What have you done to your Freelander today

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Looks like we are seeing the first hint of winter here next week - changed from 18" Sport summer wheels to 16" winter wheels with studded winter tyres.
 
Must be something about this time of year that sees our cars fight us...

...My beemer had an advisory on it's MOT last year for slight play on lower X/S/F balljoint. The X is important. Not a problem, I mot'd it a couple of days before going away on a trip offshore, followed by another long deployment just after Christmas, come March, I order N/S/F balljoint and fit it, and it was an easy job. When checking the MOT date I seen the advisory was O/S/F lower balljoint, cock. So I order a new one, and book a test, went to fit it last night, broke one ball joint splitter, t'other wouldn't fit, hammering a fork into the hoor with a with a chest infection just about finished me, so I had to phone a mate to ask for help. While I had it up in the air, with undertrays removed to get room to extricate the wishbone bolt, I noticed a power steering fluid leak from the input shaft of the rack, that's a £1,300 rack or £350 exchange, and a front subframe off job. I also noticed a slight oil leek, or evidence of it, that will need investigating later. I also noticed the front tyres, which are 3 year older than the back ones, while still having about ~3-4mm tread, are showing cracking between the treads, that'll be £400 the pair to get the Michelins I like. Probably looking at a four-figure-fiasco, and that's me doing the work, and I've still the completely intermittent stability control issue to sort out. And then the 20 year old Freelander MOT's days before Christmas, wish me luck.
There is something to be said for driven newer cars. Preferably NOT German :(
 
What's the pipe for?
It's an increased diameter outlet for a large pond overflow to get it to run into an adjacent gully to the river rather than towards the house !

Also scooped about 80 tonnes of silt out of pond and remade outlet to allow more water storage in flash flood situations.
 
Today I replaced the lower boost hose for the second time this year.
The one I fitted in June had rubbed against the AC compressor pulley, making a hole.
20221112_133242.jpg
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I'm not sure how, but it seems the plastic retainer wasn't secured to the front of the vehicle, which allowed the hose to come in contact with the AC pulley. I'm sure I would have put the bolt back in, but we all have off day's I guess. :oops:

The front bumper needs removing before any boost hose shenanigans can start.
It takes about 30 minutes to remove the bumper, although it took a bit longer as I recorded video for YT while doing it.
20221112_144028.jpg


Once the bumper is off, I could get to the boost hose, which is a bit of a pain, but when I fitted it in June, I'd made sure all the hose clips were easy to get at.
Once the short upper hose is released from the throttle body, the whole lot is maneuvered through the opening at the bottom of the cooler pack.
The damaged hose was removed from the link pipe, and the plastic retainer was swapped over.
20221112_144556.jpg


The whole assembly is then wiggled back into position, and the short hose is connected back to the TB to aid alignment.
The other end was then pushed onto the intercooler, and the clip tightened.
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I then adjusted the position of the new hose in relation to the plastic pipe to ensure it was correct and tightened the hose clip. This time I made sure to fit a screw to the plastic retainer to prevent a repeat holing incident.
20221112_145810.jpg

You can see the new Torx screw in place here.
The rest was just putting the bumper and associated components back into place.
The new blue silicone hose is just visible from the engine bay now, whereas before it was impossible to identify from above.
20221112_145755.jpg

To finish off, I started the engine and sprayed a liberal amount of brake cleaner on the drive belt and pulleys, just to ensure that any oil which got on there from the boost hose will be removed.
 
Today I replaced the lower boost hose for the second time this year.
The one I fitted in June had rubbed against the AC compressor pulley, making a hole. View attachment 278132 View attachment 278133

I'm not sure how, but it seems the plastic retainer wasn't secured to the front of the vehicle, which allowed the hose to come in contact with the AC pulley. I'm sure I would have put the bolt back in, but we all have off day's I guess. :oops:

The front bumper needs removing before any boost hose shenanigans can start.
It takes about 30 minutes to remove the bumper, although it took a bit longer as I recorded video for YT while doing it.
View attachment 278138

Once the bumper is off, I could get to the boost hose, which is a bit of a pain, but when I fitted it in June, I'd made sure all the hose clips were easy to get at.
Once the short upper hose is released from the throttle body, the whole lot is maneuvered through the opening at the bottom of the cooler pack.
The damaged hose was removed from the link pipe, and the plastic retainer was swapped over.View attachment 278143

The whole assembly is then wiggled back into position, and the short hose is connected back to the TB to aid alignment.
The other end was then pushed onto the intercooler, and the clip tightened.
View attachment 278144

I then adjusted the position of the new hose in relation to the plastic pipe to ensure it was correct and tightened the hose clip. This time I made sure to fit a screw to the plastic retainer to prevent a repeat holing incident.
View attachment 278145
You can see the new Torx screw in place here.
The rest was just putting the bumper and associated components back into place.
The new blue silicone hose is just visible from the engine bay now, whereas before it was impossible to identify from above.
View attachment 278146
To finish off, I started the engine and sprayed a liberal amount of brake cleaner on the drive belt and pulleys, just to ensure that any oil which got on there from the boost hose will be removed.
Look forward to the vid. :)
 
Pulled the tailgate handle off, as you do :rolleyes:
Pretty sure tailgate handles are service items on hippos, like door sills and body cross members are on discos. Usually a but of botchery can fix the tailgate handle, a little tub of devcon epoxy, some M6 coach / roofing bolts, and a bit of imagination can remedy them.

The other place they can fail is the metal in the tailgate door skin that the handle can corrode, in which case you're looking at penny washers or making a big enough plate to go inside the door skin, with holes for the bolts to go through so the nut grips the washer, which grips the plate, which gets squeezed onto solid metal elsewhere in the vehicle.

The good thing is they are an electric release mechanism, so the handle only holds a microswitch, rather than mechanical linkages, which means that you can get away with being a centimetre or two off of the original placement without compromising the mechanism.
 
Last weekend we were in the Lake District where it pissed down and we found ourselves wading on some of the 'B' roads.
This weekend we were up in Aberdeenshire to scatter my brother-in-law's ashes . . . in a storm . . . in the pissing rain. (Brother-in-law now covers most of Aberdeenshire, so if you feel a bit of grit on your eye be respectful, please).
 
Replaced the drop links, and the track rod bushes. Removing the air filter housing gave plenty of room to remove the wonder why E18 bolts from above.
DAB-002's pressed in nice enough, found a good size collar, fairy liquid, fitted a nut & bolt and gave them a twist as I pressed them in.
upload_2022-11-22_18-13-22.png
 
Detected a new unwanted noise today. It sounds like a dry bearing on a pulley or idler wheel. Investigations to take place in due course but hopefully it'll last until the new year at least.
 
So disaster today! I'm having a bit of difficulty in my personal life at the moment and am not really focused properly. I've just put 200ml of brake fluid in the engine! Supposed to be doing the school run at 3pm.
 
So disaster today! I'm having a bit of difficulty in my personal life at the moment and am not really focused properly. I've just put 200ml of brake fluid in the engine! Supposed to be doing the school run at 3pm.

I'm sorry to hear that. :(

You'll need to get the brake fluid out, as it'll strip the lubrication properties from the oil.
 
I'm sorry to hear that. :(

You'll need to get the brake fluid out, as it'll strip the lubrication properties from the oil.
Yeah. I've not run the engine so hopefully its making it's way down to the sump now without mixing too much. I'll be doing a change here in the work car park shortly after I've got someone to get me some more oil. I guess I should change it again in a few days? Should I do a flush too in a few days before another change?
 
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Yeah. I've not run the engine so hopefully its making it's way down to the sump now without mixing too much. I'll be doing a change here in the work car park shortly after I've got someone to get me some more oil. I guess I should change it again in a few days? Should I do a flush too in a few days before another change?
It should be ok to just drain it, then refill with fresh.
Don't worry about flushing it, dilution will be ok.
It would be wise to do the next oil change a bit sooner though, as any remaining brake fluid will shorten the oil life.
 
It should be ok to just drain it, then refill with fresh.
Don't worry about flushing it, dilution will be ok.
It would be wise to do the next oil change a bit sooner though, as any remaining brake fluid will shorten the oil life.
I've drained it in the car park outside my office, and some fluid came out before the oil as I removed the sump plug so it obviously doesn't mix easily. I've put a bit of oil through which brought out a little more but it doesn't feel like the amount I put in has come out so I'll run it until the weekend then do a full oil and filter change then. Hopefully no damage will ensue. An internet search reveals the possibility of horrors. :eek:
 
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