Which tools will I need?

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He he he I worked on CNC lathes an millers for ages, in the early days the programmers were ****e, come to think of it they were ****e in the later days as well. Any old how you'd have to rewrite the programs on the machines an as you were watching the program on the monitor you suddenly see a rapid traverse code instead of a feed code you'd missed, **** me yer all arms an legs hitting every button there is to slow it down before half an hundred weight of steel come through the machine door to hit you on yer norrie.
 
Glad someone appreciates what I'm on about. Would love to go back to the old days of my job where engineering expertise and common sense were the norm, but hey ho, things move on...
 
Evening,

I'm going to have a stab at replacing my timing belt on my 2.5 N/A myself. Which tools will I need for the job? Anything specialist? I am not intending to remove the heater or the fan.

Cheers
-Pos

Flywheel timing pin, LR part no 18G 1458
Injector pump locking tool, LR part no 18G 1458

presume you need the same tool x 2, you might get away with using bolts.

Riggaz
 
Evening,

I'm going to have a stab at replacing my timing belt on my 2.5 N/A myself. Which tools will I need for the job? Anything specialist? I am not intending to remove the heater or the fan.

Cheers
-Pos

Copy and paste time again, sorry

TIME D.P.S. PUMP AND VALVES​
- Early Engines

The D.P.S. pump and valves are timed using the
exhaust valve peak of number one cylinder. On early
engines the exhaust peak position is determined by the
relationship of a line, marked​
E.P. on the flywheel
perifery and a timing pointer on the flywheel housing.
The pointer is available under Part Number ERC 2250.
1. Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction
until

the E.P. mark on​
the flywheel lines-up exactly with

the pointer. If the crankshaft is inadvertently
turned beyond the E.P. mark do not turn​
it back
but continue
on round in a clockwise direction until
the mark and pointer coincide exactly.
7. Set a dial type torque wrench to 29,O
to 23,5 Nm
(21 to 17 Ibs
ft) and whilst holding it vertically,
insert the drive peg into thc square hole in the
tensioner base plate. Tension the bclt and tighten
the clamp nuts
to the correct torque.
Check that the dot
on the crankshaft pulley and the
cast-on arrow on the rear cover line-up.
Fit the timing belt tensioner assembly and loosely
secure with the two nuts (strap deleted on later
models).
Turn the D.P.S. pump pulley clockwise
until the
dot lines
up exactly with arrows in the rear cover.
Similarly, turn the camshaft pulley clockwise
so

that​
the dot coincides exactly with the cast-on
arrow.
Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft pulley and
whilst keeping the belt under tension, by hand, run
the beii over
the carnsiiafi puiiey. if iiie beit does

not quite mate with the grooves, turn the pulley
clockwise the necessary amount. Feed the belt over
the pump pulley and​
if necessary turn the pulley
clockwise to locate in the grooves. Keeping a firm
grip on the belt pass
it over the tensioner wheel.
8. Rotate the engine TWO complete revolutions.
9. Slacken the tensioncr clamp
nuts.

10. Tension the belt again as described in instruction​
7

and tighten the clamp nuts to the correct torque.​
CAUTION: The double tensioning procedure is
imperative, otherwise the belt​
could fail resulting in
serious engine damage. See CAUTION Page 84 and

“Care​
of beits”.

11.​
Rotate the crankshaft until, the E.P. mark on the
flywheel and the pointer line-up.
12. Check that the
dots on the pump and camshaft
pulleys coincide exactly with their respective
arrows.
If there is any misalignment thc procedure
must be repeated.

2.50​
LITRE DIESEL ENGINE 112

,​
_.. :. -,.., ,..1. ,'. . . - ,._. ....,. . .., . 13. Remove the plug from the side of the D.P.S. pump
and insert gauge tool
18G 1458 and if necessary
rotate the pump body until the gauge can be
fully

inserted and screwed home indicating that the
inner disc is centrally positioned​
with the hole.
14.
Evenly tighten the three nuts securing the pump to
the cover and the single
nut and bolt to the support
bracke
t .

15. Align timing pointer on rear of cover, with the
scribed line on the pump flange and tighten​
the two
screws. If a new pump is being fitted and there is no
scribed line, scribe a line in the centre of the
machined area on the pump flange. Align the
timing pointer and tighten the screws. On later
engines the timing pointer has been deleted and
instruction 15 can be ignored.

.​
16. Tightcn the D.P.S. pump timing pulley​
nut and thc
camshaft pullcy retaining bolt to the correct
torque.

17.​
Remove the timing pointer from the flywhecl
housing, close
the cover and secure with the two

nuts.

later engines

1. Remove the plug from the flywheel housing and​
fit
the
body of special tool LST 107 without the pin.
2. Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction
until
the
E.P. slot in the flywheel is in-line with the hole
in the flywheel housing. If the crankshaft is
inadvertently turned beyond the E.P. slot, do not
turn the crankshaft back but continue on round
in a

clockwise direction​
until the pin of the special tool
can be fully located in the flywheel slot.

1​
3.​
Fit the timing belt tensioner assembly and loosely
securc with the two nuts.

4.​
Turn the D.P.S. pump pulley clockwise until the
dot on the pulley lines-up exactly with the cast-on
arrow inside the
front cover.
5. Similarly,
turn the camshaft pulley clockwise until
thc
dot lines-up with the cast-on arrow in the front
covcr.

6.​
Fit a new timing belt over the crankshaft pulley and
whilst keeping
the belt under tension, by hand, run

the belt over the camshaft pullcy. Should thc belt
not quite mate with​
the grooves, turn the pullcy
clockwise the necessary amount. Fced the belt over

the​
D.P.S. pump pulley and if necessary turn the
pulley clockwise to locate
in the grooves. Keeping

a​
firm grip on the belt, pass i t over the tensioner
jockey pulley.
7. Withdraw the special tool timing
pin from the

Time D.P.S. PUMP AND VALVES​
- Later Engines
with slot in flywheel for determining the E.P.
The D.P.S. pump and valves are timed using the
exhaust valve peak of number one cylinder. This is
determined
on later engines by the relationship of a slot
in the flywheel periphery and a plugged hole in the
flywheel housing through which
a flywheel timing pin,
special tool number LST 107, is inserted.

- -​
flywheel slot.
8. Set​
a dial type torque wrench to 20.0 to 23.5 Nm

(21 to 17 Ibs​
ft) and whilst holding it vertically,
insert the drive peg
into the square hole in the
tensioner base plate. Tension the belt and tighten
iiie ciamp
nuts to the correct torquc.

9.​
Rotate the crankshaft TWO complete revolutions.
10. Slacken the tensioner clamp nuts.

I 1 .​
Tension the belt again as described in instruction 8
and tighten
the clamp nuts to the correct torque.

83​
12​
CAUTION:​
The double tensioning procedure is

imperative otherwise the belt could fail resulting in
serious engine damage.​
Also, if a new belt is not
attainable and it
is necessary to refit the old belt it
should be
only torqued to 19-24 Nm (14-18 Ibs ft).

2.50 LITRE DIESEL ENGINE​
12. Rotate the crankshaft until the pin of the special
timing tool can, once again, bc inserted into the
flywheel E.P. slot.
13. Check that​
the dots on the camshaft and D.P.S.
pump pulleys coincidc exactly with their respective
cast-on arrows on thc rcar covcr. Should there be
any misalignment the foregoing procedure must be
repeatcd.
14. Remove the plug from the side of the
D.P.S. pump

and insert

now that has to win the copy and paste award surely!

Riggaz
 
aye bin there did that but nevva nevva well not yet anyways felt that black black doom worthty feeling one must get when it all goes wrong..grunt say turn it over by hand a few times before starting it.. i turn the fooker over fer about 10 mins by hand then get someone else to check it aswell before shutting me eyes and getting a n other to turn said key... that way you always have someone else to blame if it did happen to go wrong..
but ah thing most folk have heard or know what can happen if you gert it wrong that they put that little bit extra into getting it right therefore it nevva goes wrong...........hardly.....

try doing it with an expensive engine like a maserati one and see how you feel as you turn the key that first time. it will pucker yer spincter something rotten

When i worked at BMW the senior tech rebuilt a rather expensive M3 EVO engine from the ground up,Fired it up let it tick over for a minute to let the lifters fill wi oil then nailed it to the red line for bout a minute much to my horror and calmly said " well it will either blow up or it wont" switched it off and went for a brew!
 
When i worked at BMW the senior tech rebuilt a rather expensive M3 EVO engine from the ground up,Fired it up let it tick over for a minute to let the lifters fill wi oil then nailed it to the red line for bout a minute much to my horror and calmly said " well it will either blow up or it wont" switched it off and went for a brew!

What an idiot! The correct thing to do on a petrol engine is to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine to fill the filters and get the oil pressure up and round the engine, especially on the camshaft! Then put the plugs back in and fire it up but not allowing it to idle, keeping it at about 1800 rpm until it reaches operating temp then switch off and go for a brew. Doing it his way, the camshaft is spinning round with no oil until the filter fills up. My father bought a V6 racing engine from John Wade JW Developments and this is the way John does it.

Riggaz
 
What an idiot! The correct thing to do on a petrol engine is to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine to fill the filters and get the oil pressure up and round the engine, especially on the camshaft! Then put the plugs back in and fire it up but not allowing it to idle, keeping it at about 1800 rpm until it reaches operating temp then switch off and go for a brew. Doing it his way, the camshaft is spinning round with no oil until the filter fills up. My father bought a V6 racing engine from John Wade JW Developments and this is the way John does it.

Riggaz

Even better .....

I NEVER assemble an engine or any running or rubbing parts (camshaft is worst) without a slobber of Rocol Mt-LM Assembly Paste on all the surfaces.

It's a 60% molygrease stuff especially for the job, and it does the business.

CharlesY
 
i normaly assemble with a heavier grade of oil i.e. if the engine has 0w/20 i assemble with the componants covered in 10w/30 then spin the engine with no compression, re-assert compression and fire it up run it for 20mins drain the oil out re-fill with correct oil then run the engine in for 200miles of normal driving using the whole rev-range(not bouncing it off the limiter) drain the oil and re-fill with the good stuff, unless its an agricutural engine like a series lump then it don't matter what ya do to it itll be ok
 
on some injuns you can take the dizzy out and put a modified dizzy drive on a leccy drill and get the oil pump working before you think about starting it
 
on some injuns you can take the dizzy out and put a modified dizzy drive on a leccy drill and get the oil pump working before you think about starting it

just make sure the leccy drill has a reverse on it as most pumps work anti clockwise
 
good point that man ah just work out which way they go and set drill accordingly.. btw that other thing wur a non starter, but thanks fer trying
 
Yes!!! I have no idea when it was last changed and what condition it is in. My car is 21 yers old, and as far as I know it could have never had a new belt put on. If it snaps I'll have to pay for four new push rods fitting which I don't want to pay for! The pushrods are only £3 / £4 but it's the labour thats expensive

Not really, push rods are easier to do than the timing belt to be honest, if you would do a timing belt yourself you would do the push rods.

I think as CharlesY says you should fully understand how things works before you start doing these kind of jobs. I think it would be worth you getting a GOOD book that shows and discusses the full workings of an engine and what does what and what its called.
 
Even better .....

I NEVER assemble an engine or any running or rubbing parts (camshaft is worst) without a slobber of Rocol Mt-LM Assembly Paste on all the surfaces.

It's a 60% molygrease stuff especially for the job, and it does the business.

CharlesY

Unless you D.I.Y your engine it will come complete and the company that built it will have used assembly lube in all cases when an engine is assembled, the oil pressure and filters still need to be primed before fire though to avoid any undesirable wear and idleing is still a no no.

Riggaz
 
Evening,

I'm going to have a stab at replacing my timing belt on my 2.5 N/A myself. Which tools will I need for the job? Anything specialist? I am not intending to remove the heater or the fan.

Cheers
-Pos

It's not an imposible job. Definatley do it, if it snaps you damage things and you no doubt you will be stranded somewhere inconvenient. They should be done every 60000 miles.

Riggaz
 
Unless you D.I.Y your engine it SHOULD come complete and the company that built it SHOULD have used assembly lube in all cases when an engine is assembled, the oil pressure and filters still need to be primed before fire though to avoid any undesirable wear and idleing is still a no no.

Riggaz
thats betta, dint ye think?
 
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