Why do the simple jobs go wrong.......

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D

Dom J

Guest

Following my Leaky Rocker cover post, i got 2 nice shiney new rubber gaskets
yesterday.

Had a spare couple of hours this afternoon and decided to do at least one
side. Choose the drivers side as this looked easier that passenger side.
Got rocker cover off...blimey thats a bit black in there.....cleaned off
cover, cleaned of mating surface on engine, put rocker and new gasket back
on, put the bolts in and then it happened. As the new gaskets are alot
thicker than the old one the rear (nearest the injection gubbins) bolts are
now too short......AARRGHHHHH.

Tried the front ones just to see if they were long enough and they are.
Bolts are 37mm long on the front and 27mm long at back. Went to the shed to
find new bolt only to find that it's a bloody course thread (1.25mm pitch)
M6 bolt. So off round to a mates place to raid his shed full of bolts, he
is a big fan of british bikes and has a huge stock of odd sized nuts and
bolts......except the ones i want.

Anone else come across this before?. Looks like it's off the nut and bolt
shop on Monday.

Dom J



 
Dom J <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> Following my Leaky Rocker cover post, i got 2 nice shiney new rubber
> gaskets yesterday.


There are to my knowledge at least 2 different gaskets for a V8 (I'm making
an assumption here as to what your working on)

I have a new pair in the garage for our Disco which are rubber with inserts
in them where the screws go through...

Then you get the old cork ones ala Earlier V8's certainly up to around 1983
if not later.

I think you need either one or the other and there is some suggestion they
aren't interchangeable when I picked up mine.

You say the new rubber ones thicker... was the old one rubber too?

Lee D

--
www.lrproject.com





 


"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Dom J <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
> about:
>> Following my Leaky Rocker cover post, i got 2 nice shiney new rubber
>> gaskets yesterday.

>
> There are to my knowledge at least 2 different gaskets for a V8 (I'm
> making an assumption here as to what your working on)
>
> I have a new pair in the garage for our Disco which are rubber with
> inserts in them where the screws go through...
>
> Then you get the old cork ones ala Earlier V8's certainly up to around
> 1983 if not later.
>
> I think you need either one or the other and there is some suggestion they
> aren't interchangeable when I picked up mine.
>
> You say the new rubber ones thicker... was the old one rubber too?
>
> Lee D
>
> --
> www.lrproject.com


Opps forgot to mention what engine it is. 3.9Efi on a M plate.

I've got the rubber ones with the inserts in like Lee mentioned. The old
ones were the old cork type which were absolutly buggered. Bloke in shop
assured me they would fit my vehicle ok.

Dom J



 


"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Dom J <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
> about:
>> Following my Leaky Rocker cover post, i got 2 nice shiney new rubber
>> gaskets yesterday.

>
>> I think you need either one or the other and there is some suggestion
>> they

> aren't interchangeable when I picked up mine.



This has got me thinking. Can i fit the rubber gaskets or do i have to fit
the cork ones?. The rubber ones appear to fit on the cover properly.

Dom J



 
> I've got the rubber ones with the inserts in like Lee mentioned. The old
> ones were the old cork type which were absolutly buggered. Bloke in shop
> assured me they would fit my vehicle ok.


Sounds like the bloke in the shop is a bit of a tosser. If he told you that
they would fit and they don't, you are clearly entitled to your money back -
sale of goods act, unfit for purpose sold. Don't suppose you'll need to get
that heavy though, I hope he'll change 'em for you

TonyB


 
> >
> >> I think you need either one or the other and there is some suggestion
> >> they

> > aren't interchangeable when I picked up mine.

>
>
> This has got me thinking. Can i fit the rubber gaskets or do i have to

fit
> the cork ones?. The rubber ones appear to fit on the cover properly.
>
> Dom J
>
>
>


I fitted rubber ones in place of cork ones on my 86 3.5 V8 a while ago -
straight swap, don't remember changing the screws. I'd never go back to the
cork ones again even though the rubber ones are dearer.

As for compatibility, I ordered them from the LR dealer using the number for
the cork ones and they said they had been superseded by the rubber ones.

Andy Fox
1986 110 V8
1990 205 1.9 GTI
1975 Hillman Imp

 
Dom J wrote:

> Tried the front ones just to see if they were long enough and they are.
> Bolts are 37mm long on the front and 27mm long at back. Went to the shed to
> find new bolt only to find that it's a bloody course thread (1.25mm pitch)
> M6 bolt.


Are you sure it's not 1/4" UNC?

--
EMB
 
> > only to find that it's a bloody course thread (1.25mm pitch)
> > M6 bolt.

>
> Are you sure it's not 1/4" UNC?
>

As you say, definitely 1/4" UNC and as Andy says the rubber ones are a
direct replacement.

Martin


 
Dom J wrote:

> Anone else come across this before?. Looks like it's off the nut and bolt
> shop on Monday.


Double check that you have located everything correctly as it very easy
to have the rubber bunch in places it's not meant to and screw things
up so the short bolts are had to locate. I must say your bolt lengths
SOUND right but it'd too dark to go out and check. As others say they
are listed as direct replacements and I've never had to use different
bolts. Try again!

Regards

William MacLeod

 
On or around Sat, 21 Jan 2006 16:54:31 -0000, "Dom J"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Tried the front ones just to see if they were long enough and they are.
>Bolts are 37mm long on the front and 27mm long at back. Went to the shed to
>find new bolt only to find that it's a bloody course thread (1.25mm pitch)
>M6 bolt. So off round to a mates place to raid his shed full of bolts, he
>is a big fan of british bikes and has a huge stock of odd sized nuts and
>bolts......except the ones i want.


hang on, ISTR that the bolts are longer one side of the cover than the other
- the ones on the valley side are different to the ones on the exhaust side.

worth checking up on before going hunting more bolts.


And FYI most of the bolts on the V8 (except, perhaps, the Thor variants?)
are UNF or UNC - the rocker cover ones are probably 1/4" UNC which IIRC is a
20 TPI thread.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Satisfying: Satisfy your inner child by eating ten tubes of Smarties
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 

Cue one very embarresed AFL user...........

I was reading through all the replys to my origional post and came across
William Macleod's reply. Off i went to the Disco thinking 'it can't be as
simple as that....can it?'. hey presto within 10 mins rocker cover on using
the same bolts!. As Homer might say Doh!!!. To all who replied, especially
William, thank you!. Oh and yes the bolts are 1/4 UNC as well.

Dom J



 
Dom J <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> Cue one very embarresed AFL user...........
>
> I was reading through all the replys to my origional post and came
> across William Macleod's reply. Off i went to the Disco thinking 'it
> can't be as simple as that....can it?'. hey presto within 10 mins
> rocker cover on using the same bolts!. As Homer might say Doh!!!. To all
> who replied, especially William, thank you!. Oh and yes the
> bolts are 1/4 UNC as well.
> Dom J


Thanks for the feedback Dom, It's put my mind at rest as I have the rubber
but not certain whats on at present, hence querying with the geezers at the
local suppliers.

They can be a bugger to fit. I sealed the 101 ones on the day before fitting
to rule out some problems.

Discos gotta be done, it's making a hell of a mess of the drive. Not looking
forward to it though with all the clutter including LPG gizmology in the
way.

Lee D


 


"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Discos gotta be done, it's making a hell of a mess of the drive. Not
> looking forward to it though with all the clutter including LPG gizmology
> in the way.
>
> Lee D


I found it's just possible to get the drivers side rocker cover off
without too much trouble. Just need to lift, sldie forward and down a bit
and then push the dipstick for the autobox back into the bulkhead and it
just about comes out. Not sure about the other side though. Can it be done
without removing the Plenum chamber etc etc?. One down, one to go.

Dom J



 

"TonyB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I've got the rubber ones with the inserts in like Lee mentioned. The old
>> ones were the old cork type which were absolutly buggered. Bloke in shop
>> assured me they would fit my vehicle ok.

>
> Sounds like the bloke in the shop is a bit of a tosser. If he told you
> that
> they would fit and they don't, you are clearly entitled to your money
> back -
> sale of goods act, unfit for purpose sold. Don't suppose you'll need to
> get
> that heavy though, I hope he'll change 'em for you
>
> TonyB


FWIW, I regularly replace cork gaskets with the later rubber ones if the
customer so requests, and I've never had any issues with bolts being
insufficient length. The bolts are 1/4 UNC thread, BTW, even the later ones
with a bi-hex 8mm head!
Badger.


 

"Dom J" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> Discos gotta be done, it's making a hell of a mess of the drive. Not
>> looking forward to it though with all the clutter including LPG gizmology
>> in the way.
>>
>> Lee D

>
> I found it's just possible to get the drivers side rocker cover off
> without too much trouble. Just need to lift, sldie forward and down a bit
> and then push the dipstick for the autobox back into the bulkhead and it
> just about comes out. Not sure about the other side though. Can it be
> done without removing the Plenum chamber etc etc?. One down, one to go.
>
> Dom J


Plenum has to be lifted, doesn't need to be completely removed but it's
easier if you do. Remove the 6 allen-headed screws, throttle and kickdown
cables (if auto), unplug the idle speed control valve stepper motor and pull
off it's feed hose and disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure
regulator. leave the throttle body water pipes connected and flip the plenum
over towards the front of the passenger side inner wing. Clean off all
traces of sealant and reseal using ONLY blue hylomar sealant as petrol
vapours will eat into silicon sealant.
Badger.


 
In article <[email protected]>, Badger
<[email protected]> writes

>The bolts are 1/4 UNC thread, BTW, even the later ones with a bi-hex
>8mm head!


The mind fair boggles when you remember the "U" stands for "unified".

I have visions of the fledgling US engineering industry with 20
different not-quite-matching variants of the same threads. Must Google
for the real history of these some time. Incidentally, my dad and
various other engineers have always said that the old non-metric thread
forms were better for different applications than the metric
'compromises' (his word). I'm not well versed enough to know, but I can
see some sense in it - Whitworth, for example being designed to undo
even when badly abused or gunged up, or so I was told.


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 
In message <[email protected]>
SpamTrapSeeSig <[email protected]> wrote:

> In article <[email protected]>, Badger
> <[email protected]> writes
>
> >The bolts are 1/4 UNC thread, BTW, even the later ones with a bi-hex
> >8mm head!

>
> The mind fair boggles when you remember the "U" stands for "unified".
>
> I have visions of the fledgling US engineering industry with 20
> different not-quite-matching variants of the same threads. Must Google
> for the real history of these some time. Incidentally, my dad and
> various other engineers have always said that the old non-metric thread
> forms were better for different applications than the metric
> 'compromises' (his word). I'm not well versed enough to know, but I can
> see some sense in it - Whitworth, for example being designed to undo
> even when badly abused or gunged up, or so I was told.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Simonm.
>


Whitworth was the first bloke to realise that standard threads would
mean you could use any right sized nut and bolt from any manufaturer
to do the job - up till then each made their own non-interchangable
ones (see Fred Dibnah on the subject) - so easy to undo or not
was not a primary objective.

The difference between UNF/UNC and other imperial/metric standards
is "Not Inveneted 'Ere" by The Usual Suspects.

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
On or around Fri, 27 Jan 2006 14:25:56 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Badger
><[email protected]> writes
>
>>The bolts are 1/4 UNC thread, BTW, even the later ones with a bi-hex
>>8mm head!

>
>The mind fair boggles when you remember the "U" stands for "unified".
>
>I have visions of the fledgling US engineering industry with 20
>different not-quite-matching variants of the same threads. Must Google
>for the real history of these some time. Incidentally, my dad and
>various other engineers have always said that the old non-metric thread
>forms were better for different applications than the metric
>'compromises' (his word). I'm not well versed enough to know, but I can
>see some sense in it - Whitworth, for example being designed to undo
>even when badly abused or gunged up, or so I was told.


The whitworth thread was "designed" by Whitworth who took and average of a
selection of threads he had to hand at the time. Later the BS lot got a
hold of it and at some point people decided that Whitworth was a rather
coarse thread, and so you get BSF as well. When whitworth derived his
standard, bolts were typically mostly rather coarse and crude, I suspect -
witness the fact that most modern whitworth bolts have nuts and heads the
next size down - the 1/4" whitworth spanner (about 13mm) fits bolts with a
5/16" diameter, and you hardly ever see 1/4" bolts with that size head.

Meanwhile, other people came up with other standards, such as the SAE
(Society of Automotive Engineers), which had different thread forms and
different head sizes - measuring the head in inches across flats (which
makes more sense, really). At some point, someone decided that it would be
nice if all the inch-size threads fitted a common standard, and you got UNC
and UNF (Unified Coarse and Fine), although plenty of threads continued to
be used such as BS Cycle which used, IIRC, a whitworth thread form but with
a standard pitch of 26 TPI irrespective of size) and BA (British Association
- of what I forget) which are a law unto themselves but were for a long time
used on electrical stuff - BA threads have a very narrow thread form, IIRC
37.5°.

The people who were doing metric threads had less of a checkered history I
think, probably mainly 'cos they started later and had the prior example of
the muddle of imperial standards to steer clear of...

somewhere I have a damned great document which lists almost every thread
there is sorted by size.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"My centre is giving way, my right is in retreat; situation excellent.
I shall attack. - Marshal Foch (1851 - 1929)
 
Austin Shackles wrote:
> BA (British Association
> - of what I forget) which are a law unto themselves but were for a long time
> used on electrical stuff - BA threads have a very narrow thread form, IIRC
> 37.5°.

..


BA threads ARE metric. They were one of THE first metric screws, with
highly convenient logarithmic changes in diameter with "number" from
14BA (1mm OD) to 0BA (6mm OD) and very good properties for fine work,
like electrical and instrument applications.

http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/bathrd.htm

Is an interesting read...

Its a great shame that people who should know better pushed the modern
metric SI thread form and series, because for those of us who work in
fine mechanisms, getting hold of BA screws is getting very tricky.

Steve
 
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