what to use to make oil "sticky"??

well its high time i reapplied the winter protection to the fleet...now i always redo atleast each year..but i have given up with waxoly,(cos its crap now..as my 4 door told me..bugger..)

me 2 door is totally rot free and currently protected with zinc paint/chassis paint and dimitrol anti rust wax..but i now wish to totally coat the lot again (and again etc)with engine oil .(show me a rusty front half of chassis on a oily eaky landy) .(i change my oil every 3k,so it seems a good use for the wate oil..and besides it wont take long)

so i have gone out ,bought a pump up water sprayer thingy with long extension(just right for getting in the chassis/sills holes and squirting away..)

but..oil will just run off,it wont "stick" say like how m/c chain lub does (goes on liquid,very quickly turns to sticky not fling off stuff)..so what to mix with the oil to make it go "sticky"??

so far though of adding abit of 2k laquar and hardener and seeing what happens..any thoughts of your own??thanks..

Oil is designed not to be sticky, hence why its coming off. Based on this, it seems to me that using oil to protect from rust isn't such a great idea after all. I'd be going for something more suitable, plenty of alternatives out there eg browing the pages of Classic car restoration, Kit Cars & motorcycle restoration tools and equipment etc?

they used to make it thinner with parrifn to spray it, not thicker. just use an underseal gun on an airline and keep piling it on!

Or hammerite then waxoyl

i used expoxy then stone chip

no fun to clean it first though, wire brush on a drill and grinder, whole chassis and underside

..ok....one miss understands...

i want it to be thin to spray,but then go sticky...(once sprayed..)

re hammerite then waxoil...dont be silly....again no good..(internal rust proofing i am after..).oil is still best..better than anything else...BUT it does have to be reapplied quite often...


i have tried most things...hammerite..waxoly..dimitrol..etc.etc..and still oil or grease comes out best...but its getting it to stay put.(grease excepted)..maybe i will try out m/c chain lube...i have a m/c thats been out side in the rain for years not being used...chain has no rust...it was always welll coated..maybe time to try it out in sills..hmmmmm

ITS ONLY for the inside of sills and chassis i am after sorting...the rest gets cleaned and repainted with heavy good quality zinc paint once a year..(then coated)..no rust there...but i have spent sooooooooooo much time sorting this 72 rangie that i want NO rust to appear.none.ziluch.

i have become very dispontent with waxoly...i used to swear by it,you could see it reacting with the rust and killing it...it would last for ages...but it seems not now..i have lost a car to tin worm due to it..looked good from outside,but peal off and holes..pooh...properly prepared too...seems to be not as good...and besides i have lots of good cleanish oil to use..(lpg motor)

so please rather than comments on dont bother..(though good intensioned and hense appricated..) please how to make engine oil go "sticky" once applied...will try mixing with hardener and laquer tomorrow...you never know..

or maybe with thinnersand grease..the thinners to thin the grease out..thinners then evaporates and grease thickens the oil??again who knows..will see..

zen said:

..ok....one miss understands...

i want it to be thin to spray,but then go sticky...(once sprayed..)

re hammerite then waxoil...dont be silly....again no good..(internal rust proofing i am after..).oil is still best..better than anything else...BUT it does have to be reapplied quite often...


i have tried most things...hammerite..waxoly..dimitrol..etc.etc..and still oil or grease comes out best...but its getting it to stay put.(grease excepted)..maybe i will try out m/c chain lube...

ITS ONLY for the inside of sills and chassis i am after sorting...the rest gets cleaned and repainted with heavy good quality zinc paint once a year..(then coated)..no rust there...but i have spent sooooooooooo much time sorting this 72 rangie that i want NO rust to appear.none.ziluch.

i have become very dispontent with waxoly...i used to swear by it,you could see it reacting with the rust and killing it...it would last for ages...but it seems not now..i have lost a car to tin worm due to it..looked good from outside,but peal off and holes..pooh...properly prepared too...seems to be not as good...and besides i have lots of good cleanish oil to use..(lpg motor)

so please rather than comments on dont bother..(though good intensioned and hense appricated..) please how to make engine oil go "sticky" once applied...will try mixing with hardener and laquer tomorrow...you never know..

or maybe with thinnersand grease..the thinners to thin the grease out..thinners then evaporates and grease thickens the oil??again who knows..will see..

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the nature of the composition and additives in engine oil mean you will not be able to make it 'go sticky' its designed (the oil companies spend millions developing the oils) to stay stable at extreme heat (nearly to flashpoint), one of my customers treats his recovery vehicle with waxoyl thinned (with thinners) and then injects it at pressure down the chassis the chassis on his 1970s bedford is still solid, the cab has rusted through for best results heat the entire vehicle to drive off moisture then inject while it is still hot

linseed oil? Sorry more use to wood than metal plus it aint cheap but it might hold it all together. Or how about not cleaning the chassis first: oily muddy? Obviously not good for the one you have spent hours on.

Shame about what you have said I have just spent £18 on a can of waxoyl and was going to give it a go tomorrow afternoon.

Jerseyp38 said:

Shame about what you have said I have just spent £18 on a can of waxoyl and was going to give it a go tomorrow afternoon.

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nowt wrong with Waxoyl, tis far far better than spraying carcinogenic used oil all over the place

peeps just moan when it doesn't stick to the mud, oil and other assorted crap they can't be arsed to clean off before applying

I used mw cavity wax areolsols on all the internals on my 1990 classic, seems ok so far!

Sean said:

nowt wrong with Waxoyl, tis far far better than spraying carcinogenic used oil all over the place

peeps just moan when it doesn't stick to the mud, oil and other assorted crap they can't be arsed to clean off before applying

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you could eat your dinner off the underside of mine.i even wash the exhaust hen cleaning the car..sad..yes,but its a lovely stainless one,might as well have it gleam..(one day i will get a life..one day...)..and re carcinogenic used oil...you think waxoly is good for you??both drip off when being applied..

anyway...i aint gonna use waxoly..dont like it..used to,but not any more...it covers and hides the rust..too easy to think its doing its job when it ain't..with oil one knows one has to reapply to keep it "working",so one reapplies...every oil change in fact..but how to make it sticky..yes i agree the oil companies spend squillions on develpement,but they are not taking into account deliberate messing with it...so i am sure i can find a solution...time will tell..

Used engine oil is Acidic......

lowfat said:

Used engine oil is Acidic......

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Even so, I'll bet your chassis wont rot if its covered in old oil and grit off the road. I once pulled a Mini out of some woods where it had been for twenty years, the body was so rotten that it crumbled when you pushed on it. The only part that was like new was the tunnel behind the engine which was covered in old engine oil and road grime.

calnt you spray expanding foam into the chassie holes, not a lot can get passed that sucker.

zen said:

you could eat your dinner off the underside of mine.i even wash the exhaust hen cleaning the car..sad..yes,but its a lovely stainless one,might as well have it gleam..(one day i will get a life..one day...)..and re carcinogenic used oil...you think waxoly is good for you??both drip off when being applied..

anyway...i aint gonna use waxoly..dont like it..used to,but not any more...it covers and hides the rust..too easy to think its doing its job when it ain't..with oil one knows one has to reapply to keep it "working",so one reapplies...every oil change in fact..but how to make it sticky..yes i agree the oil companies spend squillions on develpement,but they are not taking into account deliberate messing with it...so i am sure i can find a solution...time will tell..

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they do however take into account bumbling fools that add things like slik 50 to compensate for a poorly maintained engine...... i have a range rover chassis sitting on my driveway its in perfect order........ the body rotted off of it just like yours will...... its not the chassis that you should be worried about....

Chain saw chain oil is very sticky and quite cheap. Designed to stay put on the chain so ought to stay put on your chassis.

interesting...

re my body falling apart...thats why i want to squirt it in the sills etc too...

also read the bit about prep i did ..but i agree it will fall apart..but not yet if i have anything to do with it..