White smoke dead battery td4 auto 03

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guineafowl21 said:
Okay - as far as I can see, your alternator is goosed.

@blue beasty is this one for LZIR?

Otherwise, can’t you simultaneously join and get rescue from AA/RAC/Green Flag? They used to offer this type of service.
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What is this likely to cost for new bat and alternator, joining, and will they make a meal out it. I can get easily flustered when trying to explain things. No garage open on Sunday. Can they fix all on one visit at a supermarket
 
Well, you’re looking at a few hundred all in but why not give RAC etc a ring? I doubt they’d leave a lady stranded in a car park. Most important thing is to get the thing looked at and diagnosed. It might be simpler than you think.

You’re correct about towing an auto - I thought maybe just to get you out of the car park.

I’m in Aberdeenshire, so can’t help you directly. While you wait, here’s a story - I had to fix just this problem for the wife. She was working 1 1/2 hours away in Inverness, and as she got towards work, the headlights dimmed, car faultered and the HDC/ABS/TC and battery lights came on. Sensibly, she switched all the electrical loads off and crawled into the car park, and gave me a call. Thankfully, I had a spare alternator, and got the tools together and drove up. Amid some odd looks from the staff, I tiddled away at the car and swapped out the alternator. A quick jump start later and all was well - no new battery needed even.

And that wasn’t even the first time she’s abandoned a dead car in a car park for me to fix. Before that, a prop bearing disintegrated and she dumped the car in an M&S on the way to work - got the bus the rest of the way. She now tells both of these stories with a chuckle, in contrast to the tone of her phone calls to me at the time.

Moral of the story - what seems like disaster now will become an amusing anecdote in years to come.
 
guineafowl21 said:
Well, you’re looking at a few hundred all in but why not give RAC etc a ring? I doubt they’d leave a lady stranded in a car park. Most important thing is to get the thing looked at and diagnosed. It might be simpler than you think.

You’re correct about towing an auto - I thought maybe just to get you out of the car park.

I’m in Aberdeenshire, so can’t help you directly. While you wait, here’s a story - I had to fix just this problem for the wife. She was working 1 1/2 hours away in Inverness, and as she got towards work, the headlights dimmed, car faultered and the HDC/ABS/TC and battery lights came on. Sensibly, she switched all the electrical loads off and crawled into the car park, and gave me a call. Thankfully, I had a spare alternator, and got the tools together and drove up. Amid some odd looks from the staff, I tiddled away at the car and swapped out the alternator. A quick jump start later and all was well - no new battery needed even.

And that wasn’t even the first time she’s abandoned a dead car in a car park for me to fix. Before that, a prop bearing disintegrated and she dumped the car in an M&S on the way to work - got the bus the rest of the way. She now tells both of these stories with a chuckle, in contrast to the tone of her phone calls to me at the time.

Moral of the story - what seems like disaster now will become an amusing anecdote in years to come.
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The battery is so low now that the car does not do anything just click and to add insult to injury the cd changer drawers opened one by one, like I really need it to do that when the power is sooooo low that I am worried that the tailgate window won't go back up. Haven't the black jump leads to the terminal stuffed the electrics. The handbook says not to put them on the terminal and they were put on five times not to the earth.
 
Blackness said:
The battery is so low now that the car does not do anything just click and to add insult to injury the cd changer drawers opened one by one, like I really need it to do that when the power is sooooo low that I am worried that the tailgate window won't go back up. Haven't the black jump leads to the terminal stuffed the electrics. The handbook says not to put them on the terminal and they were put on five times not to the earth.
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Did your wife have shuddering and white smoke too.
 
Just in case

Green Flag:
The cover can’t be purchased if you’ve already broken down. However, we can still help you if you require assistance. Simply call us on 0800 051 0636.

RAC:
Broken Down but Not an RAC Member?
Don't worry - we can help even if you're not an RAC Member yet.

  1. Call 0333 2000 999
  2. Tell us where you are
  3. We'll help if you've broken down or your vehicle won't start
  4. Join RAC for the year - prices will differ from those online and we'll add an emergency callout charge
  5. You can choose your breakdown package but for the first 24 hours you'll be on Roadside assistance only
AA:
Broken down in the UK?
Call 0800 88 77 66. We’ll come and rescue you, even if you’re not a Member.


Although I hate to think what the cost would be for any of them.

Good luck.

Cheers
 
Blackness said:
The battery is so low now that the car does not do anything just click and to add insult to injury the cd changer drawers opened one by one, like I really need it to do that when the power is sooooo low that I am worried that the tailgate window won't go back up. Haven't the black jump leads to the terminal stuffed the electrics. The handbook says not to put them on the terminal and they were put on five times not to the earth.
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No - the black lead should go to the body for safety reasons. As you make the final connection, a spark will jump and it’s best to keep sparks away from the battery. It should be fine.
 
guineafowl21 said:
No - the black lead should go to the body for safety reasons. As you make the final connection, a spark will jump and it’s best to keep sparks away from the battery. It should be fine.
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What a relief. I thought because the cheap jump leads were getting really hot that they fried my electrics attaching to the terminal with the black lead. Two blokes helped me who were getting petrol, but when these wires got hot they left in a hurry and they had to pick up their child relative. I guess they did their best but said they needed heavier leads. The other help came from a guy with a transit and it started off that easily. But died when trying to set off.
 
It sounds like it needs someone to jump start it with their vehicle, then leave it running to charge your battery. Once yer battery has a good charge in it it will last for a while, while yer drive it, if your alternator can't keep the battery charged when the engine is running. How far have you got to travel home and at what speed?

Once your vehicle has power you'll be able to put the back window up.

Warm jump leads is down to the current flowing in them. If the leads can't dissipate the heat then they will be warm. I would eggspect them to be touch warm but not hot. This is normal.

Don't go and buy a battery and alternator. If you intend on getting someone to fix it for you they will test both and tell you which one needs changed or if both are feked.

Do you have a credit card or method of payment over the phone to join the above mentioned recovery peeps?
 
Hippo said:
It sounds like it needs someone to jump start it with their vehicle, then leave it running to charge your battery. Once yer battery has a good charge in it it will last for a while, while yer drive it, if your alternator can't keep the battery charged when the engine is running. How far have you got to travel home and at what speed?

Once your vehicle has power you'll be able to put the back window up.

Warm jump leads is down to the current flowing in them. If the leads can't dissipate the heat then they will be warm. I would eggspect them to be touch warm but not hot. This is normal.

Don't go and buy a battery and alternator. If you intend on getting someone to fix it for you they will test both and tell you which one needs changed or if both are feked.

Do you have a credit card or method of payment over the phone to join the above mentioned recovery peeps?
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Hi I have been looking online to try to determine what the joining fees are when you are in the breakdown scenario. It's not clear. The window is up now, not down, but handbook says it will go down when disconnecting the battery. It's not far to home at 30mph. I live in a flat with communal parking no garage so window needs to stay up. How long would I need to sit in the car in idle to get it to move? Idling for a long time is bad too the handbook says. Yes I need diagnostic before a decision. My default setting is panic I am afraid.
 
Blackness said:
Hi I have been looking online to try to determine what the joining fees are when you are in the breakdown scenario. It's not clear. The window is up now, not down, but handbook says it will go down when disconnecting the battery. It's not far to home at 30mph. I live in a flat with communal parking no garage so window needs to stay up. How long would I need to sit in the car in idle to get it to move? Idling for a long time is bad too the handbook says. Yes I need diagnostic before a decision. My default setting is panic I am afraid.
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The handbook says don't start car with a completely dead battery!
 
Blackness said:
Hi I have been looking online to try to determine what the joining fees are when you are in the breakdown scenario. It's not clear. The window is up now, not down, but handbook says it will go down when disconnecting the battery. It's not far to home at 30mph. I live in a flat with communal parking no garage so window needs to stay up. How long would I need to sit in the car in idle to get it to move? Idling for a long time is bad too the handbook says. Yes I need diagnostic before a decision. My default setting is panic I am afraid.
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+1 to @Hippo and @neilly ’s posts.

The window will go down once the battery, or power, is reconnected. You can just put it back up, holding the switch ‘up’ for a few seconds after it’s closed.

Don’t idle your car, idle the one charging it. Give it 1/2 hour/45 mins and go have a coffee.

Stop reading the handbook - it’s making you think the worst ;)
 
Blackness said:
Yes it is ! Hahaha
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Seriously, though, get a sensible, practical mate with a good pair of jump leads to boost your car enough for the drive home, as Hippo says. Get him (and it probably will be a him, let’s face it :p ) to follow you back.

Get it done before dark, as headlights will shorten your range. Don’t use any unnecessary loads, like blower fan, radio, etc.
 
guineafowl21 said:
+1 to @Hippo and @neilly ’s posts.

The window will go down once the battery, or power, is reconnected. You can just put it back up, holding the switch ‘up’ for a few seconds after it’s closed.

Don’t idle your car, idle the one charging it. Give it 1/2 hour/45 mins and go have a coffee.

Stop reading the handbook - it’s making you think the worst ;)
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So you connect the leads but don't try to turn mine on. Or turn my key part way or don't turn my key. Sorry to be dim?
 
Blackness said:
So you connect the leads but don't try to turn mine on. Or turn my key part way or don't turn my key. Sorry to be dim?
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Start the other persons car
Connect leads to your car which is switched off
leave other persons car on tick over for 30 minutes
don't leave the cars or one will get nicked (and yours if it's changed enough)
Then disconnect leads
then start your car
you drive home with other car behind following you
 
Blackness said:
So you connect the leads but don't try to turn mine on. Or turn my key part way or don't turn my key. Sorry to be dim?
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Hook up as for a jump start. Good car running, bad car off.

1. Good+ to Bad+
2. Good- to Bad frame. Check some life is getting through by trying your lights briefly.
3. Leave for 1/2-3/4 hour.
4. Shut off Good car.
5. Start Bad car, disconnect leads in reverse.
6. Bugger off home quick.
 
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