Where to locate a battery isolator switch on a truck cab 90 ?

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Cavey_P38

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Hi all

So have got new seats to fit, however they do not come apart like the old ones so access to the battery box will require seat removal.

Have ordered some anderson plugs so can still jump start or use battery charger.

However feel it would be best to have a battery isolator switch, but where to put ?

Suggestions welcome, don;t want to do front of seat box as probably going to put anderson plug there unless someone has suggestions for that as well.

Have considered behind seats but end up with lots of stuff behind there and don't want it knocked off when in use.
Anyone used the small plate next to seat belts ?

Any other ideas.

Like the GMB wing intake lock box on mud website but don't want to spend the £140
 
You need to have it near the battery otherwise you will need large diameter (read expensive) wiring to connect it. Even then long battery cable runs are a bad idea. Put it on the front of the seatbox next to the Anderson, there should be plenty of room,. You could probably relocate the immobiliser box (if you have one) to another location in the battery bay if it is in the way.
 
Mine is still in the shop (and the money is in the bank) as I don't think I'll bother, but then again I might!:confused:
 
Mine is still in the shop (and the money is in the bank) as I don't think I'll bother, but then again I might!:confused:

Yeah I didn't for ages but it's only because mine can sit unused for 2 weeks or longer and I wanted to isolate the battery. Also wanted to be able to isolate the batter quickly and easily when working on it, or welding etc
 
Its a good mod, I have the same on the series and sometimes not used for months, isolator on and away it goes every time, never any battery issues.
 
Had considered it for a while, cos i work away a bit so at times mine doesn't move for a couple of weeks

No options now really with the new seats to fit, if not would have to remove seat every-time i wanted to work on the motor

They are cheap enough off fleabay
Got the anderson plugs off RS components, were delivered to the company address today, so will collect them over the weekend.

Any tips on wiring / crimping them, have watched a Utube clip where they are soldered to cables. Is that best or best to crimp them ? if so do i need a special tool or can i just beat them/ squash them etc.
 
Had considered it for a while, cos i work away a bit so at times mine doesn't move for a couple of weeks

No options now really with the new seats to fit, if not would have to remove seat every-time i wanted to work on the motor

They are cheap enough off fleabay
Got the anderson plugs off RS components, were delivered to the company address today, so will collect them over the weekend.

Any tips on wiring / crimping them, have watched a Utube clip where they are soldered to cables. Is that best or best to crimp them ? if so do i need a special tool or can i just beat them/ squash them etc.
Crimping gives the best electrical and mechanical properties but only if using the correct tooling and preparation (DONT twist the wire strands). If it is a 175A Anderson then the tooling will probably be v expensive. If you could find someone with the correct tooling take some biscuits and bribe them. Failing that solder them, either way use a sleeve to keep moisture out.
 
What we do at work on Anderson 175 is to put the terminal in a vice ope en end up, heat it up and half fill with solder, then when solder nice and fluid dunk the bared wire in and hold it until solder has set, not seen one fail yet and theres hundreds of the things running around.
Crimp tools are on ebay but are about 50 quid.
Fitting them with a hammer is asking for future trouble.
 
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