Will this injector removal tool work? TD4

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Louis Howe said:
My 05 Freelander TD4 is experiencing starting problems, suspected injector service required as she is over 110k. (Rear fuel pump already changed!)
I know these injecectors can be a nightmare to remove, so my question is will this tool set work on the TD4 injectors, hopefully without destroying them!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/14-Piece-I...iid=281731397209&_trksid=p2047675.m4097.l9055
Click to expand...

The answer is yes they will remove your injectors, but it is always best to remove the injectors when the engine is hot, that way they should just prise out easy, and save you the cost of £89.99 make sure you use a flat metal bar to protect the cam cover otherwise it can get pierced or crack. have you done a leak back test to check the injectors first?
 

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Thankyou for the advice, I’ll make sure I give the car a run before hand to warm everything up. I have heard horror stories about td4 injector removal, which has made me slightly nervous about the procedure (even though I have removed injectors on other engines in the past)
From the look of your photographs yours came out fairly easily?
I have done a basic leak off test, but with 112k on the clock and a slight problem starting only first thing in the morning I strongly suspect the injectors are beginning to deteriate?
 
Louis Howe said:
Thankyou for the advice, I’ll make sure I give the car a run before hand to warm everything up. I have heard horror stories about td4 injector removal, which has made me slightly nervous about the procedure (even though I have removed injectors on other engines in the past)
From the look of your photographs yours came out fairly easily?
I have done a basic leak off test, but with 112k on the clock and a slight problem starting only first thing in the morning I strongly suspect the injectors are beginning to deteriate?
Click to expand...
If prying doesn’t work, just loosen the injector clamp nuts a little and crank the engine over (injectors unplugged!). The compression will shift them.
 
Not looked at the glow plugs as I was under the impression they don’t kick in until below 5 degrees on the td4?

Guineafowl21: heard about this method, guess as long as I don’t release the clamp nuts too far I won’t end up with an injector embedded in my workshop roof, or bonnet lol!
 
Louis Howe said:
Not looked at the glow plugs as I was under the impression they don’t kick in until below 5 degrees on the td4?
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The glow plugs are used for cold starting under 15°C. The glow plug light will show at this time too.
Once running the glow plugs continue to be used for some time, so as to improve running quality and lower emissions.

The glow plugs are also used when the engine is over 15° C. There're not required for starting, but the ECU still drives them for some time to aid cold running quality and emissions.
Louis Howe said:
Guineafowl21: heard about this method, guess as long as I don’t release the clamp nuts too far I won’t end up with an injector embedded in my workshop roof, or bonnet lol!
Click to expand...

You can crank it safely with the plug clamps loosened slightly. They won't fly out if the clamp is still holding them in. ;)
 
Last edited:
Hi Nodge68 - Sorry I didnt see your post.

My sympotoms are poor starting in the morning, and when the car has stood for a while. When she does start she is rough for 5-10 seconds, clears, then drives very well.
Do you think glow plugs could cause this? I have no glow light on the dash.
I did a basic injector leak off test, and had only a very small amount coming from the leak off when turning the engine over.
 
I wouldn't think its glow plugs this time of the year - but possible.

More likely a O ring seal in the pressure regulator on the HP fuel pump.

Possibly an injector leaking into the cylinder.

The O Ring is cheap and reasonably easy to replace - I'd have thought that's the first thing to eliminate.

There have been horror stories replacing glow plugs where they snap as you try to remove them which can lead to the head needing to be removed - I think that's mainly on L Series though. Its also very difficult to change 1 of the plugs on a L Series as its behind the fuel pump, dunno if that applies to the TD4.

There is a very good thread on here for servicing the TD4 injectors yourself - have a search to find it, sure it was this year.

May also be worth checking the wiring harness that connects to the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail, they are known to corrode and return no/incorrect signals back to the ECU. There's a replacement/upgraded harness available.
 
I think I’ll start with the o ring, have been reading a few other posts and it’s solved the same symptoms as I have, Thankyou for that bit of knowledge!
Next question is, can I find a step by step guide anywhere to do the job and is this what I want: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...-Regulator-MAV000040-Repair-Kit-/161597141389


GrumpyGel said:
I wouldn't think its glow plugs this time of the year - but possible.

More likely a O ring seal in the pressure regulator on the HP fuel pump.

Possibly an injector leaking into the cylinder.

The O Ring is cheap and reasonably easy to replace - I'd have thought that's the first thing to eliminate.

There have been horror stories replacing glow plugs where they snap as you try to remove them which can lead to the head needing to be removed - I think that's mainly on L Series though. Its also very difficult to change 1 of the plugs on a L Series as its behind the fuel pump, dunno if that applies to the TD4.

There is a very good thread on here for servicing the TD4 injectors yourself - have a search to find it, sure it was this year.

May also be worth checking the wiring harness that connects to the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail, they are known to corrode and return no/incorrect signals back to the ECU. There's a replacement/upgraded harness available.
Click to expand...
 
Louis Howe said:
I think I’ll start with the o ring, have been reading a few other posts and it’s solved the same symptoms as I have, Thankyou for that bit of knowledge!
Next question is, can I find a step by step guide anywhere to do the job and is this what I want: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...-Regulator-MAV000040-Repair-Kit-/161597141389
Click to expand...

That's the kit, but you can get it much cheaper than that.
Look for Bosch CP1 regulator kit.
See here.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/CP1-Fuel-P...epid=0&hash=item3f81a990dc:g:eQIAAOSwEPtZZP3S
 
Smashing, Thankyou. I have ordered the kit now. Do you know of any instructions to guide me? From what I see the starter and inlet manifold has to come off too?
 
Louis Howe said:
Smashing, Thankyou. I have ordered the kit now. Do you know of any instructions to guide me? From what I see the starter and inlet manifold has to come off too?
Click to expand...


Starter doesn't need to be removed. I just removed the plastic intake pipe from the front of the engine.
 
The plastic inlet manifold does need removing, but that's an ideal opportunity to clean the goop out it anyway.
The starter doesn't normally need removing, unless the regulator's Torx screws are damaged or seized.
Make sure you don't introduce dirt to the pump while the regulator is being worked on.
 
My seal kit has arrived, I have a large seal which looks like it fits around the mounting bolts and smaller o rings. Do I use all these seals, and will it be obvious where they go once I remove the pressure regulator?
Presumably I don’t need to remove the entire fuel pump to change the regulator seals? If I do, I’m wondering now, should I change the fuel pump seals at the same time?
 
Louis Howe said:
I have a large seal which looks like it fits around the mounting bolts and smaller o rings.
Click to expand...
It's obvious where they go, when the regulator is off.
Louis Howe said:
Do I use all these seals, and will it be obvious where they go once I remove the pressure regulator?
Click to expand...
Yes use all the seals.

Louis Howe said:
Presumably I don’t need to remove the entire fuel pump to change the regulator seals? If I do, I’m wondering now, should I change the fuel pump seals at the same time?
Click to expand...
If the pump isn't leaking, then leave well alone.
The pump is more work to get off and needs a special tool to release and hold the timing chain sprocket.
 
Ill get my hands dirty this week and fit the new seals, leaving the pump well alone.
Do I need any other special tools to remove the regulator from the pump, other than torx bits?
 
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