what is this with heatsink?

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toadfish

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82
photos attached.
Found water dripping on it, so dried it and applied electrical grease and filled hole above it to stop more drips, but what is this part, please?
Thanks
 

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It's a Dim-Dip resistor part of your lighting circuit, if u don't wish to have this facility just pull apart the plug below it.

EDIT - ignore the question I posed below. I have found out what dim-dip is and I will indeed disconnect the resistor now you have shown me the light (pun intended of course) because I have bought some really cool daylight running lights from www.newboatgear.co.uk (yeah, I go boating aswell as offroading - hopefully not at the same time) and with the drl LEDs on, I can disconnect the dim-dip to save my old alternator from packing up entirely.
Many thanks.

Why would a person not wish to have it though?

I know what a resistor is and usually they are important in a circuit, but I'm not sure what you mean by "Dim-Dip", so not sure what this does and therefore can't decide whether I need it or not.

Sorry to sound so thick, but what does it do exactly?
Cheers
 
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When the side lights are on and the engine is running the dip beam is also on, but at low power a lot lower than 50%, switch to dip or main and the lights are normal.

I unplugged the system as I run with LED sidelight bulbs and it look a bit naff with both the yellowish dim-dip on and the bright led.

Why have a dim, as always the answer is on the web, lots this is only some of it.

The dim-dip systems were not intended for daytime use as Daylight Running Lamps DRLs. Rather, they operated if the engine was running and the driver switched on the parking lamps (called "sidelights" in the UK). Dim-dip was intended to provide a night time "town beam" with intensity between that of the parking lamps commonly used at the time by British drivers in city traffic after dark, and dipped (low) beams; the former were considered insufficiently intense to provide improved conspicuity in conditions requiring it, while the latter were considered too glaring for safe use in built-up areas. The UK was the only country to require such dim-dip systems, though vehicles so equipped were sold in other Commonwealth countries with left-hand traffic.

In 1988, the European Commission successfully prosecuted the UK government in the European Court of Justice, arguing that the UK requirement for dim-dip was illegal under EC directives prohibiting member states from enacting vehicle lighting requirements not contained in pan-European EC directives. As a result, the UK requirement for dim-dip was quashed.

Nevertheless, dim-dip systems remain permitted, and while such systems are not presently as common as they once were, dim-dip functionality was fitted on many new cars well into the 1990s.
 
Thanks again.

I am going to disconnect for the same reason.

The drls I have are a warm white (the website I bought them from installed Nichia LEDs for me which are better than Cree some say) and they look great but when the dim-dips come on they look like old yellow teeth, and naff, just as you say.

Thanks a lot for the help. Would never have figured out the thing was a resistor without you.

Cheers
 
But DRLs should be off when normal lighting is on, the kit to control DRLs senses the engine is running but also has a feed from the side light circuit.

I thinking of fitting them.. as I have nothing better to do to my disco :D

You are right of course about drls going off when lights come on and someone showed me a place on the web showing the legal info - blooming miles long document.

BUT I have seen so many cars with drls on and headlights including a new mercedes the other day that I'm just taking power from the side lights and hope I never get pulled up on it.

I wouldn't know how to wire them to do the proper thing and I'm not into buying kits; expensive and prefer to DIY if I can.

I can recommend New Boat Gear

They sent me 10w 12V LEDs that are so bright it gave me arc eye, so I tilted them downwards. They supply resistors if required. Constant voltage and constant current is very important as battery will fluctuate from 12.7V to 14.5V

They explained all this to me.

I also bought some 3.3V LEDs from them and they simply had a resistor in series to stop them blowing- look really cool, draw no current and totally weather proof - I've had them on my other car for a year through snow, wind, rain etc and actually look better than car's proper headlights - I only bought 2 and positioned them low down near the fog lights.

The website is a bit clunky but an email gets a good response from them and what I bought wasn't even shown on their website.

Will post some disco photos when fitted them and try to get some photos of my car meanwhile - at MOT station today - fingers crossed.
 
BUT I have seen so many cars with drls on and headlights including a new mercedes the other day that I'm just taking power from the side lights and hope I never get pulled up on it.

Just be careful as those DRL's get dimmer when the lights come one, acting as additional side lights not DRL's ;)
 
Just be careful as those DRL's get dimmer when the lights come one, acting as additional side lights not DRL's ;)

Yes, you are quite right.

Luckily the guys I bought LEDs from sold me a constant current and voltage driver for £10.

No matter what happens elsewhere on vehicle, the 12.7 volts is 'changed' to 3.3V and 30mA with no variation.

As I said most impressed with their customer service - I don't think the constant current driver is even on their website, but they replied to my email and asked if I wanted such and such and gave me wiring diagrams and all.
 
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