Classic Wiring diagram needed '86/'87?

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CCCars

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57
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Wales
Hi, I'm cracking on with a long term project Series 2A/RR hybrid, donor RR was a D reg Vogue EFI problem I'm up against is the wiring diagram in the Haynes book I have doesn't fully match the loom I have and a NA '87 diagram I found on the interweb is partially correct but again not the same, mine has the single indicator light in the dash not the left and right and while I do have the MFU in the binacle I don't have the warning light unit with the light check system just basic warning lights, I've sorted the lights but still have a bunch of wires from the left leg of the harness to find homes for.
Graham
 

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tomcat59alan said:
Or these.;):D:oops:
Click to expand...
Been using them quite a bit getting rid of the parts of the loom I don't need now its time to join it all back up again! Had a run out of the engine today went a lot better after I found I'd timed it 180 degrees out!! Hell of a bang and blew the air filter off!
Discovered a couple of issues today, first of all the fuel pump is only powered up when cranking, once running the power goes off and the engine dies, I'm guessing somewhere along the line the ECU is not getting a run signal?
Second problem that arose was that the bottom hose connection on the radiator I have points straight at the fan belt so I can't connect up the bottom hose so I need suggestions for a suitable radiator that will fit to the 2A front, keep the V8 cool and connect to the engine top and bottom?
I already have an electric fan with temperature switch ready to mount in front of the radiator as there's not space to mount it between the rad and engine, my radiator needs a recore anyway so I can use it to mock up what I need if needs be.
I have lots of other things to sort like brake calipers to overhaul and plumb in, finish off the lights and make up the exhaust so plenty to keep me from getting bored!
Thanks
Graham
 
If you're running a flapper AFM & 4cu ecu then the fuel pump is energised whilst cranking.
Once the engine starts & the key is released to the normal run position the power to the pump is from the AFM via the flap position which is operated by the volume of air passing through it.
Can be handy sorting out fuel leaks/fuel pump issues as all you need to do is have the ignition on in the usual engine running position but with the engine not running & prop the flap open. Pump runs & fuel circulates from the tank through the fuel rail & back to the tank. Let the flap shut fully & no power to the pump.

If it's a hotwire AFM I've no idea!
 
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Ratae said:
If you're running a flapper AFM & 4cu ecu then the fuel pump is energised whilst cranking.
Once the engine starts & the key is released to the normal run position the power to the pump is from the AFM via the flap position which is operated by the volume of air passing through it.
Can be handy sorting out fuel leaks/fuel pump issues as all you need to do is have the ignition on in the usual engine running position but with the engine not running & prop the flap open. Pump runs & fuel circulates from the tank through the fuel rail & back to the tank. Let the flap shut fully & no power to the pump.

If it's a hotwire AFM I've no idea!
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, it makes sense, do you know which colour wire sends this signal to the pump relay? I still have a few wires to find homes for and maybe it's one of them, hopefully something simple like a bad contact from sitting under a tarp for the last 15 years or so!
Will check it out now and let you know how I get on.
Graham
 
tomcat59alan said:
Ref the fuel pump,it should be wired to the ignition live in position 2 sounds like it's wired to position 3 which powers the starter solenoid.
Click to expand...
Doesn't appear to be that simple, anyway it needs power when cranking AND when running. Thanks anyway.
Graham
 
It's a blue/white wire from fuse 18 which goes to the fuel pump connecting plug (round black Lucas Rists type) which on mine is on the chassis rail in the n/s rear wheel arch.
Fuel pump is item 110 on the diagram.
Feed wire into the fuse is shown as white/purple on the diagram but I've never traced it from there as whilst I have had fuel pump issues a couple of times the live to the fuse has always been OK & it's either been a dead pump or a corroded wire just up from the plug.

ETA And I also hate electrickery stuff - almost as much as I hate computery stuff!
 
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Ratae said:
It's a blue/white wire from fuse 18 which goes to the fuel pump connecting plug (round black Lucas Rists type) which on mine is on the chassis rail in the n/s rear wheel arch.
Fuel pump is item 110 on the diagram.
Feed wire into the fuse is shown as white/purple on the diagram but I've never traced it from there as whilst I have had fuel pump issues a couple of times the live to the fuse has always been OK & it's either been a dead pump or a corroded wire just up from the plug.

ETA And I also hate electrickery stuff - almost as much as I hate computery stuff!
Click to expand...
Cheers yes been through those connections during my rewiring IIRC blue white is from the pump relay so need to trace back the relay coil wire which I think is white slate which depending on which wiring diagram I'm looking at comes from the ECU and the white from the ignition switch (ignition on live) so maybe I'm missing this connection?
BTW computery stuff is much much worse!
Graham
 
CCCars said:
Cheers yes been through those connections during my rewiring IIRC blue white is from the pump relay so need to trace back the relay coil wire which I think is white slate which depending on which wiring diagram I'm looking at comes from the ECU and the white from the ignition switch (ignition on live) so maybe I'm missing this connection?
BTW computery stuff is much much worse!
Graham
Click to expand...
Don't start me on putors!!!:rolleyes::mad::)
 
CCCars said:
Thanks for that, it makes sense, do you know which colour wire sends this signal to the pump relay? I still have a few wires to find homes for and maybe it's one of them, hopefully something simple like a bad contact from sitting under a tarp for the last 15 years or so!
Will check it out now and let you know how I get on.
Graham
Click to expand...
OK tried that and pump doesn't run when I opened the flap, gave the connector at the AFM a good clean but still no go, took the over run relay out to have a look at it and it was full of rust inside and the switching was intermittent but didn't make any difference with the new relay in place, signal wire to pump relay is white green, power comes in on a white and power to the pump fuse from the relay is white purple so it seems that the white green must be live when cranking but switches off in the run position, will have a check tomorrow.
I tried to find where the white/green wire comes from but no luck, the tracer is in a spiral rather than the normal straight line if that gives anyone a clue, I don't think it comes from the ECU as I couldn't see it in that bunch so guess it's from the engine loom but doesn't seem to come from the AFM, anybody?
Graham
 
ecu1.jpg afm.jpg page.jpg afm2.jpg
Don't know if these might help.
You're in wiring territory I've never had to go into on mine so can't offer any further ideas.
Did the donor vehicle run?
 
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Ratae said:
View attachment 235641 View attachment 235642 View attachment 235643 View attachment 235644
Don't know if these might help.
You're in wiring territory I've never had to go into on mine so can't offer any further ideas.
Did the donor vehicle run?
Click to expand...
Hopefully I can get a print of those diagrams as they look like what I need, which book is that?
Yes the old RR ran it was our daily driver before the chassi crumbled to dust! I think a PO had been launching boats into the sea, I remember my local LR expert saying it was the worst chassis rot he'd seen on a 7 year old RR!!
Hadn't been serviced very well either as the cam and followers were well shot when I stripped it, some of the bumps were almost gone!
Thanks
Graham
 
Hi I've done my best printing them off but the wire colours are mostly too blurred to make out as are the numbers for the ECU terminals, I've figured out what most of the relevant ones are so will do some testing between the snow showers! I did some blind testing yesterday on the AFM and got 12v on one of the terminals and a low voltage at another one so looks like the power is getting to it, need to test the switching when the flap is opened, hope the switch is working or it's another AFM needed :-(
Which manual is that so I can try to find a copy somewhere?
Graham
 
Range Rover Workshop Manual 1986 to 1989 part number SRR660ENWM. All petrol and diesel engine.
Crop up on ebay regularly, big paper book, not particularly cheap compared to the later RAVE CD but worth their weight.
Don't bother with the RAVE, doesn't contain much for the older EFi engines.

Cams aren't known for huge longevity & lack of oil changes doesn't help.
Better suited to mineral oils, not the modern synthetics.
Cam & followers must be replaced as a set - don't use new followers on an old cam & vice versa.
 
Ratae said:
Range Rover Workshop Manual 1986 to 1989 part number SRR660ENWM. All petrol and diesel engine.
Crop up on ebay regularly, big paper book, not particularly cheap compared to the later RAVE CD but worth their weight.
Don't bother with the RAVE, doesn't contain much for the older EFi engines.

Cams aren't known for huge longevity & lack of oil changes doesn't help.
Better suited to mineral oils, not the modern synthetics.
Cam & followers must be replaced as a set - don't use new followers on an old cam & vice versa.
Click to expand...
All good now, new cam and followers, new rings, new b/e shells, new valves and a good clean up of the head.
Anyway spent a bit of time this afternoon going through the AFM and thankfully it all tested perfect all readings in spec so at least I can rule that out, after much head scratching did a check of the diode pack and had a eureka moment, 2 diodes open circuit and one short circuit so no power to the fuel pump when running.
Next issue is are they still available? I suppose at a push I could get replacement diodes and change them but it'll be a bit of a faff! Couldn't have got this far without the diagrams many thanks for them, will keep an eye out for one of those books.
Graham
 
Do you mean the 3 by the ECU?
Think 2 are aluminium cased Bosch with the details on the top & the other is red plastic.
Again, I think the metal case ones are readily available (possibly AGU1068) but the red one (if it's DAC1861) might be a bit problematic.

This might be of help if you haven't already got it: http://new.lrcat.com/

Several of the manuals currently on ebay. Prices from just under £40.
 
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