Where do I start!!

Hey everyone. I'm new to Range Rovers, this is my first one and I've a few niggles to sort.
Typically most of it seems electrical which I'm not so good with!
1) Passenger side door has lost power. No mirror, no window, no lock. After a bit of reading this could be the outstation?? I'll try get the time to check that tomorrow.
2) An ABS sensor failed on the passenger side and after a replacement was fitted the abs and trac light are still showing. So does this need an ecu reset?
3) The LPG is shocking in its its power loss. Its an AG multipoint system. Its painfully slow trying to get up any sort of hill with the LPG on, but as soon as you flick it over onto petrol its off like someone put a rocket up its butt! It looks like its not set up right so I'm gonna have to have someone check that aswell.
4) Looks like the alternator might be on its way out as the dash lights and heater fan pulse. I can sort that
5) Can't put the code into the radio cos the screen is messed up. So have no tunes. From what I've read its not straight forward putting a new head unit in to a Hardon Karmen system?
6)Its had a coilover kit already put on, how much would it cost me to put it back to air?

And I think thats it for now. Probably a few more bits I've forgotten.
Any advice welcome. Thanks all!

Oops forgot to say its a 1998 4.6 Ltd.

Hi mate and welcome to the world of the P38

On the LPG gas I would 1st look at the filters and see if they are drity. If so you will need to get new ones, They will be in the reduiser and one in the gas line that feeds the gas to the injecters if its a Sequential Injection Systems. Also have a look at the main gas feed and see if all is ok.
All the best and welcome.

cheers. never had LPG before, so I'm gonna have to start getting familiar. Any other suggestions or ideas?

mightywolf said:

5) Can't put the code into the radio cos the screen is messed up. So have no tunes. From what I've read its not straight forward putting a new head unit in to a Hardon Karmen system?

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No, but you can make it straightforward or I can make it straightforward for you... see this thread:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/h...-definitive-how-adaptor-harnesses-181273.html

Then PM me and I will send you a link to my definitive guide.

The cost of putting the EAS back will depend on how much of the system is still there. If the EAS box is there with the valve block and compressor, about £270 for the airsprings, then a compressor overhaul say £30 plus any other faulty bits like height sensors or valve bloc "O" rings that might need to be replaced. you will also need the EAS software and Cable to read and clear any faults.

by eck that'll have to wait then!!

mightywolf said:

cheers. never had LPG before, so I'm gonna have to start getting familiar. Any other suggestions or ideas?

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Hi mate have a look on LPG Discussion Forum • Index page its a lot like this site.
Hope this helps

yeah cheers I found that site searching today. I took my car to two LPG servicers today and they both said the same thing......whoever fit the LPG system was a total cowboy!!
So for now I'm just running on petrol, but I won't be able to keep it up for long!!
And now its a bit rough at idle on petrol and its started an intermittent tapping.
So I cleaned the MAF and idle control valve and it seems a little better but not brilliant. And I suspect the tapping is a lifter. When I checked the oil it was very very black and very low so I just toppped it up with fresh oil till I can do an oil and filter change tomorrow and thats when the tapping started. Probably loosed a bit of gunk up. I'm gonna do an oil change with cheap oil every couple of weeks to ty and shift the muck.
And I'm off to get the car plugged in tmoz and have the codes checked and ecu reset. Hopefully no nasty surprises!

oh and I'm suspecting a manifold leak aswell from the strong fumes coming off the engine!! And I changed all the plugs and leads aswell today and the old plugs were so sooty I could have drawn a picture with em!! So it also looks like its running too rich.......don't know what to do about that though?

Lambda sensors... And they ain't cheap either... LR decided to use the expensive ones!!

If you have a multimeter, check the voltage between pins 24 & 25 (IIRC) on the EFI ECU (blue wires) and ground. They should show a voltage somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0v when running.

Standing by to be corrected, as I'm on my phone and don't have the exact info to hand...

Datatek said:

The cost of putting the EAS back will depend on how much of the system is still there. If the EAS box is there with the valve block and compressor, about £270 for the airsprings, then a compressor overhaul say £30 plus any other faulty bits like height sensors or valve bloc "O" rings that might need to be replaced. you will also need the EAS software and Cable to read and clear any faults.

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Unfortunately most people who fit the coil kits sell everything they can to cover the costs of the conversion. A mix of new and used parts, I was looking at the thick end of 1k to convert back to air. Probably cheaper to buy a none runner take what is needed and sell the rest.

Bix said:

Unfortunately most people who fit the coil kits sell everything they can to cover the costs of the conversion. A mix of new and used parts, I was looking at the thick end of 1k to convert back to air. Probably cheaper to buy a none runner take what is needed and sell the rest.

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Hmm, I picked up a complete EAS box minus compressor for £50 and a compressor for £30. Overhauling the 2 cost about £40 from memory, so £120 plus £270 for airsprings, total £390. The sensors are most likely still there.
Should be easily doable for less than £500

Somewhat less than I got, but I assumed everything was missing, so chucked in 4 sensors too. £500 wouldn't be too bad to put air back in.

Ok here's an update.
Engine flush, oil change, oil filter change, air filter change all done. New plugs and leads.
Now need two front abs sensors. One side has had a new sensor fitted but its still coming up as faulty. And I need two lambda sensors.
Everywhere I look for the lambda sensors they seem to do two different ones that "fit" my vehicle and look exactly the same but the price differs by £20 or so each. Does anyone know the difference?

looks like its the plug that differs? But if everything else is the same surely it makes sense to get the cheaper one and just splice it to the old connector??