Who knows about brakes?

I had to unseize the pistons in the brake caliper on me Disco 300TDi. They took some doing, prizing with a crobar then pumping back out and getting a couple of mil further each time. The final bit was really tuff then when I pumped them back out what looked like a seal (not the fury kind) came out with the piston. The piston then moved nice and freely, I pushed the seal back in and it seemed to stay there as I pumped the piston back out.

Should this be alright or am I going to have to save up for a new caliper?

I just looked on eBay and saw there are caliper repair kits and stainless pistons available - anyone had experience of these?

Don't take chances with brakes.
At least re-build your existing calipers with new seals and pistons.

Personally, I wouldn't drive it till it is done.

Gotta agree with Trewy ... brakes are too important to skimp on . cheap pads OK, but seals and pistons ... recipe for disaster I reckon.

How tricky are they to overhaul?

DomEllis said:

How tricky are they to overhaul?

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Bit fiddly - easier on the bench (off the car).

Put the fluid seal in first, then the piston, leaving it about 8mm proud, to guide the wiper seal / retaining ring. Fit the wiper seal into the retaining ring first (bit fiddly), then slide them down over the piston and ease them into place as best you can with your fingers. They then need tapping gently and evenly into place the last few mm. I used an old wooden ruler and a tiny hammer to do that, working my way around and around the seal a tiny bit at a time.
Lubricate everything with clean DOT4 brake fluid (NOT DOT5) to make it easier.

If you clean the lip that the retaining ring fits into then it makes things a lot easier. I have a piece of tube that fits over the piston and use that in a press to slowly push the retaining ring home.....you just can't miss I would also recommend fitting stainless steel pistons at the same time.

BTW....(altho there might be wailing and nashing of teeth at this suggestion) you can split the caliper into two halfs. This makes it much much easier. Don't lose the rubber o-rings and makes sure that you undo and redo the bolts evenly. Also make sure they are done up real tight. In other words, treat like a cylinder head.

good stainless never rots what grade is it? is the cost worth it apposed to steel coated one's mine are 8 years old and still sealed and free to move a third of the price you decide

If I do the calliper what was seizing should I do the otherside to even it out? When I'm looking at the cost of 8 pistons and the seal kit it's getting a tad expensive. Could I get away with just a new seal kit?

Any hints on the best place to get em from?

RED RUBBER GREASE!!!!!

Buy a one pound can of the stuff, and use it on ALL hydraulic brakes and clutch repairs.

When assembling brake calipers, this red grease sticks like crazy on the outside exposed parts of the pistons and helps ward off corrosion.

I would NEVER re-build any hydraulic bits without liberal use of this stuff.

Remember, brake fluid absorbs water, and if a steel / iron component is wetted with brake fluid and then exposed to air for a while, IT WILL RUST. Red rubber grease stops this.

CharlesY

DomEllis said:

If I do the calliper what was seizing should I do the otherside to even it out? When I'm looking at the cost of 8 pistons and the seal kit it's getting a tad expensive. Could I get away with just a new seal kit?

Any hints on the best place to get em from?

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If yer pistons are not corroded and are like new then yer can get away with new seals.

landowner said:

If yer pistons are not corroded and are like new then yer can get away with new seals.

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If by "not corroded" you mean not covered in scabby rust and flaky bits, I'm sh1t out of luck. Feck n arse, there goes this weeks wages.

So where's the best place to get some pistons cheap then?

And am okay to do just the effected calliper? Or should I do the both?

DomEllis said:

If by "not corroded" you mean not covered in scabby rust and flaky bits, I'm sh1t out of luck. Feck n arse, there goes this weeks wages.

So where's the best place to get some pistons cheap then?

And am okay to do just the effected calliper? Or should I do the both?

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I'd do both but if the other side is Ok and working propper then try one and see if it pulls to one side.
I got mine for 55 quid with new pads and retaining pins so shop around.

landowner said:

I'd do both but if the other side is Ok and working propper then try one and see if it pulls to one side.
I got mine for 55 quid with new pads and retaining pins so shop around.

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55 squidlies? Including pads, and pistons n'all? WHERE FROM? Please, do spill.

Or I'll have to fix it DV style!

Forgot to add VAT to that.
pistons were 30 quid +vat
pads were 12.50 +vat
and the rest was pins and seals.
Got em from my local Landy stockist, but if you try interweb you can get em as cheap.

Just found Foundry 4x4 on eBay and they do a complete kit for 15 squids! Anyone know if they're any good?

I got my stainless pistons from Zeus engineering. Been used in winch challenge environment and never had a seized piston since. They have been in there for just over 7 years now. IMHO you won't regret it.

andyb66 said:

I got my stainless pistons from Zeus engineering. IMHO you won't regret it.

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Just don't be tempted to buy Zeus timing gears to replace cam-belts.

That you WOULD regret.

CharlesY