wont start, dead-only relays chattering - weird

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n18rks

New Member
Posts
101
Location
Rayleigh, Essex
Hi all,

I thought that i got away too lightly when i bought the P38 a year ago with not having any faults to speak about since but it looks as if things have caught up with me.I have a X reg 2000 4.0 petrol HSE - love the vehicle hate the thought of pending faults.located in SE Essex - nr souffend

I currently have a major really wierd fault that i am sure someone will be able to help with, so here go's.

Drove out on saturday, stopped at various places, moved on with no probs, then when we tried to go home engine was dead - engine not cranking over - clicking from engine bay, feint lights on dashboard,message saying ignition key in started off dim then got brighter????? - central locking work all ok.

With key in ignition and turned to III position, switch on lights everything goes dead as if there is a dead short or flat battery.At one point saw gearbox fault, sunroof not set, fenster something? and other messages too many mention/remember.Then got key code lock out message - tried to remember code and go through turning key in lock process but think i got wrong code. Eventually got correct code and followed procedure.Still no joy, ended up jumping it from another vehicle and got home.Approx 25minute drive - enough time to put some juice into battery.

Once home, switched off engine - tried to start it again - dead - no engine crank only a chattering relay(s).lights on dashboard flickering, ride height lights x 4 flickering, auto gearbox red led flickering????

Charged battery overnight - tried again no joy, exactly the same - battery is approx 4 weeks old as old one was u/s.Central locking working ok - when i put the key in ignition and try to start - nothing, as i turn key back to take out i get messages: gearbox fault, windows not set .Still not starting - only relays chattering ......................help!!!!!!!

Any help offered gratefully received.
 
Hi, new battery has worked faultless for a few weeks, charged battery sunday and its holding its charge.May still have a charging problem but need to get engine started before i can test/confirm.

Could it be a faulty starter solonoid or motor - if so how to i test ?
 
Last edited:
n18rks said:
Hi, new battery has worked faultless for a few weeks, charged battery sunday and its holding its charge.May still have a charging problem but need to get engine started before i can test/confirm.

Coulkd it be a faulty starte solonoid or motor - if so how to i test ?
Click to expand...

unlikely as you have had other issues- where are you located?
 
Sounds like a bad battery to me... Or a weak alternator. Does it start ok after you've had battery on charge overnight? If so, it suggests the alternator might be your issue. If it still won't start properly after having the battery on charge overnight, then I suspect the battery is duff. NEVER assume a new component is serviceable, just because it's new!

All the 'fault' warnings sound like they are due to low voltage. The various computers that hold your vehicle hostage don't like low voltage.
 
ended up jumping it from another vehicle and got home.Approx 25minute drive - enough time to put some juice into battery.

Did you jump sttart car with leads from battery post to battery post or was the earth the earth directly to engine. Iff second method was used maybee there is a bad earth from the battery negative to the engine.
 
jumped from battery post to battery post on + and - terminals - started immediatley.

understand what you saying about poss alternator prob however if i have charged battery why does the engine not crank and i only get cvhattering relays ? also - what is voltage of fully charge battery so that i can check ?
 
n18rks said:
jumped from battery post to battery post on + and - terminals - started immediatley.

understand what you saying about poss alternator prob however if i have charged battery why does the engine not crank and i only get cvhattering relays ? also - what is voltage of fully charge battery so that i can check ?
Click to expand...

charge battery and get it load tested, have had ****ed bosch and numax and banner are total crap
 
A fully charged lead-acid battery should give 12.6 volts.

You need to check your alternator output under load too... It may be putting out just enough to keep the battery light off, but not enough to put significant juice in the battery. I have had an alternator go like that before. When it's under a fair load you should see it output about 13.8 volts.
 
A fully charged lead acid battery should show 12.8 volts not 12.6 volts. You have all the symptoms of a failed battery, just because it's new does not mean it's good. where did you get it, what AH and CCA is it?
 
Hi these are the battery details:-

Bosch BATTERY TYPE 069/072 70Ah

Bosch S4 car batteries are a high quality, premium replacement for you original car battery. The Bosch S4 range has up to 15% more 'Cold Cracking' power than the original equivilent, and up to 20% longer service life thanks to Bosch's inovitive 'Power Frame' technology. All Bosch S4 batteries are maintance free meaning you do not need to top up, or change the water. Bosch S4 car batteries are ideal for moden vehicles which require a higher quality battery
  • Amp Hours (Ah): 70Ah
  • Cold Cracking Amp (CCA): 570cca

Bought direct from Euro car parts
 
n18rks said:
Hi these are the battery details:-

Bosch BATTERY TYPE 069/072 70Ah


Bosch S4 car batteries are a high quality, premium replacement for you original car battery. The Bosch S4 range has up to 15% more 'Cold Cracking' power than the original equivilent, and up to 20% longer service life thanks to Bosch's inovitive 'Power Frame' technology. All Bosch S4 batteries are maintance free meaning you do not need to top up, or change the water. Bosch S4 car batteries are ideal for moden vehicles which require a higher quality battery
  • Amp Hours (Ah): 70Ah
  • Cold Cracking Amp (CCA): 570cca
Bought direct from Euro car parts
Click to expand...

That's a fairly puny battery for a P38, got a 135AH 1000CCA in mine. If the battery is good then the next most likely problem is the alternator. You should see 14.2 to 14.8 volts at about 2000 rpm after a couple of minutes, but even though it's a quality battery, it may still be faulty, it needs load testing.
 
Just depends how long they have had it in stock. It sounds like a gel battery they can go over the cliff in seconds. OK one minute ten minutes later duff. Take battery to a battery shop and have it shunt tested there maybe a duff cell.
 
sounds like your battery is knackered if the car started with jump leads, take it back and get another,jump start the car to test the alternator,mine gives 14.4 volts at tickover same car and year,should be a 150 amp alternator
 
took off battery last night, trickle charged and tested - found to be 13.33v,put battery in car and "voila" - apart from windows etc set all ok - starts perfectly. At tickover 14.40v at the battery, asked the mrs to get in and keep at 2000rpm - what a pallarva - should have asked a bloke it would have been easier, anyways at 2k rpm still 14.40v at battery, dropped revs and no change but seem to think sufficient to charge and not a problem or is it- any comments ?

So........no more error codes, no chattering relays, fires all ok purrrrrfect - all working ok. Can only assume that battery voltage as numerous posts have suggested was low. Will see how things go over next few days weeks and let you all know.Still interested to hear any comments about the above.
 
just thought i'd update you - everything ok, no problems -starts stop and more importantly starts again - has not missed a beat.

Thinking back, when it let left me stranded i remember touching the earth terminal on the battery and noted that it was very hot - i am thinking that the connection was poor or not making 100% and effectively the connector was acting as a heater thus draining the battery ????? not sure if this is feasible or logical - Anwya, i will see how it goes over the next few days and do some voltage checks - standing, at tickover and at 2k rpm.
 
Hi n18rks, if you need a hand or a new battery (1000 CCA as per Datatek's reccommendation) give me a shout, just somewhere around the corner from you.

I will be back home tomorrow evening, pm me if I can help...

zzr
 
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