but fuse 40 has been wired to replace it uprated to 40A. There have been no alterations to my car and of course it has worked up to now. I found a topic on this subject
going back to 2018. seems that other cars late 2000 have been wired this way.

Starts on the key but I think it is the EAS compressor which is blowing the fuse. I replaced it with a cheapish aftermarket one at the start of lockdown so I removed the EAS relay for the time being and as long as the system stays full of air it appears to be fine. Fuse stays OK. I'm going to do some research on the dessicant. Others have mentioned it previously.
 
52 classic said:
Only difference seems to be that Maxi fuse position 2 is empty on my car, but fuse 40 has been wired to replace it uprated to 40A. There have been no alterations to my car and of course it has worked up to now. I found a topic on this subject
going back to 2018. seems that other cars late 2000 have been wired this way.

Starts on the key but I think it is the EAS compressor which is blowing the fuse. I replaced it with a cheapish aftermarket one at the start of lockdown so I removed the EAS relay for the time being and as long as the system stays full of air it appears to be fine. Fuse stays OK. I'm going to do some research on the dessicant. Others have mentioned it previously.
Click to expand...

That's because Dopey had a mystery leak and eventually Saint had a look and found the air-dryer leaking. If it has ever had a hole in the exhaust I would be checking that line or bypassing it.
 
Suspension is staying up fine with the relay removed and of course the pump not running, but it can't last forever. I still have my old (original) pump and the plan is to recon that before the weekend and then swap them over and put the relay back in. The desiccant thing sounds like a reasonable precaution and it sounds like the preference is to replace the bottle rather than the stuff itself. Is there a recommended supplier?
 
Fair enough wammers. Didn't understand the significance of the change point - Well that's my excuse.

Latest news is that the fault appears to be fixed. After running around for a few days with the available air in the tank, I used a repair kit on the OLD compressor and refitted it, Fuse has stayed intact, plenty of air so far and normal starting is resumed!
Must admit that I still have a shunt wire in the console, just in case things go awry! Next, I'll approach the vendor of the replacement compressor and in the meantime get and fit a replacement drier.

Thanks again one and all.
 
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