What to Buy? Range Rover for Under £5000

gold rover · Apr 18, 2018

Oldpilot said:
I had a long wheelbase Land Rover 35 years ago and vowed to never have one again. OK as a truck for local work but awful to drive long distance.
The RR does the towing and 4 wheel stuff with comfort.
I have had three over the years. A two door with vinyl seats and droopy doors,a Vogue and the last a P38 which lasted me 10 years.

I want a diesel for reliability.

Looking at ebay there appear to be a lot of 322's being 'sold for a friend' or being in someone ownership for a short time. I get the impression a lot are bought at car auctions and then sold on.

The background in the pictures and text tell a lot about the vendor.
I hate the term fully loaded.

My other thought is to try a Volvo V90.

So is the 322 a real gamble?

Without pushing the point, I think my post #10 gives a good explanation of quick owner changes. As well as #19 which gives a basic idea of what to look for in the paper work.
Any older car is a gamble, the question is 'will you have somewhere to turn for help when it breaks down?' I am a big Volvo fan. I've had 3 series, 2 series, 7 series, 8 series and C70 convertible. As such, I've been a member of the VOC and VOC forum, and trust me, you will not get a fraction of the knowledge, advice, or even offers of help, from them, that you get here. To me the community is an important part of the decision when buying an old car.

Grrrrrr · Apr 19, 2018

Oldpilot said:
My other thought is to try a Volvo V90.

Volvo do some nice vehicles, some of which had LPG factory fitted. Worth thinking about. XC90 very reliable - or at least my friend's has been.

Don't forget the Disco either. Although beware the cam belt and FIP belt on the diesel. And the twin turbo nightmare. And the air suspension pump on the early D3s.

gstuart · Apr 19, 2018

Grrrrrr said:
Volvo do some nice vehicles, some of which had LPG factory fitted. Worth thinking about. XC90 very reliable - or at least my friend's has been.

Don't forget the Disco either. Although beware the cam belt and FIP belt on the diesel. And the twin turbo nightmare. And the air suspension pump on the early D3s.

not forgetting the dreaded oil pump casing,

don’t know if it’s just me but seen more sport and D3 members joining , alas myths still going around thinking the body has to come off for that rear fuel belt

May i ask do u think the P38 s and L322 are holding there money

Henry_b · Apr 19, 2018

L322 seem to hold the gold best..

As for P38's good ones seem to demand a small premium

Whereas crap one's you can have for a few hundred quid..

gstuart · Apr 19, 2018

Henry_b said:
L322 seem to hold the gold best..

As for P38's good ones seem to demand a small premium

Whereas crap one's you can have for a few hundred quid..

is it the-case with the P38 demanding a premium due to cheaper ins, tax over the L322

alas as a comparison for a half decent D3 , TDV6, auto, 2006 are going for around £7-8k , base are ins group 33

seen a good few online going for peanuts and the word money pit springs to mind , lol

Henry_b · Apr 19, 2018

gstuart said:
is it the-case with the P38 demanding a premium due to cheaper ins, tax over the L322

alas as a comparison for a half decent D3 , base model auto 2006 are going for around £7-8k , there ins group 33

There are many benefits to the P38 compared to the L322

cheaper parts

cheaper insurance

Cheaper Tax

Simpler to fix wave a socket set and a good Code reader at it and you'll be ok

etc etc

Don't get me wrong the L322 is great but way too complicated for me..

Grrrrrr · Apr 20, 2018

Much as I prefer the ride of the later cars the ease with which the P38 can be fixed (with some guidance from here) is a winner. The price of parts of cheap in comparison too.

Get the RF receiver and the EAS sorted, keep the fluids changed regularly and the P38 is surprisingly reliable.

On the D4 it is those twin turbos at the back that worry me.

gstuart · Apr 20, 2018

Grrrrrr said:
Much as I prefer the ride of the later cars the ease with which the P38 can be fixed (with some guidance from here) is a winner. The price of parts of cheap in comparison too.

Get the RF receiver and the EAS sorted, keep the fluids changed regularly and the P38 is surprisingly reliable.

On the D4 it is those twin turbos at the back that worry me.

funny u should say that about the turbos, on mine thankfully i’ve only got the one turbo, however it has on occasion gone into limp mode, either a sticking actuator arm, split hose or the variable vanes are full of carbon causing the overboost error

if that’s the case will be then replacing the turbo, know it will be a job from hell but refuse to even consider the 2.5k that land rover want , plus would do it with the body on

interestingly i’ve seen u can buy just the cartridge and variable vane assembly plate , but don’t have the knowledge if the turbo was removed it it work by replacing the items

will know more when i start removing panels etc to gain access and then go from there

What to Buy? Range Rover for Under £5000

gold rover

Well-Known Member

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

gstuart

D3 Grandad

Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

gstuart

D3 Grandad

Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

gstuart

D3 Grandad

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