Which tools will I need?

Evening,

I'm going to have a stab at replacing my timing belt on my 2.5 N/A myself. Which tools will I need for the job? Anything specialist? I am not intending to remove the heater or the fan.

Cheers
-Pos

pos said:

Evening,

I'm going to have a stab at replacing my timing belt on my 2.5 N/A myself. Which tools will I need for the job? Anything specialist? I am not intending to remove the heater or the fan.

Cheers
-Pos

Click to expand...

I don't think the heater has much to do with the job, but the FAN will have to go ... nothing surer.

Don't even start this job till

1. you understand the importance of setting the engine to top dead centre, number one firing, and
2. you have acquired a dial-reading torque wrench that will hold the correct torque on the tensioner as you tighten the locknut.

It isn't convenient to do this job single-handed.

CharlesY

Hi Charlsey,

Thanks for your reply. What do you mean by "top dead centre, number one firing"? Is it not just as easy as taking the belt off, putting the new one on, aligning the markings on the belt and the cogs and then tightening it to the specific torque?

Thanks again!
-Pos

No theres an ole in the flywheel starter ring you have to put a peg into to time it up, then align the marks on the various pinions Dunno exactly what the set up is as the N/A is different but similar to the turbo.

see there is more to this timing belt changing caper.

Grunt is exactly correct. Me too ....

No it is certainly NOT "just as easy as taking the belt off, putting the new one on, aligning the markings on the belt and the cogs and then tightening it to the specific torque."

You see, if you do that as you said it, you'll stop the engine, expose the old belt, undo the tensioner, take off the old belt, and then turn the crankshaft, pump wheel and camshaft wheel to align all the marks. Then you'll fit the new belt, and tension it up. Have I got that right?
Unfortunately it won't happen like that. It will get STUKKKKK.

If you do that there's almost no doubt at all that you will get in a mess, and you may cause serious damage in the process.

Grunt and I will both say it is VITAL to set the engine (especially the crankshaft) to

"top dead centre, with number one firing" before doing anything else

so that all the cambelt wheels are in the right position BEFORE you take off the old belt.

If you do not get this right, when you turn the crank and the cam/ pump wheels to align the timing marks, things inside will be WAY out of position, and the pistons WILL hit some of the valves. This is not a maybe - it's a defo will.

In ALL Landy Diesel engines it is worth remembering that the valves go down deeper into the cylinders than the tops of the pistons come up!

So .....if the timing isn't spot-on all the time, one or more valves will collide with one or more pistons, and that is a VERY bad idea.

Until you understand more deeply the critical relationships between all the bits, it is as well to take experienced advice, and not argue about it.

If you are doing the belt from scratch, take out the pushrods first, and don't put them back until the belt is in place and proved to be timed properly. Turning the engine will be easier if you hoick out the glow-plugs. They needed cleaned and copper-greased anyway.

CharlesY

An after you've fitted it an before you connect the battery back up (you disconnected it so some meddling buffoon dint try starting her up with half the bits missing), turn the injun over several times using the crankshaft pulley just to make sure nothing hits owt it shouldn't hit. If it's yer fost one you'll still be crapping yourself when you come to start her up. An don't let us put you off, if you read up about it it's really a simple enough job.

Thanks a lot CharlesY and Grunt. I'll try nd get hold of a locking peg, and I'll look into it a bit further before I go ahead. Thanks again

-Pos

yer just bung a drill in on the turbo but I'm sure it's not quite the same, you may just align some marks up on the flywheel. It tells you in haynesiz.

GRUNT said:

An after you've fitted it an before you connect the battery back up (you disconnected it so some meddling buffoon dint try starting her up with half the bits missing), turn the injun over several times using the crankshaft pulley just to make sure nothing hits owt it shouldn't hit. If it's yer fost one you'll still be crapping yourself when you come to start her up. An don't let us put you off, if you read up about it it's really a simple enough job.

Click to expand...

Well I knew that bit too ... I really did .... honest I did ...
but how much harm is there in being reminded of such a VERY IMPORTANT thing? I am always happy to be reminded. Five seconds of Slob's reminder could save me five days of hard work and a whole lot of cash.

"Excitement" is defined in the Haynes-Landy dictionary as a feeling of indescribable tension as one turns the starter key ON for the first time after fitting a new timing belt. There's no other feeling comes close!

It is always followed by feelings of euphoria, elation, ecstasy, joy, jubilation, rapture, exhilaration, bliss and exultation if it worked, and complete and utter black despair and doom and gloom if it didn't.

We've all been there.

Slob knows ........

CharlesY

do you have a real reason to replace the timing belt?

Yes!!! I have no idea when it was last changed and what condition it is in. My car is 21 yers old, and as far as I know it could have never had a new belt put on. If it snaps I'll have to pay for four new push rods fitting which I don't want to pay for! The pushrods are only £3 / £4 but it's the labour thats expensive

I guess its best to be safe than broke.

FOUR bent pushrods?

There are eight of them in most 4-cylinder engines ...

and I would say if you bend ANY of them fit a full set of new ones ....

CharlesY

There's 8? 8 pushrods will bend then.

if labour are to esspensive get the lib dems to fit them then

aye bin there did that but nevva nevva well not yet anyways felt that black black doom worthty feeling one must get when it all goes wrong..grunt say turn it over by hand a few times before starting it.. i turn the fooker over fer about 10 mins by hand then get someone else to check it aswell before shutting me eyes and getting a n other to turn said key... that way you always have someone else to blame if it did happen to go wrong..
but ah thing most folk have heard or know what can happen if you gert it wrong that they put that little bit extra into getting it right therefore it nevva goes wrong...........hardly.....

try doing it with an expensive engine like a maserati one and see how you feel as you turn the key that first time. it will pucker yer spincter something rotten

Ey up Mr Slob, you still up!!?? Just havin me nightcap and catching up before i call it a day.

Worst moment I had was testing some CAM software at a large demolition tool maker. Modelled the thing up, ran the routine, outputted the NC code, drip fed to this MASSIVE Mazak machine centre. Fed in 1' diameter bar stock, pressed the go button and held onto my hard hat quaking in me rigger boots. Good job the machinist hit the red mushroom when he did...

and in english?

1/2 million pound machine tool about to machine itself to destruction on rapid traverse - not good...